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Thread: Refining 2 year old paint

          
  1. #1
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    Refining 2 year old paint

    I had my '68 Mustang repainted 2 years ago.The car was soda blasted then repainted with Du Pont Chroma System from the bottom up.Topped with Chroma Premier Clear Coat.
    I did not cut sand or polish the paint when it was first finished and only used Quick Detailer on it until last Aug. The car is 100% Garaged and has never been rained on. I put NxT on it in Aug.

    I had been going back and forth about cut sanding it and 2 weeks ago I decided it was time.
    I started with 1500 wet then went to 2000 wet by hand.
    That worked out fine,no problems. Prior to sanding I used a wax and greese remover then clay bar.

    My plan was(is) to use M105,then M205 I had tried a DA polisher with M105 and I could get a real quick shine but still had sanding scratches.
    I purchased a veriable speed Clutch Polisher from Northen Tool, This alows me to use Mequires Wool Pads an Foam Buffs.

    A little side trip here....
    I've watched the vids here on site and under stand all the pit falls of a Newbe running a rotary polisher on paint he cares about so....
    I installed and primed my new Wool pad laid out about a 1 foot long stream of M105 set the rotary dial at 3 and pressed the switch. First thing I noticed I slung the 105 pretty much everywhere.Lowered speed to 2,pad flat and started working,right to left slowly.(How do we discribe side speed) I was leaving about 1/2 "wet patterns") behing the buff. I worked at first in an area about 3 times the size of the pad. I later found an area about 2 times the size of the pad was better. I did 2 complete passes as above then sprayed some Final Insp on the area and again did 2 passes,I'm guessing I worked the area about 3 mins. total. Then stopped and wiped the area clean .

    FIRST QUESTION:

    I'm wiping a pretty good fog after above,should I be Buffing it clean with the wool pad or leaving product as I did and wipe that to a shine with MF towels?
    Will M105 buff to DUST?

    As my paint acts very hard I have to repeat the above 2 or 3 times to cut the 2000 grit sanding marks. Like I said should I be running the M105 dry(er)?

    I've had pretty good luck with the above so far,have not burned any peaks or edges but I do think I may be wasting product.

    SECOUND QUESTION:

    I've worked the trunk with the above and M205 on the recomended foam buff. The questions here are the same...

    Do I work it with the pad to a shine or leave it wet and wipe it off?

    I'm running the Buffer,basicly,on either side of "2" this seems to keep the product from flying off the buffs and still "floating" on the surface. I'm using the wieght of the buffer plus just a little pressure,but by no meens a death grip on the handles with my first pass with M105,then just machine wieght for the secound pass.M205 on Foam just machine wieght.

    I've read here to work it till you get what you like,I do have some surface defects that I'm not going to get out 100%,some dirt that I don't know is in the clear or below in the color so I just knocked the top off those,some small sags that I did get out and a big one that I reduced about 50%. I know the goal,or standard is 100% defect removal.

    Advice?that is not pay somebody to do it.

    Comments?

    Help?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Mr. greg0303's Avatar
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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    Welcome to MOL.


    Many detailers actually start sanding with 1500-2000 grit and then refine it with 2500-3000 grit. That way it's much easier to remove sanding marks, including deep tracers.

    M105 Ultra Cut Compound/ wool cutting pad and rotary buffer are perfect tools for that job. Actually some speed is needed for full sanding mark removal (depending on paint hardness it could be between 1400-1800 rpm). You definitely need to keep a film of product on paint surface and avoid dry buffing. You can spread product on slower speed and then increase it (M105 and M205).

    Here's Meguiar's video on your topic:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6PyXbrNbsE

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    Registered Member Marc08EX's Avatar
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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    to MOL!

    Greg provided some very helpful tips. I would reiterate what he said about never letting your polish dry out. M105 has a tendency to dry out depending on your paint's condition. M205 will have a long buffing cycle so I would worry less about dry buffing with this product.
    2011 Car Crazy Showcase SEMA Team

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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    Ok I worked it some more today,right door and front fender.
    Again working an area about 2 times the buff dia,sqaure. I increased the rotary speed to a little above the "3" speed,I also added a little more pressure,same as above one full pass,then sprayed with detailer and worked the same again. Total time in one area about 35-45 secounds.
    Then I repeated the above.

