Hello Michael Stoops,
I have spend a considerable time searching & reading through the forum (before I joined), for recommendations on products & applications for my car, but I couldn't find an ideal recommendation for my car and with a DA, as a lot of the posts are for using with a Rotary or with products that the customers already own, or on clear coat cars. I would greatly appreciate your help. I've read the guides and hope I've followed the forum rules OK. I realize I've written a lot, but I've highlighted the actual questions at the end of the post.
1999 UK model, Toyota MR2 Mk2 Rev5, original paint, solid colour (non clear coat) single stage (substrate, electro deposition, primer surfacer, color coat (urethane & solvent)), paint code 3E5 (Super Red). The paint is all original (no re-spray), except for the front bumper, which was only re-sprayed last year, so I'm happy to skip restoration steps but use the same products that I use on the rest of the car.
I’m looking to 1 days detail on it and follow up the next day with futher coats in necessary and if dry! My first preference is durability, but secondly would also like it to have a good colour depth/finish etc.
So, decision time:
Obviously wash & dry first, then clay as required (sometimes needed less on single stage but “baggy test”). After claying a section, while the surface is still wet with your clay lubricant, use a microfiber polishing cloth to wipe that section dry.
I know always start with the least aggressive product, but wondering which products should I buy, however I don't mind if I buy a product that I don't need, as the lighter product has done the job, for example I might not need M83 and just do repeated passes with M80 Speed Glaze, or just use M83 in the worst areas.
I've picked the following possibilities at my best guess options, but what would you recommend, thanks?:
1. Usual preferred professional products on single stage red. - Though are any of the other/newer products better for this paint?
+ M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish - (optional, if heavy paint damage) with oils to feed the single stage paint and a bit more aggressive than Ultimate Compound.
+ M80 Speed Glaze - (after M83, or if only medium paint damage)
+ M07 Show Car Glaze- (optional, to put more oils in and add a glaze)
+ M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 - (optional, for added durability, but you'd need either M21 or M26 or both)
- M26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax - (optional, to soften the look add depth, but you'd need either M21 or M26 or both)
2. Usual preferred new professional products on modern paints. - These SMAT products are too harsh for this paint and don't have enough oils etc, to feed this paint?
- M105 Ultra Cut Compound – Too harsh for old soft single stage.
- M205 Ultra Finishing Polish - M205 is a bit less aggressive than M83.
+ M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 - To seal in the polish & glaze for a few months. leave it cure for 12 hours and apply a second coat. Wipe the finish slowly.
3. Usual preferred consumer products on modern paints. - These products are best for very mild defects and by hand application.
- Deep Crystal Cleaner Wax - Only mild cleaning, not strong enough for this level of oxidation/fading. Non-abrasive Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner safely removes road grime, surface contamination, light oxidation, swirls, and light scratches to restore damaged and dull finishes.
- A21 Deep Crystal Polish -
- Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax - mild cleaner in it.
+ G103 ScratchX 2.0 -
+ G176 SwirlX -
+ NXT 2.0 - Deep gloss. Both better than Gold Class (a carnauba product) for durability. a synthetic wax that actually contains other polishing and cleaning agents. NXT leaves a cling wrap look.
or Gold Class - Natural shine.
4. Usual prefered new consumer products on modern paints. - These products are for hand and DA?
+ Ultimate Compound - with oils so good for old paints, but it's SMAT, some say diminishing abrashives are better for single stage.
or G103 ScratchX 2.0 -
+ G176 SwirlX -
+ G192 Ultimate Polish -
+ G182 Ultimate Liquid Wax - Longest lasting. Easiest & quickest to use.
5. Don't stick to one product line and go for something like this:
+ G172 Ultimate Compound - Restores color and clarity to abused & neglected finishes. This hi-tech compound cuts as fast as harsh abrasives without scratching or scouring. This is the fast, easy way to remove oxidation, scratches and swirl marks.
+ G192 Ultimate Polish - Pure polish. This pre-waxing glaze eliminates fine swirl marks to produce deep, wet reflections with high gloss. Also adds depth of color, especially on dark-colored cars, & leaves the paint finish incredibly clear & glossy with mirror-like reflections.
+ M07 Show Car Glaze - to put oils into the paint & keep it looking rich after polishing. Apply a thin coat to the entire car. Then, Go around the car two to three times, removing a little bit at a time.
+ NXT Tech Wax -
or Ultimate Liquid Wax - Richens the color and easier to use. Watch the Ultimate liquid wax video first.
6. Very Delicate Paint:
If the paint turns to be very delicate, I've read this excellent article how very delicate paint is best treated with the one of the mildest paint cleaners such a ColorX.
++ The Challenge of Delicate Paint - If you get swirls/hazing from product
Try these, least aggressive first as usual:-
+ UC to remove heavy defects.
+ SwirlX to remove hazing & swirls.
+ ColorX to remove hazing.
Summary of best mix of options:
+ M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
or G172 Ultimate Compound
or M02 Fine Cut Cleaner
+ M80 Speed Glaze
or M09 Swirl Remover
or G176 SwirlX
+ M07 Show Car Glaze
or A21 Deep Crystal Polish
+ M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0
or G127 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 with the same technique.
or G182 Ultimate Wax - richens the color and easier to use.
For the solid single stage red paint with some oxidation & fading, both worse in some areas than others:
Q1. What would be the best option or could you suggest a better option?
I thought the best option might be option "1." or is that what used to be the best option until the newer products came out, so maybe option “4.” is better? Are these older products still best for old single stage paint? Though I've read that for dried out old single stage paint, I should use the older products, M83/M80 which have a good amount of oils in them to feed the paint, compared to the newer SMAT products such as M105, M205 & Ultimate compound, though I think Ultimate Compound has more oils than M105/M205. I think diminishing abrasives such as M83 & M80 better for delicate single stage, than SMAT such as M105 & M205? Also I think the M83 & M80 contain more oils etc to nourish & moisturize old dry single stage paint?
Q2. Should I use M07 as the first stage product or after the compound/cleaners or both?
I've read that this can cut down on the need to compound/cleaner and also that it allows the dry paint to feed on pure oils, rather than the oils & cleaners in compound/cleaners, but wondered if using M07 before the compound/cleaners, would make the compound/cleaners less effective or harder to see if you are getting rid of the oxidation.
Thank you very much,