Removing yellowing from RV

[LongGone]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

I tried again by hand, using more product this time. Unfortunately, the results were about the same - a little better, but still more yellow than I'd like. (On a scale of 10, with 1 being the current appearance and 10 being the white areas, it's improved to a 5 or 6).

I taped off a 6" x 6" area, and went over it twice by hand. I could tell that using more product made the process easier - it wasn't drying up before I'd had a chance to work it like I was getting before. And that meant I could work it longer.

Wasn't able to try again with the PC - all of my cutting pads were dirty. But I wouldn't think the results would be any different.

So, I'm back to my original question - do I need to go to a more aggressive product? Since I don't understand enough about what causes the yellowing to begin with, I don't know what I need to do to try to get rid of it. The product descriptions for both No 67 and No 91 both talk about removing oxidation and scratches, stains, and water marks, but I don't know where yellowing comes into the equation.
Also, if I use another cleaner, I need to make sure it would be both safe and effective either by hand or with the PC.

[Poki]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

I think you will see a big difference using a cutting or polishing pad with your machine vs by hand....regardless of the product. I just finished doing my rear cap. I can not get the G110 under the ladder so I have to do that area by hand. I went over that area 3 times and in the sun it still looked like a blotchy uneven mess compared to the rest done once with the machine.

[LongGone]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Do you plan on treating the vinyl stripes with something?

I got a bottle of M57 Vinyl/Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner. I tried it on a section (see the "box" in the decal below)

[LongGone]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Mike P.
Thanks for the tip about putting the marks on the pad to make sure it's rotating. I tried it yesterday on the pad I was using on my Jeep with some UC - I was amazed at how often the pad would stop rotating, especially in places that aren't flat. But when I could see it stop rotating, I'd lighten my pressure or move the PC so the pad would start rotating again.
Great tip!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

The product descriptions for both No 67 and No 91 both talk about removing oxidation and scratches, stains, and water marks, but I don't know where yellowing comes into the equation.

Abrasive product remove defects, (whatever they are by removing material. The yellowing is on and in the material so to remove the yellowing you need to remove enough material to get past where the yellowing ends... if it ends...

It's possible your yellowed sections are past the point of no return, hard to say without seeing and working on it in person.

See this thread for a thorough explanation of what you're trying to do,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7228

Also, if I use another cleaner, I need to make sure it would be both safe and effective either by hand or with the PC.

I think I listed products that were more aggressive and safe for use by and or PC in this thread, maybe on the first page.

If you're unsure as to how to navigate between pages in a thread basically you want to look for the little numbers at the top and bottom of each thread and these numbers represent the pages of the thread. Here's a picture,

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Mike P.

I was amazed at how often the pad would stop rotating, especially in places that aren't flat.

Yeperdoo....

That's the SAFETY feature everyone loves because it's keeps you from causing damage or inflicting swirls. It also limits how aggressive you can get.

Kind of a love/hate relationship

There's always the option to use a more powerful tool, (which will require more muscle to use), or hire a pro to do it for you.

Make sure the pro does a Test Spot to one small area to make sure he can fix one small area before you let him tackle the entire project.

[LongGone]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

I think you will see a big difference using a cutting or polishing pad with your machine vs by hand....regardless of the product. I just finished doing my rear cap. I can not get the G110 under the ladder so I have to do that area by hand. I went over that area 3 times and in the sun it still looked like a blotchy uneven mess compared to the rest done once with the machine.

It's probably true that I'll get better results with the PC, but I've got so many places where I'm going to have to do it by hand (all of the white spaces between decals, plus other small sections like around the grab-bar by the door) that I need to make sure the product I use by hand performs as well as what I do with the PC






(ps - sorry the pictures are so small - I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong)
Pat

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Fixed your pictures, looks like your trying to insert the thumbnail photos in your gallery. Instead, click on the thumbnail photo and this will bring up the full size picture. Now right click on top of this pictures and then you can snag the URL Address for the full size image out of the Properties box.

If that makes sense?


Good pictures, big project, (glad it's your project and not mine)

[LongGone]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Mike,
Thanks for fixing the pictures. I knew I was doing something wrong, but as my wife will attest, I don't have the necessary patience for figuring these things out on my own.

So, back to the original question...

I've tried a product (No 49) that doesn't appear to be quite aggressive enough. So it seems like I should go up to a more aggressive product and try that, right? And I'm inclined to go up 2 steps to No 91 - does that make sense? And if that doesn't work, then I have to assume that the yellowing is too far gone for me to fully fix.

Pat

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Mike,

So it seems like I should go up to a more aggressive product and try that, right? And I'm inclined to go up 2 steps to No 91 - does that make sense? And if that doesn't work, then I have to assume that the yellowing is too far gone for me to fully fix.

Pat

Sounds like a good plan to me.

[4wheeln]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Hello All!

I'm joining into this discussion because I have a similar issue. 2000 35 Foot GeorgieBoy Landau. Extremely yellowed. I am also going to replace the sticker decals because they are cracked and weathered.

I know that the oxidation is deep but also have a test area that from rubbing compound that revealed the good white gelcoat.

I ordered the MEG W7202 because the MEQ W7006 does not come up as a product at the Mquiredirect.com site. (Not concerned).

