Drying technique

[PY80]

Hi,

I'm new to detailing. My second post here ever.

Just wanted to get learn some tricks of the trade. I've noticed that I'm getting water marks from not drying the car thoroughly after washing. Problem is, I can't seem to dry it fast enough.. any faster and it won't be thorough enough.

By the time I reach my last panel, its already half dried itself and leaving some water marks... BTW, I live in a tropical climate hence things do dry fast here!

How do you guys tackle this problem?

Paul

[ChevyNick]

Well I'm no expert in the drying area, but are you able to dry in a shaded area? That would probably help if you aren't. I wonder if its your water... Sometimes when I'm drying my truck, the opposite side will begin to dry, but no water spots are left usually. If there are any, they wipe away with a spray wax.

[Meticulous-Detail]

Re: Drying technique

Are you using towels or a leaf blower? Did you try the flooding technique when rinsing the soap off?

[Marc08EX]

Re: Drying technique

Have you seen this video yet? Meguiar's Quik Tips Video Series Washing

The main point you have to take from that video is using the sheeting method at the end of your rinse cycle. This will help reduce the amount of water beads on your paint's surface leaving you with less water to dry. That might not fully help you if it's really hot in Malaysia. I'm from Phoenix and I battle the same problem during 120F (50C) degree days. I get occasional water spotting at the last panels I'm drying during that time. However, I just hit the area with Ultimate Quik Detailer or a damp microfiber towel and the water spots go away. I've never encountered etched water spots from drying the car because I don't let that water spot stay there too long.

Hope this helps.

[Murr1525]

Re: Drying technique

Yeah, I would want to try drying with a QD spray, or UQW spray while going around.

You also may want to try to do your first drying really fast. Then come back around a second time with the UQW and final drying wipe.

[Garage Troll]

Re: Drying technique

I know this really isn't a drying technique but I went to rinseless washes I don't have any more spotting. The flooding method, however, works really well.

[JG_Detailing]

I know usually on hot days the car would dry faster then I can put the towel on it. I also use a California water blade on them to. That's a fast way to dry the vehicles off to. When I use that I also carry a towel with me to get the areas I can't get with the blade.

[Poki]

Re: Drying technique

What are you using to dry with? The waffle weave microfiber towels work best for me. If it's hot out, after sheeting the water....I do a fast all around for the big spots the over again for the remaining water. These waffle weaves really soak up the water and leave no trails or drips behind.

[Focus RS]

Re: Drying technique

I have three things to say to you, leaf blower, leaf blower and leaf blower.

[Top Gear]

Re: Drying technique

Two years after the last post and I also say "leaf blower" In fact, I can also say "water filter", "flood as best you can", and then "leaf blower".

I used to spend a LOT of time carefully wiping dry, and that is just no way to live, especially when it's hot and humid out (here in the Southeast) and you can't even get the surfaces of a black car (or your body) dry for hours! Since I gave up the ghost and got a leaf blower, I've had no problem with water spots on the paint, and I've gained back so much of my time and sanity.

With the water filter I've raved about in other threads, the housing has since blown out during an ice storm this past Winter (doh!), so I've been comparing not using it. I can't really tell the difference on the paint because of immediate blow drying, although if I let the water sit anywhere else without blowing dry, water spots form almost as bad as before. I also got a new industrial-quality garden hose, and that may have had at least something to do with it. I'm replacing the blown filter housing (and resuming with a 2 micron carbon water filter), because there are many places where the blower is not blowing dry that are still wet after a rinse or wash, leaving behind hard deposits.

Regarding flooding, I was skeptical (because of having to turn off the water, remove a nozzle, etc) until I also got a new water nozzle which has a "shower" setting. This puts out a soft waterfall that doesn't splatter, so it gets pretty close to "flooding" as the others describe here in the forum. It at least this helps to reduce blower time a bit.

[Poki]

Re: Drying technique

I'm not sure how using a Carbon water filter aids in stopping water spotting. Filters do not remove minerals...the things that cause nasty water spots. Filters remove things suspended in water, water SOFTNERS remove things dissolved in water...minerals. The carbon filter will remove sediment, chlorine, cysts etc but not minerals.

[Top Gear]

Re: Drying technique

Sorry, but that's not quite right. A 2 micron carbon filter removes most particles bigger than 2 microns, which includes a lot of mineral particles, organisms and other sedimentation. The carbon also absorbs some organisms and chemicals. This changes the chemical make-up of the output water significantly. Ergo, as I have seen first hand in applying this theory to the reality of my local water supply, if the filtered water is left to dry, it leaves almost no water spots behind compared to the very hard and obvious spotting without the filter.

Many typical kitchen sink filters are only good down to 25 microns, for example, so getting down to 2 microns is a major difference, still without reducing the water pressure of a nozzled garden hose, and the Whirlpool filter housing and two-pack of filters only cost me $30, plus some brass garden hose fittings. Believe me, despite the gen quality of my local water supply, it is very effective at reducing and nearly eliminating the water spots which occur from my local water supply. The results speak for themselves, and not just for detailing, but for the plants, etc.

[Killerken]

Re: Drying technique

I would recommend purchasing a DI water Filter for your final rinse, combine this with the Flooding / Sheeting method and you should be good to go.
If you can add a blower to quickly dry off the paint even better.

I use AMMO NYC products on my car so I use AMMO Hydrate when drying the car and it makes a world of a difference.

I have ready that you can use a quick detail spray the same way, I have not tried this but from what I read it works well

[dennish2024]

Re: Drying technique

I know this is an older thread but I am surprised that no one spoke of washing and drying is sections. With my car I start by washing the front end and roof first then squeegee the water and follow up with a towel. Also, I still wet down the sides just before drying the front and roof so they don't water spot. Then do one side at a time. Depending on the weather/sunshine I keep the unwashed area wet. I HATE WATER SPOTS!!!