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How To Remove Water Spots

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  • How To Remove Water Spots

    How To Remove Water Spots off Automotive Paints

    There are two basic kinds of water spots or water marks found on automotive paints.
    • Type I Water Spots - Above Surface Mineral Deposits
    • Type II Water Spots - Below Surface Water Spot Etchings

    Type I Water Spots
    Type I Water Spots are what Meguiar's refers to as Above Surface Bonded Contaminants. A Type I water spot is some type of deposit, often times a mineral deposit that was suspended in the water source to begin with, then after the water evaporated off the finish the mineral is left behind where it bonds to the finish usually in a circular or pattern or shape.


    Type I Water Spots - Mineral deposits sitting on top of the paint







    How to Remove Type I Water Spots
    If you discover Type I Water Spots on your car's finish, it will often times require the use of both detailing clay and a paint cleaner to completely remove all trace of the mark left behind.

    [/color]
    • Step by step process for removing Type I Water Spots

      Step 1 - Wash & Dry the Car
      First wash the car thoroughly using a quality car wash to remove any loose contaminants and to also remove any portion of the mineral deposit that has not yet bonded to the paint. After washing the car, dry the car to remove any standing water and to prevent further accumulation of Type I Water Spots.

      Step 2 - Clay the Paint
      Use Meguiar's Smooth Surfaceâ„¢ Clay Kit to clay all affected paint panels. Meguiar's Detailing clay is a special clay that you knead into a wafer or patty, somewhat like a pancake, and then rub over the finish using Meguiar's Quik Detailer as a lubricant between the clay and the paint. As you're rubbing the clay over the finish, the specialized abrasives will loosen and remove any deposits sitting on top of the paint and trap them into the clay and our clay will do this without instilling scratches into the paint.

      Because as you're claying, you're removing these mineral deposits and trapping them into the clay itself, you'll want to take your clay patty and fold it into itself and then re-knead it to expose a fresh side of clay. Also keep a microfiber polishing cloth handy and wipe down the clayed area as you work to remove any excess Quick Detailer from the paint so that you won't have to re-wash the car.

      Repeat the above process until you've clayed all of the horizontal panels on your car and possibly even the vertical panels should you discover Type I Water Spots on the sides of your car's paint.

      Step 3 - Clean the Paint with a Paint Cleaner
      After claying the finish, re-inspect the affected areas, the paint should look smooth and clean as well as feel smooth like a piece of new glass. If you see any trace outlines in the paint where the water deposits were previously, then you'll now need to use a paint cleaner like ScratchX to remove these imperfections out of the paint.

      Any water spots or marks left in the paint after claying the paint are actually etchings in the paint and must be removed using a paint cleaner. Water Mark Etchings are what Meguiar's calls, Below Surface Defects, that is these water marks are where the mineral deposits, (left after the water evaporated off the finish), actually etched into, or ate into the paint. This is why the detailing clay did not completely remove these marks, it's because these marks are below the surface and detailing clay only removes contaminants sitting on top of the surface.

      ScratchX is a paint cleaner that uses Meguiar's Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology to safely remove swirls, scratches and other below surface imperfections out of the paint. Simply apply ScratchX using a clean, soft foam applicator pad and then work the product against the finish with firm pressure. Work a small area or directly on the affected area for 2-3 minutes and then immediately remove any leftover product from the paint and inspect. If the mark is no longer visible, apply a coat of wax to protect the paint. If the mark is still visible, then repeat paint cleaning step using ScratchX. Some swirls, scratches and water spot etchings will require multiple applications to remove depending on how hard the paint is and how deep the defects are.





    Type II Water Spots - Etchings below the surface

    Type II Water Spots are what Meguiar's refers to as Below Surface Defects. A Type II Water Spot is actually an etching in the surface where whatever was in the water was strong enough in its chemical composition to actually eat or dissolve the paint and thus etch into the paint.


    Type II Water Spots - Etchings below the surface




    Close-up of same photo above





    If you discover Type II Water Spots in your car's finish, you can use a paint cleaner by hand such as ScratchX and the procedure outlined above in Step 3 for removing below surface etchings left by Type I Water Spots, or you can use a machine applied product such as a Meguiar's paint cleaner, or cleaner/polish to remove the water spot etchings using Meguiar's G100 Dual Action Polisher.

    Meguiar's Dual Action Polisher will safely clean your car's finish removing a small amount of paint in an effort to level, or smooth-out the paint. The goal is to remove just enough paint to level the upper most portions of the surface with the lowest depths of the defect you're trying to remove. In some cases you may want to check with a seasoned professional for their advice before attempting to remove below surface defects like Type II Water Spots.


    Important Note: Anytime you use detailing clay and/or a paint cleaner on your car's finish, you need to reapply a coat of wax to the paint as detailing clay and paint cleaners will remove any previously applied wax off the paint.
    Mike Phillips
    760-515-0444
    showcargarage@gmail.com

    "Find something you like and use it often"

  • #2
    Good information Mike!

    Would you agree that many Type I water spots can turn into Type II water spots (or even cause clear coat failure) if they are not taken care of quickly?
    Boss_429

    Comment


    • #3
      If the water spots are isolated, Scratch X is the way to go. I never feel like dragging out the PC just to fix a few isolated water spots. If you have to do a large area, or if the spots are severe, then I find that the use of #83 with the PC is mandatory.

      IMHO, etched water spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove.

