Meguiars #20 sealant + haze?

[Gubien]

Hi all,

I have recently polished my car with megs MF system and so far, so good.
I pulled the car out in the sun afterwards to look for haze/shadows and there was absolutely NONE. (black
car).

So I let it rest for the night, and around 14 hours later i applied megs #20 sealant with a DAP900 DA.
I used speed 1(Using a brand new leftover disc from the MF system) and light to none pressure, surely just to apply and
very even coat.

Let it cure for 1 hour and wiped off with MF cloths, all was good.

However, today the car seems to have a haze from certain angles parked in the shadows and in directly sunlight, it also appears. Whats wrong? It surely looks like DA haze.

It actually seems like the pollen in the air "make the haze stand out a bit clearer". I can almost wipe an area "haze free".

As you might notice on the pictures, I tried cleaning a little area, but it seems to come back again after a while?
I actually did a totally cleanup with megs Last Touch and buffed it up with a MF cloth by hand, but it seems to be a bit "blurred".

[Shawn T.]

That is streaking from the M20 it seems. Areas where M20 was put on thicker than others are darker. Wipe it down with some quick detailer and you should be fine. However, I have found that just reapplying the M20 and making sure it is just super thin is the way to completely get rid of these marks.

[ffboy]

Aside from applying it too thick, Could allowing it to haze/cure for too long also contributed to the streaking?

[umi000]

I used speed 1(Using a brand new leftover disc from the MF system)

I'm wondering if using an MF disc (whether polishing or cutting) might have left a haze on the paint - I might be completely off base here, but I don't think you're supposed to use the MF discs to apply a non-abrasive LSP (I understand that M20 has cleaners, but not sure whether they're abrasives that are meant to cut paint; and even if they are, most likely they'll be ineffective at speed 1).

[ffboy]

Could be a possibility, since I don't think M20 is designed or compatible with the MF System. Because the D/A Microfiber system is designed to work specifically with the Microfiber Correction Compound and Finishing wax. Plus with speed 1, M20 would be barely worked into the paint and not leave that thin, spread out product. Maybe switching to the black foam finishing pad or any finishing pad and inceasing the speed to 2.5-3.5 to allow the M20 to be really worked into the paint and maximize the cleaners in it.

[Mark Kleis]

My guess is that you simply have too much M20 (ie applied it too thickly), and therefor the M20 wasn't cleanly removed.

In my experience M20 is pretty easy to work with and generally has a very quick curing time before it can be removed.

Are you familiar with the "swipe test?" If so, did you use it?

Also, I would stick to proper finishing pads just to be safe. Also make sure your microfiber being used for wax removal isn't over-saturated. Be sure to fold and turn it over frequently.

As for the fix, I would re-apply the M20 with a proper foam finishing pad VERY thinly, and remove within 5-10 minutes - checking each panel with the swipe test.

[Gubien]

Hi all, thanks for the answers.

I dont think it was applied to thick, as I first primed the pad with the sealant, and then applied 3 VERY small drops and then buffed in at speed 1 with little to no pressure, when over the areas several times, before moving to next section.

The layer left on was like the residue left when using scratch X.

I did use the swipe test and it was fine, I might guess I actually just used to little force when wiping the rest of, as the plate is kinda "thin" on the bonnet/roof.

Regardring the MF for applying the sealant, I cant see the problem, as if it is OK for the 301, then I must be OK for the sealant? But I might be wrong.

[umi000]

Hi all, thanks for the answers.

I dont think it was applied to thick, as I first primed the pad with the sealant, and then applied 3 VERY small drops and then buffed in at speed 1 with little to no pressure, when over the areas several times, before moving to next section.

The layer left on was like the residue left when using scratch X.

I did use the swipe test and it was fine, I might guess I actually just used to little force when wiping the rest of, as the plate is kinda "thin" on the bonnet/roof.

Regardring the MF for applying the sealant, I cant see the problem, as if it is OK for the 301, then I must be OK for the sealant? But I might be wrong.

Remember that D301 has some abrasive properties, which means that it can remove hazing that the MF pad might leave by itself. Additionally, there have been user reports that the MF system - even finished with the polishing pad and D301 - can leave a haze on some soft paints.