Help please- G110V2 and misc. questions

[BlackHawk]

Hi. I hope someone out there can make some suggestions for my situations. I would greatly appreciate it!

I recently purchased a Meguiar's G110V2. I have no experience with it. Years ago I used a Black and Decker random orbit at times. Other than that I have always done most things by hand. The pads I purchased for the G110V2 are the Soft Buff 2.0 polishing and finishing pads... yellow and black pads. Is it critical to "prime" a pad before use? Should I lightly mist the pads with Quick Detailer or something else before I apply products like Swirl X, Ultimate Compound, a pure polish, or wax? I've seen some suggest that, but I'm not sure what to do in each case. I have some Quick Detailer and also some Ultimate Detailer. I am concerned that the "quick detailer type sprays" may not be appropriate and may possibly work against some products like Ultimate Compound, Swirl-X, etc. Can I just take a dry pad, squirt an X pattern of product on the pad and go to work? Please let me know as much as you can. Thanks!

I plan to work on 3 cars in the near future. One is a blue Chevy Cobalt. I will wash and clay it first. I looked at the car and I saw it does have a fair amount of swirl marks in it. I have Siwrl-X, Scratch X 2.0, and Ultimate Compound at my disposal. At this point in time I only have experience using Scratch X 2.0. Maybe I should have purchased a different product like...

M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish (M8332)
M80 Speed Glaze (M8032)
M82 Swirl Free Polish (M8232)

or something else? What do you think???


The second vehicle is a 2002 black Mercedes CLK 430. It has a fair amount swirls and some scratches in it if you look at it under certain conditions. A few weeks ago I washed, clayed, and used Meguiar's Cleaner Wax on it by hand. The owner was present to witness the claying part make a HUGE difference! I must say I never clayed a car that was as contaminated as this one was. The unclayed areas -vs- the clayed areas... was like going from sandpaper to glass. The owner was very happy with the end result. I told him in order to make it right (make it look even better) it really should have the swirls and scratches removed. I want to try Swirl-X or Ultimate Compound on it, followed up with #7 (M-0716) Professional Show Car Glaze, and then NXT liquid wax. Suggestions on this project are much appreciated!


The third vehicle is a silver 2009 Toyota Rav 4 Limited. The paint is in excellent shape. It better be at that age. I looked it over and it doesn't have any scratches or swirls. I plan to wash, clay, and use NXT liquid on it.


Can anyone tell me the difference between Meguiar's Deep Crystal polish and Meguiar's #7 (M-0716) Professional Show Car Glaze?


After a detail and these Soft Buff 2.0 pads have wax, polish, etc. accumulation on them, should I wash them with liquid Tide on a gentle or regular wash cycle? Water temp... hot/cold, warm/warm, warm/cold, or cold/cold? Those are the temps on my washer. I ask because I did see some people talk about letting them the way they are (not washing) and storing them in open ziplock bags? The way I currently do things... any hand applicator pads that had wax, polish etc. accumulation on them I would take and spray with a degreaser called "Mean Green" and work them clean under warm water. In my experience the Mean Green does a great job
of getting almost all, if not all of the product out. After the Mean Green treatment I put them in the washing machine with liquid Tide on a gentle cycle. I would like to know the proper way to take care of these pads so they last longer and I don't contaminate them. I guess I could start substituting Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner for the Mean Green if that's ok to do?


Thanks for the help! It is greatly appreciated!

[Scoobie]

Re: Help please- G110V2 and misc. questions

Should I lightly mist the pads with Quick Detailer.

I am concerned that the "quick detailer type sprays" may not be appropriate

I use either a quick detailer type product, or simply some distilled water out of a spray bottle. As far as a quick detailer not being compatable with cleaning/polishing products, the amount of quick detailer that is used to mist the pad is negligible.

it does have a fair amount of swirl marks in it. I have Swirl-X, Scratch X 2.0, and Ultimate Compound at my disposal. At this point in time I only have experience using Scratch X 2.0. Maybe I should have purchased a different product like...

M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish (M8332)
M80 Speed Glaze (M8032)
M82 Swirl Free Polish (M8232)

or something else? What do you think???

Thats a lot of products you have listed there. They are all great products. Instead of me guessing as to which ones you should use click here The site describes each product, thus letting you decide whats right for you.

The second vehicle is a 2002 black Mercedes CLK 430. It has a fair amount swirls and some scratches

Suggestions on this project are much appreciated!

Start with the least aggressive method, and then work up to a more aggressive method if you have to. It is a lot easier to remove paint, then it is to put it back.

Can anyone tell me the difference between Meguiar's Deep Crystal polish and Meguiar's #7 (M-0716) Professional Show Car Glaze?

Deep Crystal® system Polish is a pure polish specially formulated for dark-colored cars. The formula creates a dazzling, high gloss finish by conditioning and nourishing the paint, making dark colors darker and eliminating fine hairline scratches for perfect swirl-free reflections. It is that extra step necessary to create the ultimate, wet-look show car shine.

Show Car Glaze outshines all other hand applied polishes, glazes, waxes and sealants. Restores a dazzling, deep, wet shine. Show Car Glaze does not dry white and is safe and effective on all paint finishes.

Other than these descriptions, one is a consumer line, & the other a professional Mirror Glaze line. It's been quite a few years since I have used these two products. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Soft Buff 2.0 pads have wax, polish, etc. accumulation on them, should I wash them with liquid Tide on a gentle or regular wash cycle? Water temp... hot/cold, warm/warm, warm/cold, or cold/cold? Those are the temps on my washer. I ask because I did see some people talk about letting them the way they are (not washing) and storing them in open ziplock bags?

I have never heard of anyone NOT washing their pads. I simply soak my pads in a bucket of warm water with Dawn for a while, aggetate them a bit by hand, (it's a good idea to wear gloves) and then spray them until all the soap and product is gone, & then let them sit out to dry before putting away.

[BlackHawk]

Re: Help please- G110V2 and misc. questions

Thanks Scoobie! I appreciate the feedback and the time you took to reply!

I used my G110V2 for the first time today. The car I worked on for 8 hours straight was an abused dark blue 2004 VW Passat. After washing, I clayed it. I first tried Swirl-X which made very little to no difference. So I decided to move up to Ultimate Compound. I decided to lightly coat the entire yellow polishing pad with Ultimate Compound to "prime" it. I then applied a little more product to the pad and went to work. I was expecting UC to be more aggressive than it was. The paint was fairly dull and had various scratches. UC did a fatastic job of bringing the color back and making the surface unbelievably smooth. The metallic flake popped out as well. My only disappointment was that I felt it didn't address the scratches and other imperfections as well as I thought it would have. There was one particular mark/scratch on the trunk lid that you could not feel when rubbed or scraped with a fingernail. That spot was as smooth as glass after using UC... it was like the mark/scratch was under the clear coat. I think I will ask the owner about this as I know he had body work done to the passenger side rear quarter panel and my guess is... the body shop most likely "blended" the job in to the trunk lid and just covered over an existing mark/scratch with clear coat making my G110V2 and products useless against correction. Does that sound like a strong possibility? If this turns out to be the case I'm guessing in order to correct it that spot would have to be wet sanded first and go from there? I am not comfortable wet sanding. That is beyond my experience/skill. Thanks for listening.

[Scoobie]

Re: Help please- G110V2 and misc. questions


It's possible the body shop blended over the scratch with the clear, anything is possible. I don't know how bad the scratch looks, but is it worth possibly permanently damaging the finish? I don't know if it's been cleared over, but if it is, you would have to remove the clear to correct it, and that would not be an option.

Without seeing it, you may just want to let it fly.