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I had my '68 Mustang repainted 2 years ago.The car was soda blasted then repainted with Du Pont Chroma System from the bottom up.Topped with Chroma Premier Clear Coat.
I did not cut sand or polish the paint when it was first finished and only used Quick Detailer on it until last Aug. The car is 100% Garaged and has never been rained on. I put NxT on it in Aug.
I had been going back and forth about cut sanding it and 2 weeks ago I decided it was time.
I started with 1500 wet then went to 2000 wet by hand.
That worked out fine,no problems. Prior to sanding I used a wax and greese remover then clay bar.
My plan was(is) to use M105,then M205 I had tried a DA polisher with M105 and I could get a real quick shine but still had sanding scratches.
I purchased a veriable speed Clutch Polisher from Northen Tool, This alows me to use Mequires Wool Pads an Foam Buffs.
A little side trip here....
I've watched the vids here on site and under stand all the pit falls of a Newbe running a rotary polisher on paint he cares about so....
I installed and primed my new Wool pad laid out about a 1 foot long stream of M105 set the rotary dial at 3 and pressed the switch. First thing I noticed I slung the 105 pretty much everywhere.Lowered speed to 2,pad flat and started working,right to left slowly.(How do we discribe side speed) I was leaving about 1/2 "wet patterns") behing the buff. I worked at first in an area about 3 times the size of the pad. I later found an area about 2 times the size of the pad was better. I did 2 complete passes as above then sprayed some Final Insp on the area and again did 2 passes,I'm guessing I worked the area about 3 mins. total. Then stopped and wiped the area clean .
FIRST QUESTION:
I'm wiping a pretty good fog after above,should I be Buffing it clean with the wool pad or leaving product as I did and wipe that to a shine with MF towels?
Will M105 buff to DUST?
As my paint acts very hard I have to repeat the above 2 or 3 times to cut the 2000 grit sanding marks. Like I said should I be running the M105 dry(er)?
I've had pretty good luck with the above so far,have not burned any peaks or edges but I do think I may be wasting product.
SECOUND QUESTION:
I've worked the trunk with the above and M205 on the recomended foam buff. The questions here are the same...
Do I work it with the pad to a shine or leave it wet and wipe it off?
I'm running the Buffer,basicly,on either side of "2" this seems to keep the product from flying off the buffs and still "floating" on the surface. I'm using the wieght of the buffer plus just a little pressure,but by no meens a death grip on the handles with my first pass with M105,then just machine wieght for the secound pass.M205 on Foam just machine wieght.
I've read here to work it till you get what you like,I do have some surface defects that I'm not going to get out 100%,some dirt that I don't know is in the clear or below in the color so I just knocked the top off those,some small sags that I did get out and a big one that I reduced about 50%. I know the goal,or standard is 100% defect removal.
Advice?that is not pay somebody to do it.
Comments?
Help?
Thanks
I did not cut sand or polish the paint when it was first finished and only used Quick Detailer on it until last Aug. The car is 100% Garaged and has never been rained on. I put NxT on it in Aug.
I had been going back and forth about cut sanding it and 2 weeks ago I decided it was time.
I started with 1500 wet then went to 2000 wet by hand.
That worked out fine,no problems. Prior to sanding I used a wax and greese remover then clay bar.
My plan was(is) to use M105,then M205 I had tried a DA polisher with M105 and I could get a real quick shine but still had sanding scratches.
I purchased a veriable speed Clutch Polisher from Northen Tool, This alows me to use Mequires Wool Pads an Foam Buffs.
A little side trip here....
I've watched the vids here on site and under stand all the pit falls of a Newbe running a rotary polisher on paint he cares about so....
I installed and primed my new Wool pad laid out about a 1 foot long stream of M105 set the rotary dial at 3 and pressed the switch. First thing I noticed I slung the 105 pretty much everywhere.Lowered speed to 2,pad flat and started working,right to left slowly.(How do we discribe side speed) I was leaving about 1/2 "wet patterns") behing the buff. I worked at first in an area about 3 times the size of the pad. I later found an area about 2 times the size of the pad was better. I did 2 complete passes as above then sprayed some Final Insp on the area and again did 2 passes,I'm guessing I worked the area about 3 mins. total. Then stopped and wiped the area clean .
FIRST QUESTION:
I'm wiping a pretty good fog after above,should I be Buffing it clean with the wool pad or leaving product as I did and wipe that to a shine with MF towels?
Will M105 buff to DUST?
As my paint acts very hard I have to repeat the above 2 or 3 times to cut the 2000 grit sanding marks. Like I said should I be running the M105 dry(er)?
I've had pretty good luck with the above so far,have not burned any peaks or edges but I do think I may be wasting product.
SECOUND QUESTION:
I've worked the trunk with the above and M205 on the recomended foam buff. The questions here are the same...
Do I work it with the pad to a shine or leave it wet and wipe it off?
I'm running the Buffer,basicly,on either side of "2" this seems to keep the product from flying off the buffs and still "floating" on the surface. I'm using the wieght of the buffer plus just a little pressure,but by no meens a death grip on the handles with my first pass with M105,then just machine wieght for the secound pass.M205 on Foam just machine wieght.
I've read here to work it till you get what you like,I do have some surface defects that I'm not going to get out 100%,some dirt that I don't know is in the clear or below in the color so I just knocked the top off those,some small sags that I did get out and a big one that I reduced about 50%. I know the goal,or standard is 100% defect removal.
Advice?that is not pay somebody to do it.
Comments?
Help?
Thanks
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