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Today, I broke open the box on a 5" starter kit and experimented on my own car before trying to use the system on an up coming job.
My car is black and has a few defects, but today the goal was not a correction but rather to just get a feel for the system and wax the car. This is a daily driver and every day it seems to rain, so on my dirt scale for this car it was mildly dirty and I decided to use a no rinse liquid to wash it. This is my second time to use this product and I washed twice and dried it off with this behemoth of a drying towel from Mother's. It's huge, thick towel and a bit awkward to use. After drying with the towel, I blew out the cracks with a leaf blower.
I then primed a correction pad by wiping compound onto the pad using a foam applicator, then ran it on the surface of the car for a bit. Next I put on three dots of compound on the pad and started in on the driver's door. Very smooth, easy to work on the surface. Wipe off was very easy too. However, when I put the PC down the pad was dirty! My use of no rinse was not very thorough. So I wiped down the whole car with a dilution of Last Touch. Changed pads on the PC and put on another correction pad, primed again and added the three spots of compound and started in again. Just using the 1st step really improved the surface and gave some great reflections. I could see improved clarity of the reflections on side by side panels, done not done.
Continuing over the rest of the car was a breeze. I stopped after each panel and cleaned the pad using a small brass bristled brush. I slowed the PC down to 2 and ran the brush across the face of the pad from center to edge. I think I may use compressed air the next time. The brush removed a few fibers and that worried me a bit.
I started the third panel and the buffer seemed to be gripping the surface and jumping around. What the heck. Oh, still on speed 2!! Speed 4 works so much better, well duh!
Not wishing to work on a ladder today, I skipped the roof and also skipped the front bumper. I also have a clear bra and I did not use step 1 on the bra.
The car has a great shine and reflections after step 1 and time to work the surface with step 2. My gosh after working the pad around on the surface removal of the product is so easy. I mean you put the microfiber on the surface and the compound seems to move onto the cloth. Wow, it's that easy. I also used step 2 on the clear bra. I'm going to judge how that turned out if the sun every shines.
First impression of D/A MF System, wow. I look forward to using it just a bit more aggressively to perform some correction. My wife's car will be next for more practice before the next real job in a week or so. Not that her's isn't a real job, actually it's the most important car I do. Right dear!! (She reads MOL sometimes)
After step 2, I decided to wax the car. Longevity was not a concern so I was torn between Gold Class+ and Ultimate Wax. I used both. I split the car in half and on the passenger's side of the car I used Gold Class+ and on the driver's side of the car I used Ultimate Wax. In a week or so, I'll take a wet car photo and see if there is a noticeable difference. I'm pretty sure it will rain tomorrow, or the next day, or the next, or....
On the front bumper I used Ultimate Quik Wax. Out of habit, I drench the front bumper with UQW, wipe off and repeat a while later. In my mind, this gives me a bit more bug protection or at least makes it easier to remove those 60 mile an hour kamikazes.
Both waxes, the Gold Class+ and Ultimate Liquid Wax go on easily on top of the step 2. I laid down the whole Gold Class+ side of the car and then started the ULW side of the car. Laying down and 3-5 minutes later wiping off. So the ULW side was completely done before the Gold Class+ side passed the swipe test. There is no sun anymore in Iowa, so tough to judge how each side looks, but they both reflect like crazy.
Two thumbs up from my first go 'round with D/A MF System.
Really makes me question why or when I would use the "traditional" method again. Doing a full correction will give me a better feel for the differences in methods.
My car is black and has a few defects, but today the goal was not a correction but rather to just get a feel for the system and wax the car. This is a daily driver and every day it seems to rain, so on my dirt scale for this car it was mildly dirty and I decided to use a no rinse liquid to wash it. This is my second time to use this product and I washed twice and dried it off with this behemoth of a drying towel from Mother's. It's huge, thick towel and a bit awkward to use. After drying with the towel, I blew out the cracks with a leaf blower.
I then primed a correction pad by wiping compound onto the pad using a foam applicator, then ran it on the surface of the car for a bit. Next I put on three dots of compound on the pad and started in on the driver's door. Very smooth, easy to work on the surface. Wipe off was very easy too. However, when I put the PC down the pad was dirty! My use of no rinse was not very thorough. So I wiped down the whole car with a dilution of Last Touch. Changed pads on the PC and put on another correction pad, primed again and added the three spots of compound and started in again. Just using the 1st step really improved the surface and gave some great reflections. I could see improved clarity of the reflections on side by side panels, done not done.
Continuing over the rest of the car was a breeze. I stopped after each panel and cleaned the pad using a small brass bristled brush. I slowed the PC down to 2 and ran the brush across the face of the pad from center to edge. I think I may use compressed air the next time. The brush removed a few fibers and that worried me a bit.
I started the third panel and the buffer seemed to be gripping the surface and jumping around. What the heck. Oh, still on speed 2!! Speed 4 works so much better, well duh!
Not wishing to work on a ladder today, I skipped the roof and also skipped the front bumper. I also have a clear bra and I did not use step 1 on the bra.
The car has a great shine and reflections after step 1 and time to work the surface with step 2. My gosh after working the pad around on the surface removal of the product is so easy. I mean you put the microfiber on the surface and the compound seems to move onto the cloth. Wow, it's that easy. I also used step 2 on the clear bra. I'm going to judge how that turned out if the sun every shines.
First impression of D/A MF System, wow. I look forward to using it just a bit more aggressively to perform some correction. My wife's car will be next for more practice before the next real job in a week or so. Not that her's isn't a real job, actually it's the most important car I do. Right dear!! (She reads MOL sometimes)
After step 2, I decided to wax the car. Longevity was not a concern so I was torn between Gold Class+ and Ultimate Wax. I used both. I split the car in half and on the passenger's side of the car I used Gold Class+ and on the driver's side of the car I used Ultimate Wax. In a week or so, I'll take a wet car photo and see if there is a noticeable difference. I'm pretty sure it will rain tomorrow, or the next day, or the next, or....
On the front bumper I used Ultimate Quik Wax. Out of habit, I drench the front bumper with UQW, wipe off and repeat a while later. In my mind, this gives me a bit more bug protection or at least makes it easier to remove those 60 mile an hour kamikazes.
Both waxes, the Gold Class+ and Ultimate Liquid Wax go on easily on top of the step 2. I laid down the whole Gold Class+ side of the car and then started the ULW side of the car. Laying down and 3-5 minutes later wiping off. So the ULW side was completely done before the Gold Class+ side passed the swipe test. There is no sun anymore in Iowa, so tough to judge how each side looks, but they both reflect like crazy.
Two thumbs up from my first go 'round with D/A MF System.
Really makes me question why or when I would use the "traditional" method again. Doing a full correction will give me a better feel for the differences in methods.
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