My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

[Mike Phillips]

Using M07 Show Car Glaze To Restore Antique and Original Single Stage Paint -By Mike Phillips


Thought I would share this with my good friends at Meguiar's and the MOL forum community...

I've had my first article published on AutoTraderClassic in their "How To" section. It's one of the longest, most in-depth articles I've ever written and it involves using one of Meguiar's most famous products as well as oldest products in their line still in production.

#7 Sealer Reseal Glaze = Show Car Glaze




Gary Silvers, the VP of R&D once told me while I was still working here at Meguiar's that this is one of the formulas he's never updated, and if that's true then this is a very strong testimony to the skills and abilities of Malcolm Meguiar as a chemist.

The first portion of the how-to article focuses on how to use M07 to gently restore antique and original single stage paint, something that is a passion of mine and something I've had the good fortune to do a lot of for customers over the years.

After the restoration portion of the article I explain that for a lot of car owners, (of antique cars), that this might be as far as they want to go in an effort to protect and preserve the original paint on an antique car.

If a person wants to try to take the antique paint to it's maximum potential by machine polishing, then I included some more steps with other non-Meguiar's products but I do mention that as long as the products you choose are of high quality, that you can move forward in the process with the products of your choice.


M07 is a very unique product that has stood the test of time and is the correct product to use when a person wants to do everything they can do to try to restore and then preserve an original, antique single stage finish as I explain in the article.

With 12,143 words and 91 photos... here are the links to the articles on AutoTraderClassic.com




AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 1

AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 2

AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 3

AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 4

AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 5

AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 6

AutoTraderClassics.com - Restoring Single Stage Paint: Part 7

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Thanks Mike. Read the first few paragraphs of the first link and it reads just like you present yourself at the detailing classes and TNOG's. Really informative and well written.

[Paul S]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Way to go Mike. Great article there. Don't forget all of us little guys as you get famous.
Congratulations again on your article and keep up the good work.

[Bill Davidson]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Congrats Mike on having your first article published with AutoTraderClassic. Wow that is an in depth article. I'll need a good solid chunk of time to read it.

Is it available in print (a magazine)? I'd like to pick one up at Chapters/Indigo if possible.

[CHzo6]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Congrats on the article!
I've used #7 on countless older Corvettes and it's amazing stuff!

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Congrats, Mike. I am sure it is the first of many more publishing's.

[techjazz]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Yeah Mike!

I'm not even done with this article and I love it. While I may not be able to work on a project like that, you present so many points that relate to everyday detailing situations...

Always using the least aggressive method to get the job done, always working clean, inspecting applicators, application methods, and results, putting some passion in your work; really great stuff.

I had a question: The oxidation from the metallic flake really left those microfiber polishing towels and foam applicator pad really dirty!

Would you just throw those towels out as they are so dirty to not be cleaned up to an acceptable level, or if they can be cleaned, what would be the process to clean those two applicator surfaces (microfiber towels and foam applicators) with that much contamination to a new condition? Thanks, Mike, and again: GREAT ARTICLE!

[kappakombat]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Great Article!!

Reminds me of the old family car when I was a kid.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

I had a question: The oxidation from the metallic flake really left those microfiber polishing towels and foam applicator pad really dirty!

Would you just throw those towels out as they are so dirty to not be cleaned up to an acceptable level, or if they can be cleaned, what would be the process to clean those two applicator surfaces (microfiber towels and foam applicators) with that much contamination to a new condition?

Personally I would wash them, my washer has a soak cycle and a double rinse cycle, and when my towels are really grungy I use the hot setting and put them through the wash cycle twice.

Always separate cotton from microfiber and wash and dry separately.
If you really want to get D.O., then separate compound and polish towels from wax and sealant towels because most polish and compounds are water soluble and waxes and sealants are not, thus compound and polish towels will wash and rinse clearer and cleaner "generally speaking" than towels contaminated with substances that don't break down in water and keep in mind a lot of quality waxes and sealants are "detergent resistant".

Again, just depends upon how D.O. you want to get...

D.O. = Detail Oriented


After everything comes out of the laundry I have different categories that I place towels into, the below is an article, not sure if I've posted it to MOL, if I have it's in "Hot Topics" probably...

Wiping cloths
Just as important as any product or tool in your detailing arsenal are your wiping cloths. You can use the best compound, the best polish, the best LSP and of course the best buffing pads and top of the line polishers but if you're using any type of wiping cloth that is in some way, shape or form contaminated then you risk putting swirls and scratches into your car's finish. For this reason it's important to separate your wiping cloths into dedicated categories and have some type of labeling system so that you or others know what a collection of wiping cloths can be used on safely.

The ultimate goal is to have confidence that when you go to remove your LSP of a finish you've toiled over all day long, that the end results will giddy with glee, not because the paint looks fabulous, not loathsome and infuriated because you just instilled scratches back into the paint you've worked on so hard.

