Custom Paintjob then...?

[SyTrepT]

I haven't painted my bike yet; but like any other project I gotta get my facts straight!!!


But lets assume that its been 24-48 hours after laying down the topcoat of clear...

Then I have colorsanded to 2500.

My bike has tons of tight areas with corners and cut outs and curves
And it also has sections where its just smooth and flat.

The flat areas would be easy to use pads and such, but how would I get that shine in the tight areas?

I wax commercial jets right now and I have the endurance and strength to
do stuff by hand, would I be able to create enough power by hand to break down the compounds in the tight areas where a pad cant reach?


Oh, and I've browsed this website for about two hours and watch some youtube videos but I'm still a little unclear on which route to use the meguair's system.

After 2500 grit, and a clean...
M84 with wool?
then 82 on a yellow pad?
then thats it?

I can't apply wax for like 2 maybe even 3 months because the whole cold winter paint curing thing.


Thnx!!!

[Mark Kleis]

Let me help you out a bit... M105.

Meguiar's has some amazing new products coming out early 2009, but for now M105 is easy to find and absolutely mind blowing. It will achieve a brilliant finish by hand with relative ease.

Also, in a week or so look for M205 as a final step for even more refinement on your finish.

I doubt you will need anything else...

[Mike Phillips]

Check out post 2 and 3 here,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28909


Either approach will work as long as you're sanding and buffing within a reasonable number of days after painting.

The M105 offers more cutting power but if you're finishing with #2000 to #2500 grit paper then either system approach will work.

If you're just talking about a tank and two fenders then theoretically you could even sand and then remove your sanding marks using M105 by hand probably starting out with terry cloth and the re-doing everything using a foam applicator pad. The Nap provided by terry cloth acts as a form of an abrasive and also gives your abrasive product more bite as you work it.

If you machine buff and the tank and fenders are going to be off the bike frame you're going to need your best friend to hold them securely so nothing bad happens...

[SyTrepT]

Thanks for the advice!!! I asked some "friends" and they are all like... WELL!!! IT
DEPENDS!!?!? And im like... I understand that, but how would you do it? And they dont
give me a straight answer... and then theres the other people who are oddballs and
say toothpaste.... Seriously? haha....maybe for a rattle job . anyways.
I eventually found this website and well....

M105 it is!... I can avoid the non-newbie-friendly
powertools completely. Then M205 (when available), then would #7 make it more wet looking?
And down the road I can put on some wax. Its a daily driver bike, rain or shine. I'm feeling the NXT line.

As for application...
m105-terry cloth
m105-foam applicator pad
(All i see online are the velcro style foam pads-cutting/polishing and finish)
^^^so use the cutting one?

m205- ^^^ use the polish one?
7- ^^^ use the finish one?

[Mike Phillips]

As for application...
m105-foam applicator pad
(All i see online are the velcro style foam pads-cutting/polishing and finish)

^^^so use the cutting one?

The Velcro style are for attaching to a backing plate for a machine. The foam applicator pad you want are little foam "Hand" wax applicator pads and currently www.MeguairsDirect.com is out of stock.

You should be able to find some generic foam wax applicator pads online or at most auto parts stores, I haven't looked for them specifically but I have seen multiple other types on the shelf. Also, just because www.MeguiarsDirect.com is out of stock doesn't mean your local auto parts stores will be out of stock or even, Target, Walmart, etc, or check your local PBE store, they may have our foam hand applicator pads.

They look like the ones under my hand in this picture from a recent Saturday Class.




If you're going to do this by hand then do your best to finish with at least #2000 Grit Paper or higher as this will make removing your sanding marks easier. Try to sand and remove the sanding marks as soon as you can, after the paint has set-up but not fully hardened. Usually a day or two depending upon the paint and the hardeners and solvents you use.

Here's the recipe

M105 with Terry Cloth - Cut a quality terry cloth towel up like a Cannon or Fieldcrest into little squares about 5" square, then fold these in half and you'll have a swath of terry cloth that you can sandwich between your thumb and four fingers. You'll be rubbing this with the M105 against the sanding marks and most of the pressure is going to come from your 4 fingers as that's where the pressure will be concentrated as this foam applicator pad reveals after we used a paint cleaner on a single stage paint.




After you remove all the sanding marks with the terry cloth, then re-polish the paint by hand using the M105 with a foam applicator pad. By switching to foam you'll now have a much more gentle cleaning action that will remove any toweling marks caused by the more abrasive cotton fibers that make up the nap and the pressure you had to use to remove paint, (remove sanding marks).

Remember, polishing paint is an art form...

It could be after this step if you do a great job you could have a show car finish because M105 is that amazing. If you don't have the clearest and most defect free finish you think is possible then re-polish using foam with M205 by hand.

Now you should have a clear, defect free, deep, wet shine.

After 30 days have passed apply the wax or paint sealant of your choice.

Is that detailed enough?

Oh yeah... remove all products carefully with love and tender passion using clean, soft plush microfiber polishing cloths.

[SyTrepT]

Thats uber clear... Did you polish your post or something? haha.

K, thnx. I just wasnt sure if I needed some special pads or something. Some products are like that, :/

[ky_ace]

Man am I glad I found this. I'm ringing up the nearest dealer to order my M105-205 combo kit right now. I have a LOT of work ahead of me. I'm detailing my Road King parts that were recently painted. I guess I'll try the "hand" method first because I was told the clear is not as thick as I would've liked.

Thanks for the info.

BM