g110 technique on edges of working area

[humblepie]

When I worked on my car, I noticed that it was hard to consistently work in the m205 around the perimeter/edges of the working area. Working area = a 16"x16" square area I chose to work in.

So at the end of my application, I would wipe away the excess m205, but I noticed that it was much harder to remove the film of m205 left on the edges. Does anyone have suggestions for this?

By the way, what does it mean when the m205 doesn't wipe off the paint as easily? Does it mean I"m getting to a dry buff or like I'm letting the m205 dry on the paint? Is this really that bad if this occurs?

Thanks.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: g110 technique on edges of working area

When I worked on my car, I noticed that it was hard to consistently work in the m205 around the perimeter/edges of the working area. Working area = a 16"x16" square area I chose to work in.

This is one of the reasons you want to overlap your sections as you move around the car. That is, after working a section and then moving onto a new section overlap a little into the previous section.

So at the end of my application, I would wipe away the excess m205, but I noticed that it was much harder to remove the film of m205 left on the edges. Does anyone have suggestions for this?

Maybe try misting a little quick detailer onto the residue.

By the way, what does it mean when the m205 doesn't wipe off the paint as easily? Does it mean I"m getting to a dry buff or like I'm letting the m205 dry on the paint? Is this really that bad if this occurs?

Thanks.

Well you don't want to buff to a dry buff and you don't want to let any compound or paint cleaner dry on the surface. Correct procedure would be to wipe off all residue after working a section.

Actually the only thing that needs to dry are the waxes and paint sealants. There's no benefit to letting any other paint care product dry and it usually just makes removal more difficult.

Be sure to clean your pad often using the clean your pad on the fly technique.

Looking forward to meeting you and checking out your car this Saturday. You're still planning on attending correct?

It's supposed to be cloudy with sun off and on.

[humblepie]

Re: g110 technique on edges of working area

Well you don't want to buff to a dry buff and you don't want to let any compound or paint cleaner dry on the surface. Correct procedure would be to wipe off all residue after working a section.

Actually the only thing that needs to dry are the waxes and paint sealants. There's no benefit to letting any other paint care product dry and it usually just makes removal more difficult.

I was wondering how the edges become more dry in the first place. I think the most logical explanation would be that since I don't uniformly cover the working area, the edges in particular dry out b/c there's less contact w/ the wet pad.

I'll definitely have to spray some QD next time instead of using elbow grease to remove the remaining residue.

This is one of the reasons you want to overlap your sections as you move around the car. That is, after working a section and then moving onto a new section overlap a little into the previous section.

This is great advice.

Looking forward to meeting you and checking out your car this Saturday. You're still planning on attending correct?

It's supposed to be cloudy with sun off and on.

Unfortunately, I made last minute plans with my girlfriend for this Saturday. So I'll have to postpone until February. Hopefully, it will be sunny then I left a cancellation msg on the appropriate thread.

It'll be great to meet the people behind the product.

By the way, Mike, I had great results in my 2nd attempt on MLK day My work log is updated.