M105 Ultra Cut vs. Wet Sanding - Need Advice

[LedFoot]

To minimize your costs you could, at the very minimum, pick up the W67DA backing plate (this is mandatory), a two pack of the DMC5 Microfiber Cutting Discs, and a 16oz bottle of D300 Correction Compound. That should take care of the "heavy lifting" as it were, removing the defects quite efficiently. Whether or not this process creates some level of hazing on this paint is hard to say until you actually use it, but if it does you can then clean up that haze very easily with a light pass of UC on a foam polishing pad, and then apply your NXT Tech Wax 2.0. If no haze is present after removing the defects (which is more than likely going to be the case), then you can go straight to the NXT.

There is no problem mixing and matching processes as described above, but we do recommend sticking with the D300 Correction Compound instead of UC or M105, even though it's perfectly OK to use them if you don't have other options. UC won't cut as much as D300, and M105 would be both more expensive and create a lot more dust than D300, hence our strong recommendation for D300 here (and it's extremely cost effective, too).

Just make sure you use the microfiber pads and D300 properly - 4800 opm (speed setting 4 on the G110v2) and plenty of pressure. Don't be shy about the pressure, just keep the tool moving slowly over the paint and you'll be fine.

Great info, thanks again!

Couple questions:

I'm guessing the DMC5 comes as a 2-pack minimum, but I'm only using the cutting disc with the D300, and I will only need to use ONE for now (and save the other as a spare for future use), correct?

Will a 16 oz bottle of D300 be enough to cover the hood, roof and rear deck of my car?
Will a 16 oz bottle of finishing wax be enough for the entire car? (I'm assuming yes on both)

Which foam pad should I use to apply the UC to remove haze (if needed) with the G110v2?

Can I use the DMF5 Microfiber finishing disc with the Tech Wax 2.0, or should I use a different pad, and if so, what do you recommend? (If I use Tech Wax instead of the MF Finishing wax)

[LedFoot]

Also, if I were to buy the DAMF Correction kit (http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...-system-kit-6/), should I get the 5" or 6" kit for use with the G110v2? And does the kit come with the same backing plate (W67DA) as you recommended?

[Michael Stoops]

Yes, the DMC 5 comes as a two pack, but you can never have too many pads or microfiber towels! A 16 oz bottle of D300 is enough to do the entire car many times. A 16 oz bottle of D301, or any other wax/sealant, is enough to cover the entire car many, many times! If you choose to use NXT Tech Wax 2.0 instead of D301 then apply it with a foam finishing pad (W9207).

When using the DAMF System on a DA buffer you definitely want the 5" kit (hence our recommendation for the DMC5 cutting discs ). And, yes, the full DAMF5 kit comes with the proper W67DA backing plate while the buffer comes with the W68DA plate, which is designed for the W9207 foam finishing pad and W8207 foam polishing pad.

[LedFoot]

^^^ Great, thank you once again for answering my questions. I really appreciate it. And thanks everyone else for chiming in as well.

Which pad should I use with the Ultimate Compound should I need it to remove haze?


Thanks again. I'm going to order the DA buffer and DAMF correction kit in the next week or two. I will post up pics of my results.

[saturn2]

Good luck with your car I would love to see how it turns out. Just like you I used scratch X etc. only to see them come back later.

[LedFoot]

Good luck with your car I would love to see how it turns out. Just like you I used scratch X etc. only to see them come back later.

Thanks. I will definitely post pics once I do the work.


My scratches never actually went away after using scratch X or Ultimate Compound.

The other day a guy who does body work was painting a bumper on a company car in the parking lot where I work. I asked his opinion and he tried compounding it and buffing it with a soft pad (in a small area). Nothing. Then he tried sanding a small spot with fine grit, then buffed it with compound. Still nothing. So hopefully what Mike recommended will work. It seems as if the scratches are UNDER the clearcoat.... Crossing my fingers!