    Honestly that seemed to do it for M105 in that area,two complete pass' then to the next section.
    The results so far,to me, are stunning to say the least. Terms used on this site are leveling,depth,clarity. I thought the paint looked good when it came out of the booth but removing the texture seems to have transformed it. Just flattening the surface then polishing out the sanding scratches have improved the surface noticabley above what the car looked like when it came oout of the booth.

    I can see a customer receiving the car from a paint shop as mine looks now and being happy with the job.

    Now on to the M205

    Tips,please?

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    Mr. greg0303's Avatar
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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    So far so good. I'm glad higher speed worked out.

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclone03 View Post
    Now on to the M205 Tips,please?
    For maximum results (if you have time and are willing to work more) you could use M205 Ultra Finishing Polish twice:
    Step 1 - swirl/ side effect removal after heavy compounding - polishing pad, rotary buffer speed 1200 rpm, 4-6 passes;
    Step 2 - high gloss restoration - finishing/ jeweling pad - rotary buffer speed 900-1000 rpm or dual action polisher speed 3, 4 passes.

    Your paint is gonna look absolutely stunning after these two steps. M205 uses non-diminishing (super micro) abrasives so there's no need to work long cycles. No heavy pressure needed either, rather medium.

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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    Thanks greg,
    I have the Mequiars yellow foam pad. Are you saying use the maroon/red pad,then the yellow or do I have that backwords?

    Heavy(er) cut pad with 205,then light cut/finish pad with 205,right?

  7. #7
    Mr. greg0303's Avatar
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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    M205 Ultra Finishing Polish paint finishing steps:

    Step 1 - Swirl/ Compound side effect removal - Meguiar's yellow polishing pad;
    Step 2 - High gloss restoration/ Paint jeweling - Meguiar's black/ beige finishing pad.

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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    Got it.
    I have the Yellow pad so I'll work with that.
    Then I'll get the Black/Biege

    I'm going to be applying the '68 Mustang GT "C" stripe to the sides,at that point I'm thinking the area around the stripes will be hand work only.
    Should I go ahead and jewel the surface under the stripe?
    With the degreaser I have to use in that area won't I lose some gross anyway?

    Truth be know the stripe addition was the motivation to finaly start this project.

  9. #9
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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    The finishing pad (black or beige) will really provide maximum gloss out of M205.

    I would prepare the entire paint surface, including the area where the stripes will go. In the future just use masking/ painter's tape over the stripes.

  10. #10
    Global Product & Training Spec Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: Refining 2 year old paint

    Sounds like a really fun project!

    You've mentioned a couple of times that you're running the buffer at or slightly above "speed 3". Do you know what that means in rpm for this tool, because that's going to tell us a whole lot more about whether or not this single variable is really impeding your process. You're going to want to run your wool pad/M105 in the 1400~1800 rpm range to pull out those 2000 grit marks. Start slower and move up if you need to, depending on the paint. We wouldn't be surprised at all if you needed 1800 rpm here, and don't be afraid to use a bit of pressure when doing so. Not much, but you can very safely exceed "the weight of the tool". That very light pressure is great for you final polishing.

    To your questions about running the M105/M205 dry or to dust: you shouldn't buff to where it's totally dry, but it will be pretty close to gone when you do complete a section. As you've probably noticed, M205 is a much wetter, more slippery product than M105 and generally wipes off much easier. It's just the nature of the two liquids, their chemical make up and both the concentration and type of abrasives in them. So combining what sounds like a bit of a short cycle, maybe a bit too slow tool speed, and perhaps not quite enough pressure, it makes sense that you're not pulling out the sanding marks as quickly as you'd like. But keep in mind, adjusting all of these variables at one time will have a cumulative effect on the outcome, so move up in small increments on each variable.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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