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If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

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  • If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

    I've heard people say that #7 is exceptional on SS paints, is it the same on clear coats? (filling wise... I'm detailing my "DD")? If not, what could you recommend?

  • #2
    Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

    If you're asking specifically from a filling perspective, then yes, it really doesn't matter whether it's single stage or clear coat, light or dark in color. It's a fairly oily product that can very effectively fill in and hide defects - as will any pure polish or glaze. That's why body shops of less than excellent reputation will often use a heavy dose of this type product to conceal nasty buffer swirls before handing the car over to the owner.

    It should be noted that M07 was not designed to be a defect concealer but rather a gloss enhancer, which it does very well. On a dark colored vehicle, with the paint corrected to perfection, M07 will add gloss and depth of color to a very noticeable extent. This is perhaps more true on single stage paints than on clear coats, and certainly more true with darker colors. That's part of the reason why we have always stated that the application of a pure polish is an optional step.

    But back to the original question - if you want to use it specifically to conceal fine defects, just make sure to apply a good wax or sealant over it or it won't last long at all as the top coat.
    Michael Stoops
    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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    • #3
      Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

      I think #81 comes close to #7 and the application and removal is easier. But, I still love #7 for the wettest look.
      Jim
      My Gallery

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      • #4
        Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

        I agree with Michael. I aggressively work 3-4 applications of M07 into the aged SS paint of my El Camino every spring before it comes out of hibernation. Nothing else I've ever tried comes close to the enhancement it provides. If I'm really feeling ambitious, I'll rub some into one of my clearcoat cars. While the effect is not as dramatic, it's definitely noticeable, especially on darker colors.

        Bill

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        • #5
          Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

          I agree with BillyJack #7 is fantastic. I use it on CC all the time. I have one white car and one black. The black one comes out looking so wet and shiny that you think you need to carry a towel. On the white it makes the wax go on and come off so smooth you aren't sure your even waxing it. Very good product. It may be a little work to apply and remove but if you do it in small sections it isn't bad and the results are worth the extra step.

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          • #6
            Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

            Just to add my 2 cents...Totally agree with Bill and Allen. Can't add anything else.

            Bill

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            • #7
              Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

              Not to hijack the thread, but I wanted to add a footnote for those who are contemplating using M07.
              One of the reasons I found and joined MOL is to discover an easier and more efficient way to use M07. It is, without a doubt, my favorite Meg's product, but it can be a royal PIA to use. I've tried terry, MF and foam pads. Thanks to Mike Phillips' article in Auto Trader Classics I found a better way.
              Take a typical 16'X16" MF cloth and fold it in quarters. Fold it one more time to a 4"X8" size, squeeze out a bead of M07 down the center of the 8" length and start rubbing it in with a bit of pressure. This stuff isn't a "coating", it's necessary to work it into the finish for best results. Add material as necessary to your pad in small amounts to keep it damp. Do 2-3 panels at a time and don't attempt to remove it all at once, as it tends to "skin" like pudding. Wipe off what you can with a soft, plush MF, then return to finish the first panel after you've done anther panel or two. Applied properly, there should be no need to rub aggressively, as gentle wiping should do the job. Stand back and enjoy, then finish with your LSP of choice.
              Once again, I have no intention of derailing the thread. I just wanted to pass along my experience with the product in the hope it benefits anyone contemplating using M07.

              Bill

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              • #8
                Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                Someone has told me that if I use miguiars ultimate compound which is it an aggresive paint cleanser. Then was told to use meguiars #7 shown shine glaze the meguiars nxt generation 2.0 on a 2010 black ford C-Max. Is this the right way to go. the car has just had the roof resprayed but the car was only clayed 6 weeks ago. hope someone can put me right.

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                • #9
                  Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                  Hulk,

                  That is the correct 'order'. I'll add, after using UC is the finish to your satisfaction, as is it nice and shiney, no maring, ect? If not, another application of say...Ultimate polish, M205...then apply M07, then wax/sealant.

                  As was said above, M07 is (IMO) that final kick that you want before topping off.

                  BillyJack's application method is the best I've read on the 'trick' of #7. I'll reiterate, DON'T LET IT DRY!

