I'm off tomorrow and I'll tackle one half of the bow with some very aggressive product. First of course will be a test spot with this product and then follow-up compounding work followed by even more polishing and the waxing.
I have a Father/Son Campout coming up and the boat will be on Silverwood lake for 3 days straight getting punished by the sun and as many boys as we can take fishing, tubing and skiing.
If the finished half holds up then I'll do the rest of the boat, if it doesn't then we'll probably just enjoy the heck out of it for now.
That isn't exactly the jet boat you wanted -
How about sanding it down with 1500 then buffing it out. Would that work?
Here's the engine holder... it's an old Manta Ray Jet Boat, the hull and interior were shot but the engine was brand new. Found this boat for sale about 3 blocks from my house for $2000.00
Manta Ray Engine Donor
The Basset Headers alone retail for $1000.00
After I missed out on the Jet Boat/Engine deal I went for the Starline because my son won't be able to drive a full race drag boat till he's a few years older as he wont' be able to run the gas pedal or the up and down cavatation plate pedals.
He can drive the Starline Deville.
Probably sometime this winter, like November or December I'll sand down the gel-coat and then buff it out, didn't want to get that deep at this time, (no pun intended), so instead I used a very aggressive compound from our Mold Release Line, (MV81 Mold Compound), with a wool pad on a rotary buffer and chopped out the 32 year old oxidized gel-coat. This is not a product or a process most people should undertake on their boat unless all other options have failed and they have years of experience behind a rotary buffer. It helps to have years of experience working on gel-coats also...
Here's a good before shot that accurately shows the condition of the gel-coat before the extreme makeover. Note the gel-coat has the appearance and actually the feel of chalkboard chalk.
Heavy Compounding with MV81 using a wool pad and a Rotary Buffer - 1500 RPM
Polish with M80 using a wool pad and a rotary buffer - 1500 RPM
Polish with M80 using a W-7006 with a DA Polisher - Speed Setting 6.0
Polishing with M07 with a W-8006 and a DA Polisher Speed Setting 5.0
Sealing with NXT Tech Wax 1.0 by hand using a terry cloth wax applicator pad and really working the wax well into the gel-coat
And while we missed out on the race-ready big block Chevy engine for a future drag boat hull we did snag this 1986 Suburban with a fresh, albeit stock rebuilt 454 Big Block Chevy engine and Turbo 400 to replace the 350 Small Block Chevy currently residing in our 1975 Jimmy as it needs a little more umph for pulling a boat up hills and for the 35" Boggers waiting to be installed.
1986 Suburban Engine Donor
New Silent Tire Technology
Long day... should have the rest of the gel-coat compounded, polished and waxed by the time the weekend's over...
Nice on the burb for a motor for your Jimmy.
My ultimate dream for my '64 is a modern drivetrain (heck, frame engine all) underneath the body. I like the idea of a Duramax/Allison tranny combo underneath. 64DMAX would be a new license plate
Do you already have the 3/4 ton axles in it? That T400 would be a great addition as well, pretty much bullet proof!
Keep us up to date on that project too I love turning wrenches (well mostly).
Philippians 2:14 - Do all things without grumbling or questioning,
Another way is to cut the side guides off and then re-weld them on after the buff-out is finished.
With my last drag boat, I removed the engine and all running gear and then invited a half a dozen friends over and lifted the boat off the trailer and set it down on some Semi Truck Tires. After doing the sides, then turn the boat upside down on the tires and get the bottom. While the hull is off it's also a great time to replace the runners on the trailer and do any trailer maintenance.
A lot of work but only had to do it a few times in the 20 years I owned the boat...
This is a little tougher set-up to do to a Jimmy or a Blazer because of the shorter wheel base, thus less room for the increased distance between the tranny and the transfercase, that's why I built a 3/4 ton long bed the first time around, more frame length thus more room to spread things out.
If you look closely you can see the transfercase sitting in the middle of the truck by itself, what you can't see is the baby driveline going from the back of the Turbo 400 to the transfercase, (divorced system). The transfercase by the way is a 2 Ton Transfercase out of a Korean War Troop Carrier. By using this set-up you can mount the transfercase lower between the frame rails which will help decrease the driveline angles to the front and rear axels which enables you to lift a truck higher without the driveline angles most guys run into when they use a mated system. The drop hitch to pull the drag boat was 4' tall and made out of 4" square stock with a 1/2 plate for ball mounting. Kind of on the heavy duty side of things...
Had the above truck for 12 years as a daily driver, it too had big block Chevy, first a 396 and then a 402, (don't ask), and 4:11 gears with Detroit Lockers front and rear. Did the chop top myself and had a local guy make a half-cab soft top. I-Beam bumpers and 4" tubing roll bar made out of driveline tubing. Ran through two sets of 44" Super Swampers on it before selling it. (A mistake).
Yeah... kind of like turning wrenches... (and buffing out cars)
I forgot totally about that, I knew there was a trick somewhere, been too long since I was really into it when I was younger. Now it's Penal Code's, Title 15 minimum jail standards, computers and getting better at cars.Currently the Jimmy has a 700R4 mated to a NP208 Transfercase, in order to use the Turbo 400 transmission since it's a car/truck tranny, first it has to be the short shaft model plus you have to use a divorced transmission to transfercase set-up which is what I did with my 1971 Chevy 4x4
WHEN I have the money I love it too. I need to get my '64 back on the road! Got a burned valve and got a new set of heads (the old ones been rebuilt a few times I think) just need to get them on, compression tested fine prior to removal of old heads. I think I'll pull the motor out and reseal it and check the bearings while I'm at it and maybe an oil pump...I miss driving her around!
I've seen some ridiculous set ups before, I knew one kid in high school that lifted his so high that he couldn't get a driveline in the front, he ended up trashing that truck.By using this set-up you can mount the transfercase lower between the frame rails which will help decrease the driveline angles to the front and rear axels which enables you to lift a truck higher without the driveline angles most guys run into when they use a mated system.
I've sold a car or two when I wish I didn't. The main one was my parents '73 Olds cutlass, rocket 350, they drove it off of the show room floor (literaly, my dad is a freak) and I wish I kept it. It was nickel and diming me to death at the time and I needed cash so I sold it and they went and wrecked it into a ditch a few months later, broke my heart.
Have fun on the boat and your Jimmy. I may lift the hood on the old '64 and wack the wasps out of it and ponder.......
Philippians 2:14 - Do all things without grumbling or questioning,
The boat looks great.
quality creates its own demand
Mike, nice job on the boat. I will have to remember the MV81 incase the powercut doesn't work on the 73 MFG.
Too bad you missed out on that jetboat. That motor alone looks like it was well worth the 2k. I assume the internal's were still good.
As far as putting a 454 in the blazer, good idea, big blocks are fun and can be built for cheap money. Those boggers ill be nice and silent for family trips too! Do you take that truck out to the hammers at all?
If its fast, loud, and runs on a flammable liquid...count me in.
There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)