Which M product to use after a wash?

[Highpinesdrifter]

I have a Black Subaru that is out side all the time. I have done med. and fine compound, #9, #21, and finished with #26 paste. After every wash there is always some surface spots etc and I want to hit it with something to do minor cleaning and bring back the gloss. I was wondering if a thin coat of #26 would remove the minor contaminants. Since reading about #20 I was thinking it would do the trick. There are so many new Meguiar's products in the consumer line that folks are talking up I also thought one of them may be the answer. My original thinking was to clean very little and restore shine with out removing the previous layers of product; maybe I'm wrong and I want to remove some of the old layers. Help, with what I'm sure is an easy Question.

[h_bomm]

Maybe some Ultimate Quick Detailer would do the trick in between regular washings and a benefit to that is that it IS in the consumer line and should be available at a local store like Wal-Mart, Target, Auto Zone and such. Hope this helps! Good Luck!

[Murr1525]

Do you do that detail routine often? Sounds a little long/old fashioned perhaps.

And yeah, UQW after washes is great.

[Highpinesdrifter]

I was thinking one of the new products would be the answer. The detail routine described was the first after I acquired the car. I'm just looking for the product that will get the finish back to that perfect "just after detail" look after a wash without getting to aggressive and losing what I had; may not exist. I tried some old final finish and it didn't cut it. Then I tried a thin coat of #21; better, but still not there. I'll take your advice and get some UQW; sure can't hurt. I was even thinking #6 cleaner wax but thought I'd get a clean finish but lose the gloss. I can't help think about the old days when it was use a cleaner wax every time. I think my first 2 part system was Blue Coral, using it on solid paint, thought it was wonderful. Thanks for the help and I'll keep looking for the magic answer.

[wifpd4]

Another product to try, although a bit more expensive per vehicles completed, is Ultimate Wash and Wax Anywhere. Similar to UQW for use after a wash as you dry, but also a waterless wash. I think it leaves a great shine.

[Murr1525]

Well, just to give a little bit of an idea, if the finish looks good and no defects to fix, I might consider a detail that looks like one of these:

1. Wash: Gold Class Soap, 2 buckets, Grit Guards, good towels/mitts
2. Clay if needed: Smooth Surface Clay kit
3. ColorX
4. Wax: #26 of #21, or other favoite wax

Or for an extra step or two:

1. Wash
2. Clay if needed
3. Clean/Polish: Ultimate Polish is a good mild cleaner/polish
4. Wax
5. Wax

6. Maintain: UQW for after future washes.

As a side note, there is also the Gold Class Spray Wax. I have not used that one, but it is supposed to look very good. I know the UQW works well, and seems pretty durable, but the GCSW might be an option if you like the look of carnuba waxes.

[BillyJack]

I was thinking one of the new products would be the answer. The detail routine described was the first after I acquired the car. I'm just looking for the product that will get the finish back to that perfect "just after detail" look after a wash without getting to aggressive and losing what I had; may not exist. I tried some old final finish and it didn't cut it. Then I tried a thin coat of #21; better, but still not there. I'll take your advice and get some UQW; sure can't hurt. I was even thinking #6 cleaner wax but thought I'd get a clean finish but lose the gloss. I can't help think about the old days when it was use a cleaner wax every time. I think my first 2 part system was Blue Coral, using it on solid paint, thought it was wonderful. Thanks for the help and I'll keep looking for the magic answer.

Unfortunately, the processes and products we use on garage queens need to be tweaked a bit for daily drivers that that are exposed 24/7 to all the attacks from insects, birds, trees and road garbage. The secret of the "Blue Coral" look was the two step process, scrubbing the paint clean with step#1, then adding depth and protection with step#2. Today, we have enough products to choose from in the Meguiar's line that we can streamline the process. You're on the right track mentioning #6. Waxes with mild cleaners such as #6,#20 or even Color-X help maintain a clean, smooth finish on a DD and can always benefit from a quick topping of UQW, M26 or Gold Class to amp up the shine. Gold old A6 consumer Cleaner Wax is the product I recommend most to those who ask how I keep my DD so nice. You can apply all the "beauty" waxes you want, but unless you're willing to do a multi-step process, including clay, polish and protect, a good cleaner wax is your best return for the time and effort.

Bill

[Highpinesdrifter]

Thanks Bill, my DD lives in the foothills off I80 at 3000 ft an gets everything you can imagine dumped on it and my wife runs down to San Francisco each week. Needless to say I have to be on it all the time. I don't care how old an abused a car is I want it to look as good as it can. So, I think your advice is good for my situation. I already have M1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 21, 26, 34, 40, and a PC. I think M6 along with M26 or 21 for maintenance and every 3 or 4 months give it some clay or M2 followed by M9 and finish with 21 & 26 and then back to maintain for awhile. BTW, will #1 And #2 with a PC do what clay does and for me less time and effort.

Kris

[Murr1525]

No, the clay will grab things the foam will actually bump over.

If you do get lots of gunk on the car, you may want to look at the TRIX from Car Pro... makes a nice spray after washing for tar/break dust, etc.

[BillyJack]

BTW, will #1 And #2 with a PC do what clay does and for me less time and effort.

Kris

IMO, no. Claying is the most time-efficient process you can perform. There's no preparation needed other than a clean surface, no masking, no cleanup afterwards and no pad washing. The product and process you use at any particular time should be dictated by the needs of the finish at that time. If your objective is to rid the surface of contaminants, including airborne fallout and general road garbage, leaving it smooth and clean, ready for subsequent steps, the clay bar is the appropriate product. If you're looking to remove scratches and swirls, with a side benefit of some minor cleaning, then the appropriate compound, polish, or AIO product (including cleaner waxes) is the right move.
Many years ago, before we knew of the clay process, we'd de-tox a car with kerosene, stoddard solvent or prep-sol, then attack it with strong compounds and aggressive wool pads to clean and smooth the surface. In retrospect, thinking of all the paint we removed from those thin, fragile single-stage finishes of the day makes me cringe. We all want our vehicles to look good for a long time, whether a daily driver or garage queen and I don't think there's a better credo to follow than "Use the least aggressive product for the job"

Bill