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Just out of curiosity, where did you get M101 in New Zealand?
For the record, M101 Foam Compound was developed specifically for use on aftermarket (ie body shop) paint in Europe, in conjunction with the foam pads they commonly use there at fairly low speeds on a rotary buffer. Yes, some folks here in the US have gotten their hands on it and used it on factory paint with both rotary and DA applications, using foam, wool and microfiber pads with great success.
How do you plan on using it - DA, rotary, type of pad? What are you looking to do with it, just remove swirls, or are you going after sanding marks?
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
The best advise is the famous "do a test spot ". It will be like 105 on steroids. Longer working time and finish down great. I know what the compound was built to do but you will find it also works with m/f pads and a da as Mr.Stoops has mentioned.Finding good results with purple foamed wool pads found at ADS.One thing I have not had a chance to try is adding m101 to m105 and or d300.Some claim great results but honestly I can't confirm or deny so try at your own risk.
Live like you're not afraid to die.Don't be scared, just enjoy your ride. Chris Ledoux RIP
PAUL SPARKS / Distinctive Auto Detailing
317-513-4678
Just out of curiosity, where did you get M101 in New Zealand?
For the record, M101 Foam Compound was developed specifically for use on aftermarket (ie body shop) paint in Europe, in conjunction with the foam pads they commonly use there at fairly low speeds on a rotary buffer. Yes, some folks here in the US have gotten their hands on it and used it on factory paint with both rotary and DA applications, using foam, wool and microfiber pads with great success.
How do you plan on using it - DA, rotary, type of pad? What are you looking to do with it, just remove swirls, or are you going after sanding marks?
Hi Michael
I got it from Meguiars here in New Zealand
I will use it with either a DA or the Rotary to see what results I get, If I do it with the DA I will follow up with 205
Test patch 1st though
There was a large thread on another Forum and on Youtube about M101 so it was a toss up between M101 & M105
So we will give it a try with DA M/F, Foam - Rotary wool & Foam
I'd 1st try it with a DA/MF pads and prime the pad with M101. Then use 2 drops of D300 and 1 drop of M101 and get a baseline of how well it is correcting. If you need more correction try adding 1 more drop of M101 and 1 less drop of D300. Works incredible.
South Florida & Metro Detroit's Leader in Vehicle Preservation & Perfect Paint Finishes
I'd 1st try it with a DA/MF pads and prime the pad with M101. Then use 2 drops of D300 and 1 drop of M101 and get a baseline of how well it is correcting. If you need more correction try adding 1 more drop of M101 and 1 less drop of D300. Works incredible.
David, are you able to elaborate further on your experience? I am only guessing, but assume the goal of this process you mention is to achieve greater cut with the M101 and better finishing ability of the D300 than opposed to each product can achieve by themselves? Curious to hear your thoughts here.
Also, glad to see you posting on MOL again, have always enjoyed your posts on other sites and hope you stay awhile.
David, are you able to elaborate further on your experience? I am only guessing, but assume the goal of this process you mention is to achieve greater cut with the M101 and better finishing ability of the D300 than opposed to each product can achieve by themselves? Curious to hear your thoughts here.
Also, glad to see you posting on MOL again, have always enjoyed your posts on other sites and hope you stay awhile.
+ 1
I'd love to hear about your experience as well, David.
I variate the extent/use of M101 to areas that require heavier correction. Because M101 can dust like M105, I use D300 only as a lube to extend the work time and keep the dust to a minimum.
M101 has some serious cutting power and should be used with close moderation/caution. You've never experienced any other product with the strenght and effectiveness as this. Not for the weak.
On a side note, used it on a 6 series BMW with super rock hard paint. Tried it with rotary/wool pad and the cutting wasn't much different. It still took 2 passes to level the defects like the DA/MF pads. The thing it did do was leave some moderate halos that needed cleaning up (of course). This stuff rocks via DA.
South Florida & Metro Detroit's Leader in Vehicle Preservation & Perfect Paint Finishes
I'd 1st try it with a DA/MF pads and prime the pad with M101. Then use 2 drops of D300 and 1 drop of M101 and get a baseline of how well it is correcting. If you need more correction try adding 1 more drop of M101 and 1 less drop of D300. Works incredible.
Prime with 101, then use a mix of 101 and 300. Or, as we've also heard of someone doing, use almost the complete opposite approach. So which is it? If you prime with one and work with another, at what point does the one supplant the other on the pad and the effects of the priming are lost?
This is defnitely NOT to imply that we're taking a shot at David or anyone else, just trying to get everyone thinking about this a bit deeper.
Well, what this really tells us, and what really should be fully understood by everyone, is that using this product other than the way it was intended - which is with a specific foam pad/backing plate combination on a rotary at fairly low speeds in small areas on European aftermarket paint - means that you'll be experimenting. And everyone who has tried M101 on microfiber, on foam, on wool, on a DA, on a forced rotation or on a rotary tool in any way outside the design parameters has been doing just that. Experimenting. Don't get us wrong, we're perfectly fine with people experimenting. We've never had a problem with it, in fact. But it's still experimentation, and what works great for one guy on one car may not work so great for another guy or on another car. So don't be disappointed if someone suggests something and it doesn't work out quite the way you were expecting it to. That's what experimentation is all about. Be creative if you must, but think as you go and change things up. David has a lot of experience polishing paint, polishing different types of paint, and using a lot of different products and processes. Like all really good detailers he can read the paint, can listen to the paint, and knows what the paint is asking for. That is what makes a really good detailer, not just the stuff in the bottle or how light the buffer is. We've heard detailing described as an art, and we've also heard it described as science. The truth is it's a combination of the two, and the two are inextricably intertwined. This is what can make detailing both very rewarding and incredibly frustrating.
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
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