      RamAirV1
      2015 Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack 392Granite Crystal
      2006 GTO Impulse Blue

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice write up Mike!

        Now I'm curious what is the recommended product to remove water etchings? I had a friend bring me a truck that was attacked by a sprinkler system and I wasn't fully sure what to use on it. I tried DACP and it didn't phase it, so I moved up to medium cut cleaner which just barely had enough bite to remove it after a few passes. This is using the rotary with a foam cutting pad. The medium cut cleaner left a fair amount of swirls in the paint so I had to go back over it with DACP to make the surface look good again. So is there any product that would do the same without leaving the slight swirls? I worked the medium cut cleaner until it was just about dry.
        Later,
        Ricky

        For great Meguiar's deals I use
        Auto Detailing Solutions

        Comment


        • #5
          That does not surprise me at all that a rotary and more aggressive compound was required.

          Those sprinklers are especially nasty. I heard that some of those irrigation systems put fertilizer in with the water so that could make the etching even worse.

          It should be against the law for sprinklers to throw water onto the roadways. That can really screw up your paint! Sometimes you cannot avoid the stream of water.

          RamAirV1
          2015 Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack 392Granite Crystal
          2006 GTO Impulse Blue

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Type 2 Water Spots on My Subaru Legacy

            Originally posted by Mike Phillips
            There are two kinds of water spots,

            1) Above Surface Mineral Deposits
            2) Below Surface Water Spot Etchings
            Mike, thanks for the great information, as always!

            I'm a newbie to this forum and have a classic Type 2 (maybe Type 3...lol) water spot problem.

            I own a black 2000 Subaru Legacy GT and live in New Jersey, where the rain has the Ph of vinegar : - ) Over the years, the rain has actually etched into the surface, making the hood and trunk dull. I used a PC 7424 and Gold Class this weekend, and although the surface of the paint is shiny, there is no depth to it .

            My question: what should I try first, using the 7424. I was thinking #80 with the Meguiars' pads. I should also mention that the paint on this car is considered "soft" by some other wax manufacturers.

            Thanks for your help, and once I get your recommendation I'll be at the online store!

            Joe D.

            Comment


            • #7
              Good and informative thread, Mike. I hate water spots with a passion because my wife loves to park her black 4Runner next to sprinklers. I spent a while last nigh removing fresh water spots.
              Bama

              Comment


              • #8
                Water spots can be real tough! I would go with the #83 myself.

                RamAirV1
                2015 Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack 392Granite Crystal
                2006 GTO Impulse Blue

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Re: Type 2 Water Spots on My Subaru Legacy

                  Hi Joe,

                  Welcome to Meguiar's Online

                  Originally posted by joenj1
                  Over the years, the rain has actually etched into the surface, making the hood and trunk dull. I used a PC 7424 and Gold Class this weekend, and although the surface of the paint is shiny, there is no depth to it .
                  It's possible, that your car's finish is past the point of no return. If enough clear coat has been etched off, it could be the base coat you're working on as if this is true, in most cases basecoat paint will not buff to a high gloss, basecoats depend on the clear coat to create clarity and gloss.

                  My question: what should I try first, using the 7424. I was thinking #80 with the Meguiar's' pads.
                  Assuming the clear coat is still present in enough thickness to enable you to polish, then M80 Speed Glaze would be a great first choice to see what can be accomplished using the dual action polisher.

                  I should also mention that the paint on this car is considered "soft" by some other wax manufacturers.
                  We've noticed a lot of people are confused over the term scratch-sensitive, and the word soft. Modern clear coat paint can be very hard, while at the same time scratch very easy, this is called scratch-sensitive,
                  Mike Phillips
                  760-515-0444
                  showcargarage@gmail.com

                  "Find something you like and use it often"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks to all of you for the information! What a great forum.

                    This water spot thing has been bugging me for years, and I was not sure of what direction to take.

                    I don't think the paint is down to the base coat on the trunk/hood, as it still is the same color as the panels that are not affected. It will take a shine, but on close inspection you'll see the etching.

                    I will try to take some close-up pictures over the next few days and post them.

                    So, I'll start with the #80 and follow with the #26 High-Tech Yellow wax. I'll try the roof first since I can't see it if I goof... :-)

                    One more question: The #9 Swirl Remover is readily available locally; what is the difference between it and #80?

                    Thanks again!

                    Joe D.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by joenj1

                      One more question: The #9 Swirl Remover is readily available locally; what is the difference between it and #80?

                      Thanks again!

                      Joe D.
                      Hi Joe,

                      The M80 is more aggressive especially with a dual action polisher. The M09 Swirl Remover is very non-aggressive and best results for removing below surface defects are had when it is applied with a rotary buffer.
                      Mike Phillips
                      760-515-0444
                      showcargarage@gmail.com

                      "Find something you like and use it often"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Re: Re: Type 2 Water Spots on My Subaru Legacy

                        Originally posted by Mike Phillips
                        Hi Joe,

                        We've noticed a lot of people are confused over the term scratch-sensitive, and the word soft. Modern clear coat paint can be very hard, while at the same time scratch very easy, this is called scratch-sensitive,

                        I agree and have experienced the same thing. But why are some clear coats hard, yet scratch sensitive? One would think that if scratches are hard to remove from a clear coat surface, that it would also be hard to scratch it due to the hardness of the paint.

                        RamAirV1
                        2015 Dodge Charger R/T Scat Pack 392Granite Crystal
                        2006 GTO Impulse Blue

                        Comment

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