trying to finalize product choice - M80/M83 vs UC/UP on single stage acrylic enamel

[Murr1525]

That looks quite good... no reason it should not turn out very well.

Taping of trim is a bit up to you... kind of depends how messy you think your will be, and if anything needs protected. As far as decals, definatley avoiding them.

You might look at the Dr. Color Chip instead of wet sanding.

[eddie jr]

OK, well, now i definitely need some help! I heard this process was supposed to be enjoyable and gratifying but so far there is a lot of frustration. I started on the roof and it is certainly (slowly) getting much better but it is taking a long time. A while back i did a test spot on the side (by the door jamb) with #80 and it seemed to come back quite nice after only one application. It seemed a second would probably do it for colour but there were still some scratches noted in my other thread. So i figured it would probably be best to try #83 when starting on the roof. I was still nervous about using the more aggressive UC given a test spot wetsanding and hand polishing a chip with #80 and terrycloth. I actually went through the primer in a small spot (used 2000 only) but then the #80 and terrycloth surprisingly took out the scratches easily (made me think the paint is quite soft). So this is where things started getting really frustrating. My first problem was i was trying to do too large a spot (maybe 2ft square). After shrinking down the area it still took generally 2 applications of the #83 (with white LC pad) and a couple areas still have a hint of orange.....although quite likely in part due to my technique, needing more overlapping.

My biggest problem is that the product dries out VERY VERY quickly and then is absolutely brutal to get off, literally having to scrub....i had to resort to putting quick detailer on to help get the product off. The thing is though i would probably even be exagerating saying that i could work it for 3min.....i would say more like 2 if i was lucky. It dried out soooo quick, so i then had to do 1ft square spots at the largest....meaning it will probably be 12-16 sections for just the roof!

I then tried #80 back in my first area on the roof and it was maybe a little better but still dried out VERY quick and i experienced the same problem. Am i doing something wrong? Working it so short and then still having to scrub it off is not fun at all! My microfibres certainly aren't lasting very long.

The other thing is that the last section i worked on with #83 there seems to be very obvious sections of orange still there......is that because the pad is becoming loaded and less effective? How many apps should you be doing before switching pads?

Now i am wondering if i should try the UC to avoid having to do 2 or 3 apps of 1 or more products, but i am just trying to avoid spending a fortune on all kinds of products etc. THis is definitely a learning experience, that's for sure!

Should i switch up products or maybe use the same and try a different pad?

Any help/direction would really be appreciated. At this rate i should be done by Christmas! lol.

[thepanchmx]

I know somebody will say this is wrong but what i do to work with old paint like yours where the product dries fast, wash the car with a wax/soapix, then mix some 83/80 with the compund(only first step) and with that you will have longer work time.

[Murr1525]

I'm not sure if #83 or UC would have more oils, or might be about the same. #80 has the most of those 3, so thats why it didnt dry out as fast.

On real old cars, people have used a pure polish like #7 and put a good application or two or three of that on the panels before starting to work on them with the cleaning products like #80, 83, etc.

[eddie jr]

On real old cars, people have used a pure polish like #7 and put a good application or two or three of that on the panels before starting to work on them with the cleaning products like #80, 83, etc.

That's interesting, would that increase the working time at all of the #83/80?

Does UC have a longer working time?

[Murr1525]

Well, it is the dry paint pulling the oils out of the product, drying it out more quickly.

So if you can get the paint moisturized, then it wouldnt need to pull the oils out of the #80/Uc, etc.

I mean, I dont want to garauntee it for you, but it is an idea that has been used.

UC is probably similar to #83, but dont know for sure.

[eddie jr]

So what about pad use. How may applications (or uses) do you typically do with a pad before you have to clean it? Does the pad become less effective as more product gets soaked into it? It kind of seemed that way near the end to me. I lost count at the number of rounds i did but probably 10ish.

[Murr1525]

Yeah, new or clean pads certainly will clean better. On a car in good shape, you might not bother changing. On a car in real bad shape, maybe a panel per pad.

Another option is a stronger pad, but that can sometimes lead to other things, so not always the best idea for new folks. I'm not as familiar with LC pads to know where the white falls in exactly.

[eddie jr]

Well, it is going much better. The amount of product was a big factor for sure. It seems to dry out every bit as quick (or quicker), but now there is a very easy buffable film left only. I up'd to the orange pad and have tried the UC (went with the white pad w/ UC first. Even still, i have to do at least 2 passes per section. By then you can see the pad get redder instead of orange so you know you got through the oxidized **** paint. It is definitely a SLOW process though.

THere is definitely no way i will finish in time for our trip in a couple days in which we wanted to be taking this car. THerefore i wont have the sealant on either. I know #7 is water soluble and will wash off but can you leave just the polished finish (UC,83,80) for a few days (even if exposed to rain) and then clean and finish next week? Will exposure do something to the oils and you have to completely re-polish?

[eddie jr]

anyone?