#84 or #85 for removing sanding marks

[mortenso]

What is best for removing 2000 sanding marks:

1. #84 and w7006 cutting pad
2. #85 and w4000 wool pad (or a w4006 copy for smaller size)

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #84 or #85 for removing sanding marks

You really have to try both to see which works best, different paints react differently.

M84 can be used with a foam pad or a wool pad
M85 should only be used with a wool pad

While foam cutting pads will remove sanding marks, the fact is a wool pad is always going to work faster and in most cases with less heat build up because foam cutting pads tend to increase heat since in most cases the surface of the pad is in complete contact with the paint.

The idea being to do a good job of removing the sanding marks with a wool cutting pad for speed and efficiency and then come back and remove the swirls using a foam pad.

Best thing to do is to get a little of everything, get the M85, get the M84, get a wool pad and a collection of foam pads, cutting, polishing and finishing.

Also, you might consider the Solo System as it's recommended for removing hand sanding marks at #2000 and above and as long as the paint isn't too hard it works really well for this with our wool cutting pads in the Solo System as well as our W-4000

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #84 or #85 for removing sanding marks

Forgot to ask...

What are you working on?

Fresh paint, cured paint?

Entire car or a panel?

[mortenso]

Re: #84 or #85 for removing sanding marks

I want to sand down some touch up paint (repair of rock chip and some minor scratches). I already have #80, #83, w8006 and w7006. Since I can use #83 together with w7006, the next step up would be to get #85 and w4006.

I could then first try #83 with w7006 if it is not cutting it I could step up to #85 and w4006.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #84 or #85 for removing sanding marks

I want to sand down some touch up paint (repair of rock chip and some minor scratches). I already have #80, #83, w8006 and w7006. Since I can use #83 together with w7006, the next step up would be to get #85 and w4006.

I could then first try #83 with w7006 if it is not cutting it I could step up to #85 and w4006.

Chances are good with too much rotary buffer time on the touch up paint you will buff the touch up paint right out of the rock chip, either by abrading or it will heat up and pull out.

If the paint is hard at all, then the work required to remove the sanding marks out of the surrounding clear coat will do the above. If you clear coat is workable, and the sanding marks come out easily, then you might get away with your plan.

Best of luck...

(and here we though you wanted to sand down your car because it was just painted, glad we asked what you were doing)

[mortenso]

Re: #84 or #85 for removing sanding marks

My car was actually painted last year. It had a lot of nasty holograms all over when I got it back from the shop. I actually took it back to Mercedes but they said that this was the best they could do.

When the paint had cured for 3 months I went over it with G100, #80 and #83 with w8006. It removed all the holograms, the paint looked absolutely amazing. Finished it off with #81, #21 and NXT. I got comments of the good looks from all the neighbours :O)

The clear coate is pretty hard, small scratches is hard to take out with G100, #83 and w8006. I have purchased a rotary to tackle the more severe paint defects and touch ups. Instad of sanding the touch up paint and instilling scratches in the surrounding clear, could it be a better strategy to just carefully buff the the tuch up paint with a wool cutting pad and #85 to level it without sanding it first. Could do this in several steps with 10 minutes breaks in between to prevent overheating of the tuch up paint.