Dewalt

[kboxer]

I was trained using the Dewalt and have never used a DA or PC before. Where I worked we were always compounding cars with Perfect it II by 3m and then swirl mark remover with a gray waffle pad. The hologram swirls were real tough to get out of black. From what I have read the PC or G100 have the orbital motion? I have been reading as much as possible but from what I can see if I can use the rotary will I ever need one of those?

I think I may have dry buffed causing that problem because it wasn't all the time.

Another question. Are you guys a firm believer that once you buff a car it will always need it?

[the other pc]

Re: Dewalt

Originally posted by kboxer
…From what I have read the PC or G100 have the orbital motion? …

That’s correct.

Originally posted by kboxer
… if I can use the rotary will I ever need one of those?…

If you can use a ratchet will you ever need a box-end wrench? Some tools are better suited for some jobs even if both will work.

Besides, you said yourself:

Originally posted by kboxer
…The hologram swirls were real tough to get out of black…

That’s a good job for a DA.

Originally posted by kboxer
…Are you guys a firm believer that once you buff a car it will always need it?

I’m not sure what you’re asking here. You only need to buff a car when there are defects in the finish that you want to remove. As long as you aren’t getting new defects (or the ones you are getting don’t bother you enough to warrant removal) you never need to buff.

A proper washing and paint care process will minimize damage to the paint over time. Have you had a chance to read about Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle ?

Realistically, a car that sees actual time on the road will benefit from at least some light polishing every once in a while. That’s another good task for a DA.


PC.

[kboxer]

I see what you're saying about the DA. I didn't know of anyone who had used one. Any of the detail guys in my area I talk to are all rotary guys, nor does anyone go into such great detail like the info on this sight. That is why I hope I can make mine a step above the rest. Also the going rate in my area is cheap which could be why.

I also did read the paint care cycle. Very informative. I will just have to try the different combinations. I am very unsure of what products to use. I understand the process but the cleaner polish and pure polish. Would you want to do the cleaner and then a pure polish? I am talking a circumstance that you want the ultimate finish or will one or the other do.

[imacarnut]

Originally posted by kboxer
I see what you're saying about the DA. I didn't know of anyone who had used one. Any of the detail guys in my area I talk to are all rotary guys

i have a few friend that works in a body shop and never heard of a dual action polisher such as the g100/pc which was surprising (i also notice when driving by this detail shop around my friends house, they don't use anything but a rotary). there are alot detail shops that use rotaries, but still don't use it properly (which is apparent after you look at it)...

[the other pc]

Originally posted by kboxer
... I am very unsure of what products to use. I understand the process but the cleaner polish and pure polish. Would you want to do the cleaner and then a pure polish? I am talking a circumstance that you want the ultimate finish or will one or the other do.

Unfortunately the terminology can be confusing. It's not just a Meguiar's thing, there's no standardization in the industry.

Meguiar's uses the term "pure polish" for products that enhance the beauty of a finish by adding something, like polishing oils, to the surface. It's not protective or long lasting like a wax would be but makes the finish look better. They also use the terms "pure polish" and "glaze" interchangeably.

Meguiar's uses the term "cleaner" to mean a product with cutting and chemical cleaning action that can remove defects (scratches, swirls, oxidation, dirt, etc...) in the paint. Rather than calling heavy cutting products "compounds," medium to light cutting products "polishes" and very light cutting products "swirl removers" they call them all "cleaners."

Buy combining the polishing oils and visual enhancement ingredients of a "pure polish" with the cutting ingredients of a "cleaner" you get a "cleaner/polish"

Buy combining cutting ability of a "cleaner" with the protecting properties of a wax you get a "cleaner/wax."

Mind you, this terminology only holds for overall groups or "families" of products. Individual products sometimes get seemingly random names. M09 Swirl Remover 2.0, M82 Swirl Free Polish and M80 Speed Glaze are all cleaner/polishes, M66 Quick Detailer is a cleaner/wax but A33 Quik Detailer is a quick detailer like M43 Final Inspection, etc...

By using a combination product you can get great results and save some time/work. When you're working to get the "ultimate finish" you might get slightly better results by doing separate steps but that depends on the paint. On many you'll never see a difference.


PC.

[kboxer]

At Meguiars today when I called the specialist said he will somtimes do a #80 and follow with #20 and it looks great. I just stocked up on supplies so I will do some testing. I have #'s 82, 80, 20, 5 and nxt tech wax. I also have some 3m run it II on hand. I think the 82 will be just as agressive though. I am not working on anything wetsanded. Thanks for the replies.

[kboxer]

Sorry bought the 83 not the 82