Its very hard to see on those pics. Nice car by the way
Could do with some close up shots. And Mr Stoops or other guys with more knowledge offering some advise and help as what I suggested was thanks to Mr Stoops and worked for me
Its very hard to see on those pics. Nice car by the way
Could do with some close up shots. And Mr Stoops or other guys with more knowledge offering some advise and help as what I suggested was thanks to Mr Stoops and worked for me
The paint does tend to be very hard on those cars. I recently worked on a 528i, but in Carbon Black. The paint was very hard but with M105 on a orange or cyan LC pad, you should be able to remove light to moderate swirls. If not, M105 and Surbuf pads will. I'd say stick with what you have for now, try working in smaller sections and increase pressure while using a speed of 6.
I did go the rotary route on the car I was working with as it had etched in water spots.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...528i-by-rasky/
I'd hit Jessie up on his offer if you can too.![]()
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Pics showing some of my work...
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/detailing/14187-raskys-work.html
Yes I can imagine being white.
I know you say you have tried every combo.
For me on hard paint. Bmw or VW
Meg yellow pad with ultimate compound on a 12"x12" area until I'm happy with the results. Then refine the finish If required.
Its all down to personal choice. What level is acceptable to you. How much do you want to refine the finish?
On my black pearl. And really hard paint. I have found:-
Ultimate compound on meg yellow pad.
Followed by swirl x on a meg yellow pad.
Followed by swirl x on a meg black pad.
Followed by dc01 on a meg black pad.
Followed by Dc02 on a meg black pad.
Followed by nxt tech wax 2.0
But I'm a bit ocd with my own carand god it shows
.
My last detail was 40 hrs.
Rappy
Have you tried
Ultimate compound on meg yellow pad.
Followed by swirl x on a meg yellow pad.
Followed by swirl x on a meg black pad.
Followed by dc01 on a meg black pad.
Followed by Dc02 on a meg black pad. or ultimate polish
Followed by nxt tech wax 2.0 or ulitmate wax?
I would suggest giving this a go and doing a 50/50 on the hood.
Yes, stick with the DA as it's a much safer tool. M105 and a Surbuf pad can do some serious correction, but I'd also suggest trying the M105 on your orange pad first, while reducing the work area size and increase pressure with slow arm movement. With proper technique that combo should remove most paint defects. I honestly doubt you will need the Surbuf pads, but they would be a lot better than you taking a rotary to your new car.
Here is a good read on the Surbuf's
http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=294
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Pics showing some of my work...
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/detailing/14187-raskys-work.html
@RaskyR1
I've tried the Lake Country orange light cutting pad and 105 and was pretty aggressive with it, and it's didn't do much. What about the Lake Country Yellow Foam Cutting Pad or Purple Foamed Wool Pad on the DA? Is the latter like trying to cut butter with a scalpel?
2011 335i M Sport Coupe
2011 535i Sport
2009 Genesis Sedan 4.6
We don't think you should need to step into a rotary here, at least not quite yet. BMW paint is all over the map; some is crazy hard while some other is actually very easy to work on. Forum member smack has a new black 3 Series in Las Vegas and he managed to get a darn near flawless finish using just SwirlX and a W8207 pad on a D/A, which tells us his paint isn't hard at all. And regardless of base color, the clear coat is what you're dealing with and unless they're shooting different clears over different base coats, in theory there shouldn't be any difference in a given factory.
We've also had a new 1 Series in the garage that corrected very easily, so not all BMW paint is hard. That said, yours very well could be!!!
The Lake Country orange cutting pad is somewhere between our yellow polishing and burgundy cutting pad. Using that with Ultimate Compound on speed 5 and almost enough pressure to stop the pad from rotating should do the trick. Keep in mind you want to stay within that 2' x 2' max area, and maybe even less as Jesse mentioned. Move the tool slowly over the area - very slowly, give it some dwell time - and work in overlapping strokes. Tape off a test section like we did in class as that will give you a good, hard line to better compare the before and after areas.
If all else fails, before dropping big bucks on a rotary and having to go through the learning process with that tool (which you really don't want to do on this car!!!!), wait for our new DA Microfiber System to come out (which is going to be really, really soon now - honest!). That system loves hard paint and will get you going very quickly with virtually no learning curve to speak of, and virtually no risk for damaging anything.
But give the above high pressure, slow movement process a shot first.
Michael Stoops
Internet Technical Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
(800) 854-8073 xt 3875
mstoops@meguiars.com
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
Please post technical questions directly to the forum rather than emailing or PM-ing me. You will get a faster response on the forum, and your question could help someone else, too!
@Michael Stoops
I've done the process with the LC orange cutting pad and UC, with speed 5 and, but not with the pressure, as I've been conditioned to let the machine do the work for me. I'll try the technique you mentioned and get back to you.
What about the Meguiars burgandy W-7006 cutting pad and UC or 105, is that too much?
2011 335i M Sport Coupe
2011 535i Sport
2009 Genesis Sedan 4.6
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