Frustrated, need advice re:UC

[sleepy weasel]

Let's see, where to begin. Without any knowledge, I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and a microfiber applicator and put scratches in my clear coat. So I came here seeking knowledge and a repair solution. Armed with UC and some foam applicators and reading and getting tips regarding technique, I got to work. The scratches are for the most part gone, but now I have in places what appears to be a mottled appearance in sunlight. Almost scalloped looking. I was very self-conscious of using fingertip pressure, and may have over compensated, as I think I perhaps was using too much pressure using the heel of the palm of my hand. Also I see some swirls replacing the scratches I was trying to fix. I suppose I can live with those I guess. I am frustrated as I tried to really learn and use correct technique. Is this new problem easier to correct than the scratches? Should I just give up and perhaps seek professional help (I feel like I am spinning my wheels and not getting anywhere, and doing more damage). I have put a fair amount of time and effort in, and feel very defeated by my lack of results.

[davey g-force]

It sounds like the UC did a good job of removing your initial scratches but caused some marring of its own. UC is quite aggressive and your paint may be on the soft side.

No big deal, you should be able to correct that marring with a less aggressive product such as SwirlX.

[ffboy]

SwirlX will is a lot gentler on paint, with the right technique, you will be able to restore the shine and clarity of your paint. Again, before going at the entire car, you'd want to do a test spot for you to see and establish the correct pressure, technique and product for your car to be on the safe side. I would even try out ColorX first to see if it's sufficient inremoving the marring left by the UC. If not, swirlX followed by Ultimate polish to really refine the finish.

[sleepy weasel]

Ok, I suppose I will try the SwirlX next, though to be honest, it seems like marks left by a more aggressive product would require an equally aggressive product to remove them, not a less aggressive product. I have serious doubts about my ability to correct any of this, at least not without leaving some new defect, as I have attempted to be as precise as can be with my technique and have so far had less than stellar results. And this process is considerably time consuming and hard on the arm. Would a DA improve my chance of a satisfactory result? Where can one of these be acquired? I assume a DA would eliminate (or at least greatly reduce) pressure related marring issues?

[ffboy]

DA would give better results and a lot faster and easier, and you can get more even results. That said, even if you use a DA, you still have to do a test spot since we're talking compounds, cleaners, polishes and how the paint may react to these products as well as the technique used. You can buy them from meguiars (g110/220v2), autogeek.net, autopia, and other websites as well.

As for the use of an equally aggressive product to remove defects or marrs left by the ultimate compound, I guess you can try using it again, but at the risk of inducing even more marring or marks on the paint. If you really want to, you can try on a small incospicuous area UC again but use a lot less pressure/product and work it in until it goes clear, then check if the results you got are better. If not, you can still try out SwirlX

[BillE]

About using 'the same aggressiveness', in a word, NO!

Think along these lines...when you are sanding a piece of wood, you start with say 120, then go to a less and less aggressive paper to get the surface smooth.

Make sense?

Bill

[sleepy weasel]

Thank you for your replies. I think I understand about the less aggressive compound being required. The original scratches were visible in a well-lit garage which is where I am working. After the initial application of UC, the finish appeared very clean in the garage. Outdoors in direct sunlight is where the mottled marring appeared, though it is undetectable except in absolutely direct sunlight. So I am assuming these defects are milder than the more easily detectable scratches. So a less aggressive compound should further refine the finish? I think I will be ordering a DA online this weekend, as it seems like it will make the job easier and provide better results. And my arm gets tired, which I think negatively effects my technique. I am still worried about pressure application, and I struggle with the correct amount of compound to use, and how long I should be applying before I wipe. I do not want to apply until dry, but I think I may wipe too early. There is a point where the compound turns kind of clear, and though it is still wet, sometimes I think because it is not super visible it has gone dry. So I have probably been using too much compound. I have gone through an entire bottle and I have not finished the entire car.

[ffboy]

It's still a lot better with a DA, as for pressure application with a DA, it usually slows down a bit when too much pressure is applied. And yes, using up 1 bottle for only a car is too much. Yes, a milder compound/cleaner to refine the finish and sometimes any imperfections shown will only be seen in sunlight and long after the compounding has been finished. Even pros do it, aggressive ones first to remove deeper scratches or even sanding marks, then a less aggressive one to remove the initial compound marks to make the paint shinier and have more clarity.

[BillE]

When working by hand, you sure don't have to try and do the whole thing in one day. Split the vehicle in to different areas/sections. Your body will thank you.

Also, by doing it in sections, you will be more conscious of what you are doing instead of thinking, "I'm really getting tired."

That said, once you get into using 'more power', you will be HOOKED!

Bill

[Please Wash Me Detailing]

UC is fine. Sounds like it's your technique. I would recommend a DA Polisher.