Need Single Stage Advice/Warning

[wifpd4]

Today, I looked at at white (probably single stage), 1980 Mercedes Benz 300 SD and the owner indicated it is all original paint, however besides being heavily oxidized and dull looking it also has crazing or cracking visible in several areas. I'm aware I'll be able to do nothing about the crazing and advised the owner we may only be able to brighten the white up a little.

I've got the usual line up of products: SwirlX, Ultimate Compound, D300, M105, M205 and M83. In addition to recent acquisitions of samples of M06 and Paint Reconditioning Creme. Only a little bit of M07 and plenty of Ultimate Polish.

What advice, or more so warnings, would you give me before I start with a test area. The crazing has me concerned. I envision the "parts of the puzzle" falling out with the vibrations of a buffer.

Thanks,

[davey g-force]

I haven't had personal experience with crazed paint, but I doubt the pieces would fall out with a DA.

Still, I'd suggest going easy. Slow down the speed, ease up a bit on the the downward pressure and check your progress regularly.

If it is indeed SS paint, M83 maight be a good starting point. Do you have M80?

[Tuck91]

I have seen this on old gelcoat a lot actually.

[BillyJack]

I have some areas of my El Camino that are crazed like that. Rule #1 is NO AGGRESSIVE POWER POLISHING in those areas. All you'll do is make it worse by any application of heat. I'll clay first, followed by multiple apps of hand-applied M07 and any polishing will be done by hand. Keep in mind that any dried product residue will settle in the cracks and be difficult to remove, so choose your products and processes accordingly. Products that you wipe or rub until dry work better than products that you allow to haze before removal. Finish up with a light application of a spray wax such as Optimum, DG Aquawax or UQW. Nothing shy of a repaint can fix it, so just try to make those areas somewhat acceptable by getting them clean with a bit of gloss. Then do your best work on the non-infected areas.

Bill

[wifpd4]

Davey, I misspoke, I double checked I have M80 not M83. I bought it for a car with fresh paint.

Nick, there are areas of rust pockets down low too, enhanced by salt no doubt.

Bill, thanks for the pointers. Is working in M07 with a bonnet a no-no or is a 7" finishing pad better? I usually don't work by hand, nor with single stage.

[CreamPuff]

I agree with the others...clay the car using the detailing clay...but try your best to avoid that area using any power tools. #7 may be applied by hand or with a foam applicator, then wipe with a micro fiber. Don't let the product dry.

M80 is great for single stage...tons of oils in it.

[BillyJack]

Davey, I misspoke, I double checked I have M80 not M83. I bought it for a car with fresh paint.

Nick, there are areas of rust pockets down low too, enhanced by salt no doubt.

Bill, thanks for the pointers. Is working in M07 with a bonnet a no-no or is a 7" finishing pad better? I usually don't work by hand, nor with single stage.

I prefer to use M07 by hand, using a MF folded to a 4X8" pad and a fair amount of pressure. I've tried both a bonnet and pad over the years and have been more satisfied with hand application. If you want to try either, I'll caution you to use product sparingly, at a very slow speed and work it thoroughly into the finish. M07 has a tendency when over-applied by machine to leave caked-up spots on the paint which are a real PIA to remove, requiring considerable rubbing. The old adage of "like removes like" doesn't seem to be effective with heavy build-up of M07; It just continues to accumulate.
I agree with the use of M80 also. Any areas that need severe correction may need a stronger product, but follow it with M80. I have no experience with old M-B paint, but M80 always amazes me on SS paint. You can use as aggressive of a pad as you feel the area needs, up to and including wool.

Bill