More than that, you want friends, family and even employees to be enabled to choose the right cloth in case they're are to perform any kind of detailing task with or without your supervision. For example, you're gone, a bird leaves a bird dropping on the hood of your girlfriend or wife's car and in their attempt to remove the bird dropping you don't want them grabbing the wrong microfiber polishing cloth and remove the bird dropping but create a new Saturday Detailing Project for you in the process.


4 Categories Minimum
Everyone should have at least 4 types of wiping cloths, some of you may have more categories like a dedicated collection of glass wiping cloths, or wiping cloths dedicated towards leather and vinyl dressings. These are the minimum, feel free to separate your wiping cloths as much as you like and places like Target offer plastic roll-around bins with drawers that you can label and store your different groups of wiping cloths. It's important to separate any cloth deemed worthing of wiping a high gloss finish from all the rest.


Good Microfiber Polishing Cloths
You can 'touch' paint with microfiber polishing cloths from this collection. These are the microfiber polishing cloths in your collection that are new or you have washed and dried and you trust them to be safe on a high gloss, polished finish.


Tatty Microfiber Polishing Cloths
These are washed, dried and clean, but their quality has fallen to a level that you have deemed them not worthing of touching a high gloss, polished finish. You don't throw them away because they still have value for wiping spray detailers or cleaner/waxes out places like door jambs, chrome wheels or bumpers, a roll bar, the paint on a boat trailer, or some components in the engine compartment. You might even keep them around for checking the oil or wiping grease off your hands after changing the oil. The point is they are still great at removing residue, just not off a swirl-free, scratch-free, high gloss surface.

Good Cotton Towels
While microfiber is superior at removing polishes, waxes and paint sealants off paint, and especially trace residues off smooth, high gloss finishes, there's still a place for good quality cotton towels. For example, cleaning you pad on the fly. Cotton towels with a large nap work better than microfiber towels. Some people prefer a cotton towel with a large nap to remove compounds because they offer a more aggressive bit but then switch over to microfiber for removing polishes and LSP's. Your good cotton towels should be clean and soft and worthing of working on paint in good condition or better.

Tatty Cotton Towels
Tatty Cotton Towels are cotton towels that are washed and dried but for whatever the reason, their quality is fallen off to far from what's acceptable to touch paint in good condition or better. They still have value however for mundane tasks like wiping excess tired dressing off the face of a tire, applying or wiping cleaners and dressings in the fenderwell area, applying or removing cleaners, dressings or cleaner/waxes in the trunk area or door jambs and engine compartments. The have value because they are absorbent, clean and ready to use and paid for. After some projects you might be better of discarding them versus trying to clean them well enough that they can be used again.



Here's a related article...



Often times on discussion forums, the question comes up,

"How many microfiber polishing cloths do I need to detail my car?"

Usually this is from the perspective of detailing a car, as in a Saturday detailing session.

I would just interject that instead of approaching this from the point of view of,

"How many microfiber polishing cloths do I need to detail my car?"


Instead, look at it from the point of view of,

How many microfiber polishing towels do I need in order to make one, small dedicated wash load in my washing machine?


You see, it's best to not wash microfiber towels with other types of towels like cotton towels or a load of jeans and t-shirts, so ideally you want to only wash microfiber polishing cloths together in a dedicated microfiber wash load.

Thinking about how many microfibers you need from this perspective, you want enough microfiber polishing cloths to run at least a small load through your washer and dryer.

Something about making a wash and dry load with only 4 items for example always seems kind of wasteful. So instead of stocking up on enough microfiber polishing cloths for a single detailing session, stock up on enough microfiber polishing cloths to at least make a small wash load when you're ready to wash and dry your microfiber polishing cloths.


How many do I need?
At least a dozen microfiber towels. 12 average size microfiber polishing cloths makes for a good small wash load in most washing machines. So use that as a target number to shoot for when building up your supply for microfiber polishing cloths.


Here's two more tips...

Dedicated Clothes Hamper
Swing by a store like Target or Walmart and pick up a small clothes hamper for the garage and dedicate this for just microfiber polishing cloths. It's vitally important that your microfiber polishing cloths don't get contaminated with dirt and other abrasive particles.

Seems like the wind always blows leaves into our garage and when they dry out and get crinkly and then get on microfiber it's almost impossible to get all the dried leave particles out of the nap of the microfiber nap and in this case washing it with other microfibers will contaminate them also.

So invest in enough microfiber polishing cloths to make a small wash load and invest in a dedicated clothes hamper for the garage to keep them from getting dirty and contaminated. Then when you have enough dirty microfiber polishing cloths to make a wash load, wash them, dry them and then store them in a place where they wont' get dirty.