                  Bill

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                  • #10
                    Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                    Originally posted by BillE View Post
                    Hulk,

                    BillyJack's application method is the best I've read on the 'trick' of #7. I'll reiterate, DON'T LET IT DRY!

                    Bill
                    Thanks, Bill
                    I've been using M07 for almost 40 years, dating back to my then-new '73 Olds 442, and really only learned the easy way to apply it last year, thanks to Mike Phillips.
                    In past years, when I'd treat my El Camino every spring as it emerged from hibernation, I'd dread opening the jug of M07 because of the effort I knew it would take. The stuff would cake up on the paint and take some real force to remove. Now, I'll actually let the first pass sit for 12-24 hours and it still is relatively easy to wipe off. I know there's a lot of unused M07 that got discarded because people tried it once and got frustrated by the difficulty. Next to discovering clay, learning a user-friendly application process for M07 was probably my biggest "eureka moment" in detailing.

                    Bill

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                    • #11
                      Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                      Nice to read some tips on M07 application, I had used it once or twice on my yellow Neon after having the front bumper resprayed and loved the glow, but hated the work of getting it there!

                      Being that I'm not a chemist- does the fact that M07 is full of oils make adhesion for a synthetic sealant like M21 (v. 1.0) troublesome? Like would it affect the longevity much. I have a silver daily driver I'm polishing now (which will look stellar with M21), and since the finish has been neglected (prior to my inheritance) I wanted to apply some M07 before sealing it, but wasn't sure if it would "work".

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                      • #12
                        Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                        This question has been brought up before, and the answer was that LSP bonding was not compromised. I've used it for years without ever noticing any compromise.
                        BTW, if you plan on using #7 for a bit of restoration, here's my favorite application process, as copied from a post on the AutoGeek forum:
                        "I've worked extensively with #7 on my El Camino with SS burgundy paint, so I'm familiar with its quirks. Probably the best improvement I've made in the process was inspired by Mike Phillips' article on restoring SS paint. Ditch the applicator pads, foam or otherwise. Use a typical 16"x16" mf cloth, fold it in quarters, then fold it one more time for a 4"X8' size. Apply a stripe of M07 down the center and have at it. You can roll up the sides, gripping with your thumb and little finger and use your palm for pressure. Rub it in with some "passion", leaving just a thin film of residue. Removal should be much easier. I've been able to leave it soak in for as long as I care to, even overnight, without difficulty in wiping off, even in a cold garage. #7 also prefers to be wiped off differently than many other products. If it hasn't set up over a long period of time, don't try to wipe it off all at once. #7 "skins" as it dries, kinda like homemade pudding. Knock off the "skin" with a slow, determined pass and continue to the next panel. Return to the first panel and wipe more away, again with a slow motion. Once the #7 is wiped off completely, applying and removing most LSP's is usually not a chore."

                        Bill

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                        • #13
                          Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                          Although this is a Meguiars forum, I use a couple glazes from other manufacturers with great results. With that said, I still use #7 on SS paints...it's just that is isn't the easiest glaze to use. I also think that the new Ultimate polish has some glazelike qualities as a gloss enahncer and is really a great product.

                          If you want t gloss enhancing glaze, I recommend EZ Glaze and/or Wet Glaze 2.0. EZG has some cleaners in it; WG2.0 does not. They are very easy to apply and remove and are the only glazes that make white and silver paint "pop."

                          Jim

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                          • #14
                            Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                            Originally posted by BillyJack View Post

                            ...
                            Once the #7 is wiped off completely, applying and removing most LSP's is usually not a chore."

                            Bill
                            Bill it had been mentioned to me you were "the Man" with M07. I'll try your method sometime, as I dislike M07 and need to improve my technique.

                            "fishing for swirls in a sea of black"
                            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                            David

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                            • #15
                              Re: If #7 is for Single Stage Paint, What for CC?

                              I'll quote another of my own posts from a while ago dealing with LSP over M07:

                              "After your #7 step, the wax will damn near jump out of the tin and spread itself"

                              Bill

                              PS I've been using M07 for almost 40 years. It was only through Mike Phillip's instruction and subsequent experimentation that I really got efficient at it.

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