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One step polish

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  • #1

    One step polish

    I am finally going to put the Megs to the test on some private work I have lined up. For years it was 3m compound and swirl remover or some one step polish with the wool pad like car brite phaze glaze.

    I foresee using 83 with the rotary and then 80 with pc for paint work on these jobs or just 80 if I can get away with it. I may give the rotary another chance with the 80 as I know now i came nowhere near the breakdown point(I was afraid to run it dry because I never used before.) Didnt have any test panels available(I know I should have.)

    Now these 1 step polishes did get a nice finish but I am really impresses by the pics on this site and why I spent quite a few bucks to change over. I will keep you guys posted. I am confident Megs will take the cake.
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  • #2
    Re: One step polish

    Originally posted by kboxer
    I... I may give the rotary another chance with the 80 as I know now i came nowhere near the breakdown point(I was afraid to run it dry because I never used before.)..
    #80 can gum up pads a bit by rotary what with all the Trade Secret Oils, but it's still a great product. Don't run it dry, only work it until it gets translucent (as opposed to its original opaque brown/green look), it's fully broken down by then. You want to wipe it off before it's dry.

    Mike- Did your guys ever confirm/refute the idea that you need to work #80 until it clears out for the abrasives to fully break down? It makes for a nice rule-of-thumb but I sometimes suspect that the abrasives diminish as much as they're gonna before it gets fully translucent.
    Practical Perfectionist

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    • #3
      Re: One step polish

      Originally posted by kboxer
      I... I may give the rotary another chance with the 80 as I know now i came nowhere near the breakdown point(I was afraid to run it dry because I never used before.)..
      #80 can gum up pads a bit by rotary what with all the Trade Secret Oils, but it's still a great product. Don't run it dry, only work it until it gets translucent (as opposed
      Practical Perfectionist

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      • #4
        That's weird....the majority of my post isn't there I must've botched up the posting somehow.

        Anyway, I wanted to say not to work the #80 until it's dry, but rather wipe it off after it's broken down but still a bit wet. When it starts to look clear/translucent as opposed to its original opaque/brown-green, then it's ready to buff off.

        Mike- Did your guy ever get back to you about how long it takes to break down the diminishing abrasives in #80? I keep using/recomending the old "work it until it starts to clear out" advice as per above, but I wonder if you really need to work it that long.
        Practical Perfectionist

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Accumulator
          I keep using/recomending the old "work it until it starts to clear out" advice as per above, but I wonder if you really need to work it that long.
          FWIW, this is the gauge I use to determine when I'm done and it's time to remove 80. Works great for me.
          Michael Stoops
          Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

          Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by Accumulator
            That's weird....the majority of my post isn't there I must've botched up the posting somehow..
            And now it's all back Sorry, don't mean to be multi-posting

            I am still curious about the working time though...really just intellectual curiosity, as the "clears out" method works fine.
            Practical Perfectionist

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Accumulator


              I am still curious about the working time though...really just intellectual curiosity, as the "clears out" method works fine.
              I've been thinking about this working time question and it seems to me that it would depend on several variables: ambient temp & humidity, speed of machine (yes, we should all be using 5 but you never know!), pressure applied (are you really using 15lbs, or is it 10 or 20?), aggressiveness of the pad (not everyone will use a Meguiar's pad). I should think that if you went to the extreme on many of these variables the time to break down the diminishing abrasives would vary by enough that a real time factor couldn't be established. Maybe I'm nuts but this seems to rationalize, for me at least, the "clears out" indicator as the measure of when to stop.
              Michael Stoops
              Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

              Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by Mike-in-Orange
                I've been thinking about this working time question...[given all the] the variables the time to break down the diminishing abrasives would vary by enough that a real time factor couldn't be established...this seems to rationalize, for me at least, the "clears out" indicator as the measure of when to stop.
                Yeah, that's the way I've been approaching it. A clear visual cue like the clearing out has countless arguments in its favor and I don't see anything *wrong* with telling people to do it that way. Heh heh, as I said, it's just intellectual curiosity on my part.
                Practical Perfectionist

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