Enclosed Storage Cabinet
Another thing to look for at Target and Walmart that will help you are these roll around plastic cabinets with 4-5 drawers. You can fold your microfiber polishing cloths and place them in the drawers and this will keep them clean so they're always ready to use. It's self-defeating to to carefully store your dirty microfiber polishing cloths and wash them in dedicated loads if you don't have a clean place to store them for future use.

Washing and Drying
Another question that comes up all the time is how to properly wash and dry microfiber polishing cloths. It's best to keep this process simple and uncomplicated.

Washing
Wash your microfiber polishing cloths in the warm or hot temperature setting with a quality detergent on the normal or heavy duty setting. Choose between these options by how dirty your microfiber polishing cloths are; if they are really dirty with lots of polish and wax residue then use the hot temperature setting, on the heavy duty wash cycle. If your washer has an optional secondary or extra rinse cycle you can use this option to insure all the detergent is rinsed out before drying.

Liquid or Powder Wash Detergents
There are people that will argue that only a liquid detergent should be used for washing microfiber polishing cloths to reduce the potential for any undissolved powder particles to somehow attach to the nap of the microfiber cloth and remain their, (undissolved), through both the wash cycle and the drying cycle. Personally I've never had a problem using powder style washing detergent. The polish and wax used on this truck was wiped off using microfiber polishing cloths washed using Tide Powder Detergent.

Here's a tip... <-- Important
When using a powder type laundry detergent. Before you add your microfiber polishing cloths, first start by filling the wash tub with water and then add your laundry soap, (both powder or liquid), and let the laundry detergent fully mix with the water to create a uniform soapy water solution to then add your polishing cloths. With a powder type laundry detergent, the violent mixing action by the agitator will allow the powder particles to fully dissolve, thus used correctly a powder type laundry detergent is a liquid.

If you add your polishing cloths first, then pour the powdered laundry detergent on top of them and then start the load, the powder particles will have to work they're way through all the polishing cloths in order to mix and dissolve in the water. So create your soapy detergent solution first and then add your polishing cloths.

Another tip...
If you're making a large load, mix your laundry soap using only the small or medium size wash load first, then after mixing and dissolving the laundry detergent, add your microfiber polishing cloths and then re-set the size selector to large or extra large setting, (whatever you're using), and start the timer/cycle switch at the beginning. The tub will then fill with water to the correct level and wash the microfiber polishing cloths for the full cycle in completely uniform solution of soapy water.



The paint on the below 1956 Ford F150 is a single stage urethane and was easily scratched if you were not careful.






2006 Mosler with an easily scratched clear coat finish



1954 Corvette - Single Stage black Lacquer Paint



Steve Radigan's 1960 Corvette - Single Stage Black Lacquer Paint



Both of these below cars were wiped using microfiber polishing cloths that were washed using powdered Tide laundry soap

Chip Foose's Challenging Challenger



Steve Metz Panic Parrot




And during this detail session, the microfiber polishing cloths used were washed using powdered Tide laundry soap


Nate Truman's 1966 Batmobile



On other forums you'll see people argue over powder versus liquid laundry detergents but if you follow the tips presented here it really comes down to personal preference. One thing for sure, these pictures are real-world details that counter the claim that a powder type laundry detergent will somehow not dissolve, make it through both the wash and drying cycles and then scratch car paint.



Drying
Dry your microfiber polishing cloths alone on the warm to hot setting. Don't use a fabric softener like Bounce Dryer Sheets. It's recommended to use a fabric softener when washing or drying cotton towels but not microfiber materials.

[Superior Shine]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Well done!

[techjazz]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Yeah!

You're like me, Mike. I always post a book for a simple question...

...but an extremely well put answer.

Actually, I'm speechless. Thanks so much!

[Still Learnin]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

That was a chore to read. But I'm glad I did. A lot of great tips and information. Thank you for sharing with us.

[Ravi_1992]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Hey Mike, Great Artical by the way, I just read Part 1 and 2 and I have a question...

Will # 7 run after a wash even if its topped with a wax like nxt2.0 or gold class?

[thewraith1971]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

wish I read this before I had my horror story with a "professional" detailer last year who took a buffer to my 71 demons 40 yr old original paint before he even washed all the dirt and grime off it.

There were burn marks on edges thin spots of paint and left splatter and material all over the car....I am now trying to just salvage what i can and make it look as good as i can by hand afraid to take rotary or DA to it but am always left with dull finish

[eric.u]

Re: My first article published on AutoTraderClassic.com - Using M07 To Restore Paint

Great work!

I just have one question, detailing without abrasives is cool when i look at your list at the bottom end of review i see M80 been used.

Aint that abrasive?

I will remember almost everything you wrote and try to apply it where i can, i owe you one!

Have a nice day!