The Power of 3000 Grit

[rcramie]

Does meguiars have any videos on damp sanding?

[Michael Stoops]

We haven't put together an official video on the subject domestically, but our partners at Meguiar's Asia have a couple of videos on their YouTube channel showing the process. They aren't super in depth as far as being actual "training videos", and since the process is fairly advanced we're a bit hesitant to just link directly to what is a brief video that would probably bring up more questions than it would answer.

This is a subject that we've been considering doing a lengthy write up on, but getting Jason Rose and I together for a day of shooting is tricky due to our schedules.

[slfwilrr]

I have a new piant job, basecoat / clearcoat with some dust and alittle orange peel. Will this DAmf system work? I have a flex buffer will that work with the DAMF?

[NA Notch]

An important note here, though - you always want to use a foam interface between the backing plate and abrasive disc.

Just out of curiosity what p/n backing plate that will work with the g110v2 fits this description? And will it accept the unigrit 3000 discs?

[Wheelzntoys]

S6BP for 6" plate
Item #: MG-S6FI foam interface

[NA Notch]

So if you're really about doing this and decide to just go with, say, 2000 grit by hand, just know that doing so would be roughly the equivalent of using 1000 grit on the DA. Yes, you read that right - hand sanding is that much more aggressive than DA sanding.

I am trying to wrap my head around the above statement. Based on this is it safe to say that using the 3000 unigrit foam pads, with interface and appropriate backing plate is equivalent to 1500 grit hand sanding?

If so I have more questions. My objective is to knock down whole car orange peel from a new paint job. So if the above rule of thumb holds true would I be wasting my time to hand wetsand with 2000 unigrit then move on to damp sand with 3000 unigrit foam pad and G100v2? I ask because I would be smoothing clear with 2000 wet but scratching it deeper wit 3000 damp (equivalent to 1500 sand)? Would I be going in the wrong direction? Or maybe the da with 3000 damp creates a more uniform scratch that cuts up nicer than 1500 hand wetsand? I intend to finish with MF cut and then MF finishing on G110v2. Any help here will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!1

[jarred767]

NA Notch - Actually, I believe that you might have it backwards. The damp Sanding with the DA is actually less aggressive than doing it by hand. So doing 2000 grit by DA would be similar to doing 3000 by hand. The benefit to using the DA is that the scratches you are creating are WAY more uniform and therefore much easier to buff out, especially using the DAMF system, which it sounds like you are.

So any grit by hand will always be more aggressive than the same grit by DA (assuming your not adding weight and pushing on the DA).

BTW, that is a huge project you are attempting on your car, make sure to not rush it. Good luck with it, and be sure to post some pictures for all of us to see!!

[NA Notch]

NA Notch - Actually, I believe that you might have it backwards. The damp Sanding with the DA is actually less aggressive than doing it by hand. So doing 2000 grit by DA would be similar to doing 3000 by hand. The benefit to using the DA is that the scratches you are creating are WAY more uniform and therefore much easier to buff out, especially using the DAMF system, which it sounds like you are.

So any grit by hand will always be more aggressive than the same grit by DA (assuming your not adding weight and pushing on the DA).

BTW, that is a huge project you are attempting on your car, make sure to not rush it. Good luck with it, and be sure to post some pictures for all of us to see!!

You are right I had it backwards. MS set me straight earlier today. Sorry if I added confusion to the thread. My plan is 2000 wet by hand, 3000 damp with g110, then both compound then finish with the DAMF. So let me ask this: if using 3000 grit 6" foam backed discs with foam interface pad, and proper backing plate what speed should I run the g110 at? Also how many passes at that speed should I be aiming for to achieve a proper surface prior to using the DAMF system? I realize the paint plays a huge role in the answere to that question. I've wetsanded at 2000 by hand and the OP is gone.
(ps. I am posting pics in the "makeover" forum as I make progress)
Thanks for your help!

[jarred767]

I just checked out the thread, it looks like quite a project.

So, let me start saying that I am still very new at damp sanding, but have learned a ton of information at the NXT class over the weekend and am slowly practicing what I learned. Regarding your questions, yes the speed and amount of passes should depend on the paint itself, and basically you want to do the minimum amount of sanding necessary to get rid of any scratches left from the 2000 by hand process. I find that starting at about 3 works nice and then as I'm refining the surface bump it up to 4 or even 5 (but with no pressure at all - in fact almost lifting up on the DA). The higher the speed, the less aggressive it will be (especially with this limited pressure). I would go over it a with a few passes and then then check and see where you're at.

I would suggest doing a test spot with the 3000 followed by D300 and a cutting pad to see if you can achieve the look you want. If you can't get there, then you might have to do a few more passes with the 3000. I hope this helps and I'll be sure to follow the thread you started in the makeover forum.

[NA Notch]

I just checked out the thread, it looks like quite a project.

So, let me start saying that I am still very new at damp sanding, but have learned a ton of information at the NXT class over the weekend and am slowly practicing what I learned. Regarding your questions, yes the speed and amount of passes should depend on the paint itself, and basically you want to do the minimum amount of sanding necessary to get rid of any scratches left from the 2000 by hand process. I find that starting at about 3 works nice and then as I'm refining the surface bump it up to 4 or even 5 (but with no pressure at all - in fact almost lifting up on the DA). The higher the speed, the less aggressive it will be (especially with this limited pressure). I would go over it a with a few passes and then then check and see where you're at.

I would suggest doing a test spot with the 3000 followed by D300 and a cutting pad to see if you can achieve the look you want. If you can't get there, then you might have to do a few more passes with the 3000. I hope this helps and I'll be sure to follow the thread you started in the makeover forum.

Hello Jarred,
Check out my progress. http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Coupe-Makeover