DMFA & UC question

[A3*]

[COLOR=#222222][FONT=Verdana]Hi all,

So after a great Saturday class and Mike treating us on how the DMFA system work, I was astonished on how well it worked in correcting the deep paint scratches (see the photo's posted in the Saturday July 28 class thread). I forgot to ask in the class if it would be OK to do the following procedure:
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[A3*]

ADMIN... Please delete this posts...Thank you

[A3*]

So i guess I don't know how to make post or threads....Let me try this again....

Hi All,
So after a great Saturday class and Mike treating us to how the DAMF system work, I was astonished on how well it worked in correcting the deep paint scratches (see the photo's posted in the Saturday July 28 class thread). I forgot to ask in the class if it would be OK to do the following procedure:

• Use the DAMF D300 to correct the paint/remove scratches
• then follow up with Ultimate Compound using an LC white pad
• then follow up agan with M205 using a W9207 pad

I have some scratches that I would like to remove. They are deep enough that they will catch with your fingernail. While I know that I won't completely remove them, I would like to diminish their appearance. Oh and apparently my first technique with the G110 buffer left some light holograms on the hood that I will now need to remove (did these before the class, opps). I'm still trying to figure out how that happen. Just goes to show that practice makes perfect.

Thanks for any advice,
Greg

[wifpd4]

You might try a test area and skip the Ultimate Compound. You may not need it. If you need it okay, if you don't you've saved a step and some time.

[A3*]

Yeah thats my plan to do first, but I was always told to work progressively from coarse to finest in compounds. Maybe I was told or misinterpet that info. So I guess what I'm asking is that should I use the UC to remove what the DAMF left behind or go straight to M205 after DAMF.

[wifpd4]

Yes you want to use the least aggressive method to correct your defects. However in the same aspect that least aggressive product maybe considered "coarse" and need to be followed with something finer.

D300 may leave micro-marring and you may need a finer product to remove that micro-marring. You're already planning on using M205. Try it, if you're satisfied then you don't need Ultimate Compound. Don't create an additional step if you don't need it.

Using the least aggressive method may mean in this case you don't need D300 and Ultimate Compound solves your problem and then follow that with M205.

Only a test area will determine what works best and is the least aggressive method. (D300>>>M205) or (UC>>>M205)

[A3*]

ahhh gotcha, Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a shot and see what I come up with. Guess the only true way to tell is to go out and actually do it

[imz4n]

A 2X2 test area will answer the question.Welcome to MOL.

[A3*]

Yep that's my plan. I like to try and get my car the deepest reflection as possible. Just need to find some time to tackle the job.
Thank you for the welcome and for all of the advice this forum gives.

[wifpd4]

If you had planned on doing this anyway, forgive me for being repetitive - thoroughly wash the car and follow with a good clay-barring using a quality lubricant. Getting rid of any bonded contaminates helps obtain the goal you're after.