Completely Confused

[1994Gen1L]

My (and wifes) 2011 Daily Drivers (DD) get:
1. wash (Turtle Wax Ice Wash)
2. dry w/Water Magnet towel
3. clay (2 x per yr. glass and paint)
4. Color X (applied with Meg's DA - yellow pad and applied by hand to wheels, removed with MF)
5. Ultimate Compound and Stoner's Invisible Glass to keep the glass spot free
5. 303 Aerospace Protectant and/or Ultimate Protectant Dash & Trim Restorer
6. Ultimate Quick Wax (UQW), Gold Class Carnauba + Quick Wax and Gold Class High Gloss Detailer

My 1994 Oxford White F150 prefer's Ultimate Polish (UP) applied with DA and two coats of Ultimate Liquid Wax (ULX) applied by hand. I maintain it with Gold Class Detailer and Gold Class Quick Wax.

My goal is to use as many Meg's products as possible. Some of their products are not available in my area so I use what works best for me and my vehicles. I plan on trying BLACKFIRE Total Polish & Seal once the Color X bottle is empty. I am looking for an AIO that is slightly more aggressive than the Color X.

I purchased a Meg's G110v2 DA a few years ago and love the ease and durability of the machine. I would pick up a Meg's DA with a few yellow (Polishing) and black (Finishing) pads. Then, purchase a bottle of Swirl X, Scratch X and Ultimate Compound. I have used all three products on vehicles in the past and received very positive results.

James

[thebouncer]

Perhaps I should have said "Ult. Compound instead of #105." UC is just easier to work with by DA, and only a little weaker.

Still confused on this do you mean this stuff http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...ompound-32-oz/ they call it ultra compound but also call it 105

To remove swirls, you will have to remove some paint. But you will get better results using new products and good tools that just remove a little paint, and do it evently so you have a nice gloss left behind, not 'sandpaper marks'.

So then I WILL be removing my clearcoat by using the ultra compound correct ? my understanding is going from bottom layer to top sheet metal> primer > paint > clearcoat

from what the body guy told me at the dealership the paint on these cars is thin...


one other thing I think I should ask as it is not clear to me. Is the entire clay, polish, sealant, wax process only done to the metal or is it also done to the plastic panels as well such as the front and rear bumpers ?

[ffboy]

You can clay, clean, polish sealant the plastic bumpers since many if not all modern plastic bumpers are also Primer-base coat-clear coat like most of the panels of the car. so it should be no problem. You will be removing only a small amount of clear, that's why after paint correction it is of great importance to practice proper washing and maintaining steps so that you will not have to keep correcting the paint. Go ahead and clay, clean, polish on your bumpers... unless your bumpers are not painted.. if not, just use ultimate protectant.

[Murr1525]

Still confused on this do you mean this stuff http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...ompound-32-oz/ they call it ultra compound but also call it 105

No, refering to the Consumer Line Ult. Compound:

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...mate-compound/

So then I WILL be removing my clearcoat by using the ultra compound correct ? my understanding is going from bottom layer to top sheet metal> primer > paint > clearcoat

from what the body guy told me at the dealership the paint on these cars is thin...

Yes, some will need removed.

Paint on cars is almost always thin... some may be thinner. As noted, the key is to fix it once, and then take care of it son it wont need heavy cleaning again for a long time.

And yes, your order of layers is correct. When fixing the paint, we are only working on the clear coat (for a clear coated car).

one other thing I think I should ask as it is not clear to me. Is the entire clay, polish, sealant, wax process only done to the metal or is it also done to the plastic panels as well such as the front and rear bumpers ?

You would work the same on anything that is painted.

[thebouncer]

okay so for the compound I would use the consumer line one you linked above and only that one or I would use that then follow up with 205... or use that and if it didnt work go to 105 then 205 ?

[Murr1525]

Well, it would be the same process as noted above.

Test spot with the milder product (205). If it doesnt do it, then test spot with the stronger product (UC). UC should do it, and then you would follow up with 205 if you wanted to. If UC does not do it, we would really want to check your technique more before going onto other things.

You can look at some of the Saturday Class threads, it is a rare car that UC wont fix.

[1994Gen1L]

UC removed water spots from my 2002 Mineral Gray Mustang GT that were at least 5 years old. I used to live on the MS Gulf Coast and it was my wifes DD, enough said.
On the other hand, UC removed the swirl marks from my 1994 Oxford White F150 (I'm the 5th owner) but didn't tackle much of the spots left from not maintaining on a regular basis. It is time for me to use a Burgundy pad or step up to the MF DA System.

[thebouncer]

What temperature does it need to be to be able to do the all of this to the car ? We were in the 80's but now the temp has dropped between 30's- 60's...

[thebouncer]

Just checked weather forecast partly cloudy and in the 40's maybe low 50's this weekend will that be too cold for the clay, polish, sealant and all ?

[Murr1525]

Ehh... its borderline. 50's in the sun would probably be ok.

But in the shade, and the surface is cold, just makes things harder to work with.