its a true problem area for me. I never get satisfactory results when wiping over the area that covers the speedo & tachometer etc. Usually its covered in fingerprints &/or dust and leaves smeary marks everywhere.... perhaps someone could share with me what works for them.
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cleaning the clear plastic behind the steering wheel ..
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Hey, that's the perfect place for PlastX and the plastic polishes! The clear plastic there is very soft and scratches easily. I use a mf towel with plastic polish; works great, looks clear!
TomAs the light changed from red to green to yellow and back to red again, I sat there thinking about life. Was it nothing more than a bunch of honking and yelling? Sometimes it seemed that way.
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So, Plastx will remove any scratches from my gauge cluster cover? I've got a lot of light swirls on the cover, and would love to remove them!
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I bought PlastX for that very reason, and while it seemed to clear up the scratches, it left a terrible amount of fine Micromarring. I prefer the older Plastic Polish and Cleaner(can't remember the numbers off hand) as they seem clean based off the application material(more cleaning with cotton and less with microfiber) and the Polish fills more than anything and offers wonderful clarity. I would still recomend PlastX if you have scratches, but not for fine polishing of the instrument cover. It works wonders on headlights though.I want 4" Softbuff pads!
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Originally posted by SingingSabre
I use M#10 on my dash assembly. Never had any problems and it leaves it looking invisible.
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I prefer Plastx... never had a problem and I use it all the time on my headlights and tail lights. Even on new vehicles it shines the plastic up very well. Having used both PlastX and the Pro system, PlastX is easier to use and seems to provide the same results as the pro system. I have not tried the side by side just my opinion.
Here is something that I did just messing around a few months ago. Got this plastic from work and its been out side 10+ years. Polished with PlatsX (one side) you can see it cleaned all the yellowing off. There still is what looks like cracks in the entire piece but they in the plastic (below the surface) not on the surface so they are not repairable. Just did it to see what was possible, was surprised how well it worked.
Brandon
2007 Black Chevy Avalanche
My Albums: Avalanche
Meguiars Online Acronyms - Meguiars Product List....
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Originally posted by MattN03
Is M#10 different from PlastX?
Last edited by gb387; Mar 10, 2005, 11:17 AM.Brandon
2007 Black Chevy Avalanche
My Albums: Avalanche
Meguiars Online Acronyms - Meguiars Product List....
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Can I find PlastX in an automotive store like Autozone or will I probably need to order it from Meguiar's?
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Originally posted by MattN03
Can I find PlastX in an automotive store like Autozone or will I probably need to order it from Meguiar's?
I have never seen it in stores, I had to order it.Brandon
2007 Black Chevy Avalanche
My Albums: Avalanche
Meguiars Online Acronyms - Meguiars Product List....
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Hey,
The key with using PlastX is to REALLY REALLY work the product in until it basically turns to a clear residue. If you remove the product too soon or do not work it long enough, the diminishing abrasives may not break down far enough which could cause micro-marring. Moreover, be sure to use a very high quality MF towel for product removal. I prefer Meg's Ultimate Wipe.
Cheers!
Tim
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Originally posted by gb387
Not sure on the make up of the products but M10 is brown or am I thinking of M17? Plastx is a very light bluish/greenish. I would guess they are different formulas.
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Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey,
The key with using PlastX is to REALLY REALLY work the product in until it basically turns to a clear residue.
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