So I have ordered SoftBuff 2.0 Cutting pad, Fiberglass Restoration System, Power Cut Compound, Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels.

I plan on hitting this next weekend. I will take some before and after Pictures showing the yellowing compaired to the painted drivers door and trim and also the test area and then the after work. Should be interesting!

Silly question, does anyone think this will work on the yellowed plastic vents? For example the fridge vent was white but now yellow. I am going to try but worse case I will swap it.

Appreciate what I read in this thread. I went to several detail places the last 3 years but obviously this did not work. I put this down as more or less a quick wash and rub down. Was willing to pay to have this done but no real takers so will do this myself this weekend and see how far I get.

Will order replacement graphics after. The coach is good, just beat up by the Arizona sun.

Best Regards
Mark

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Hello All!

I'm joining into this discussion because I have a similar issue. 2000 35 Foot GeorgieBoy Landau. Extremely yellowed. I am also going to replace the sticker decals because they are cracked and weathered.

I know that the oxidation is deep but also have a test area that from rubbing compound that revealed the good white gel-coat.

I ordered the MEG W7202 because the MEQ W7006 does not come up as a product at the Mquiredirect.com site. (Not concerned).

So I have ordered SoftBuff 2.0 Cutting pad, Fiberglass Restoration System, Power Cut Compound, Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels.

I plan on hitting this next weekend. I will take some before and after Pictures showing the yellowing compaired to the painted drivers door and trim and also the test area and then the after work. Should be interesting!

Silly question, does anyone think this will work on the yellowed plastic vents? For example the fridge vent was white but now yellow. I am going to try but worse case I will swap it.

Appreciate what I read in this thread. I went to several detail places the last 3 years but obviously this did not work. I put this down as more or less a quick wash and rub down. Was willing to pay to have this done but no real takers so will do this myself this weekend and see how far I get.

Will order replacement graphics after. The coach is good, just beat up by the Arizona sun.

Best Regards
Mark

Morning Mark,

On my RV, the yellowing fringe vent and the stove exhaust fan vent have both yellowed badly from the sun. I have tried everything, but the damage is just too deep. So I am going to replace both vents with new ones. If you decide to try and fix the vents, be careful as the sun will have made them brittle and they will break easily if you are not careful. You could use a red body shop scuff pad on the vents and then apply a paint like Fusion. But in the end, replacement would be the better fix.

As for the yellowing sides etc, it depends on what the material is: gel-coat or rough surface filon. In most cases, you can bring it back to a certain degree, but the yellowish tinge will remain. I have found that using Meguiar's M67 One Step Compound or the Power Cut Compound from the Marine line, will help a lot, but it may not fix it completely. BUT it will look a LOT better!!!!!!!

As for the graphics, a very light cleaner/polish like SwirlX will bring back some color. But again, when they are too far gone replacement is needed. I have to get my front window covering graphic replaced as well. UGH!

Tim

[4wheeln]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

Thanks for the feedback Tim!

I expected to replace the fridge vent and the exhaust vent. Was wondering if anyone tried anything. Yes, very brittle. I can get the fridge vent in white but my stove vent only seems to be a beige which looks yellowed on the RV. I'll look a little harder.

I have about a 1 foot area that is pretty darn white but it took about an hour of buffing with compund. Now try that on a 35 ft RV... nope!, not me!

I have some level of patience so I will see how the Power cut works. I bought the general kit so that I would prewash, power cut and then wax per recommendations.

The Sticker graphics are just too beat up and cracked by the sun. Not worth any effort there. There is a place nearby me that does Graphic decals for RV's so I can just swing by with my RV and we can replicate the originals. That's my plan.

Only problem is that it is summer here in Phoenix so trying to keep a cool surface will be the challenge. Shooting for half in the early am and then the other half the next day. Suspect it may take me 2 weekends though.

Best Regards
Mark

[Poki]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

If you can post a picture of your stove vent, I may be able to help you locate a white replacement one. (I manage an RV parts store in the winter). As long as the vents are not brittle from the sun, they can be painted white. I did that with my refer. vent several years ago and it stil is nice and white. Think I used Krylon.

[LongGone]

Re: Removing yellowing from RV

I'm on hold with my project for a few days while I try to get some M91 Power Cut Compound - I'm hoping one of the marine stores in town has some. In the meantime I've been working on our Jeep (which get towed behind this motorhome and got blasted by gravel in a construction zone in the Yukon last year)

I'm trying to decide how to work around the decals on my sidewalls. My decals are still in good shape so I don't want to damage them.
My first thought was to do by hand all of the fiberglass areas within 1" of a decal to avoid damaging the top surface of the decal or raising the edge of the decal with the PC. But there's a LOT of decal edge to work around!
If I tape off the decal, it'll be protected from the top - is that enough? Do I still need to worry about the pad damaging the edge of the decal (which could then lead to further damage)?
Then, what about the small 1" gaps between decals. There appears to be a lot of oxidation in these spaces, so they'll need quite a bit of work. If I tape off the adjacent decals, the fiberglass in between will in effect be in a trough. There will be the thickness of the decal and the tape raising the surface level on either side - will the pad be able to effectively get down to the fiberglass?
Any comments?