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Orange Peel

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  • #16
    Re: Orange Peel

    Yes wet sanding factory clears of 75 to 120 microns most often can be done but don't start sanding it with 2000 or stronger paper, OUCH.
    more like a once off 3000 or 4000 grit and taking it really cautiously

    Orange peel can be permanently buried by 10 to 98 percent using a few products and a rotary which hardly anyone in the USA or Australia uses properly or at all.
    I've done it to my car without removing any paint film and also reflowed the clear coat on a factory finish without removing it, it can be done but not something for non pro's to be trying

    Heat is good for paint, but there is a fine line between getting the finish insane and melting it causing delamination of the clear to the rest of the paint or burning it

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    • #17
      Re: Orange Peel

      Never heard of being able to "Re-Flow" paint by heating it. What prevents the compound from getting trapped in the cracks as they flow closed? I do know that paint can expand when heated, but this is a temporary effect. You would have to produce the same results in front of me before I would believe it. And most importantly....why is the enter key on this computer not working? Can't create paragraphs!

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      • #18
        Re: Orange Peel

        I don't believe this guy either!
        Originally posted by Aussie Glossy View Post
        Yes wet sanding factory clears of 75 to 120 microns most often can be done but don't start sanding it with 2000 or stronger paper, OUCH.
        more like a once off 3000 or 4000 grit and taking it really cautiously

        Orange peel can be permanently buried by 10 to 98 percent using a few products and a rotary which hardly anyone in the USA or Australia uses properly or at all.
        I've done it to my car without removing any paint film and also reflowed the clear coat on a factory finish without removing it, it can be done but not something for non pro's to be trying

        Heat is good for paint, but there is a fine line between getting the finish insane and melting it causing delamination of the clear to the rest of the paint or burning it

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Orange Peel

          The reason lacquer cracks is because it is constantly drying . Those cracking or forming crows feet . It only last a few years with proper care . This is one of the many reasons GM got away from it . Fords and Chryslers where spraying single stage enamel back in the day . I have been painting and wet sanding / buffing cars for 35 years . You can't re heat lacquer when it is (dead ) or first applied . Lacquer paint is fragile . It won't hold up to reheating or a too aggressive compound .

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          • #20
            Re: Orange Peel

            Originally posted by allenk4 View Post
            And most importantly....why is the enter key on this computer not working? Can't create paragraphs!
            Try this link... http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...lity-with-IE10

            Bill

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            • #21
              Re: Orange Peel

              I've never quite understood the fascination with wet-sanding on a daily driver. Yes, that flat "sheet-of-glass" look is gorgeous, but extremely difficult to maintain on a regular basis... it will show everything! Orange peel is your friend on a daily driver! Now, a show-car/garage queen... that's another story.

              It seems to me that you will NOT be able to polish the paint/clear flat... it will still be wavy... better than before, but not flat like wet-sanding will achieve.

              It's also interesting how HARD the newer paints & clears are... my '13 Ford Edge Limited had bad paint etching on the horizontal surfaces (sat in a remote lot near an airport for a few months). It took 5-6 passes using M105 and a wool pad (on rotary) to get ~60-75% correction. I didn't take it further as I was concerned about the thickness of the clear. The real shocker was looking at the pad after the first pass... ... it's RED! After I calmed myself, I was like: OHHHH... tinted clearcoat. LOL But it really made me wonder how aggressive the stuff was that attacked my paint, given the hardness of the clear... yowza. I guess jet fuel & smog are a toxic mixture.
              R. Smith
              Santa Clarita, CA

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              • #22
                Re: Orange Peel

                Originally posted by allenk4 View Post
                Never heard of being able to "Re-Flow" paint by heating it. What prevents the compound from getting trapped in the cracks as they flow closed? I do know that paint can expand when heated, but this is a temporary effect. You would have to produce the same results in front of me before I would believe it. And most importantly....why is the enter key on this computer not working? Can't create paragraphs!

                the old lacquers could be reflowed but not modern paint. you just end up bubbling the clearcoat and delamination

                as for removing orange peel with a rotary, yes you absolutely can but on factory paint under 120 microns I wouldn't recommend it

                the denim and velvet pads are best for reducing it by 30 to 97% by rounding it down and by using a medium cutting polish or finishing polish with either pad and good technique, removing no swirl marks, holograms or marring is definately achievable. I do it all the time

                microfibre pads can reduce the orange peel by a smaller amount as well via forced rotation and random orbital with a compound or medium polish using a large orbit throw like a Rupes, Flex forced rotation or my own custom 1600 watt machine

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                • #23
                  Re: Orange Peel

                  I started doing this in early 2011 and love using a denim or velvet pad with a finishing polish or all purpose polish via my fein rotary finishing down at 200 rpm to take whatever amount of peel percentage down that I choose depending on the thickness but I have my trusty gauge with me and am very very focused and dont work for long and keep wiping the residue off to check how its going. but I dont go dead flat on factory paint, that is totally stupid.

                  I usually leave a DA like perfectly marr free finish via this method
                  I am in agreements with "SLICK" on this one

                  it is very hard to go dead flat via this method, wet damp or dry sanding is a better option for aftermarket paint if you want it dead flat.

                  twenty two years with a rotary so Im used to doing this and was trained by 45 year veteran of the industry

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                  • #24
                    Re: Orange Peel

                    Of all the tools available to a detailer the brain is probably the most overlooked, and the most powerful.

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