Wax Job- 06 Monty Red Vette

[vettemaniac]

Hey everyone, just wanted to share a few pics of the wax job on the vette my friend and I did recently. We started our own little detailing business for the summer ( we're 14 ) and decided to go with mostly meguiars products. Below are some pics of my friend's uncle's corvette that we did.







We don't charge a whole lot, and we are definately not proffesionals yet, so we decided just to go with the deep crystal system. We've done 5 wax jobs with it so far and it has worked great! Sorry I only have a few pics, I have to remember to get more next time. If anyone has any comments or suggestions for us I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

Kyle

[SL1CK]

I wish I woulda started as early as you did...but hey 17 is still early hehe


Nice job on the Vette.

[vettemaniac]

Originally posted by SL1CK
I wish I woulda started as early as you did...but hey 17 is still early hehe


Nice job on the Vette.

Thanks a lot.

[Jbirk]

Nice reflections shot I must say. Especially for a 14 year old. No offence, but a complement.

You guys did excellent work.

I am assuming you washed, then you did DC1 and Wax?

Or did you:

Wash
DC1
DC2
Wax?

What about Clay?

I would recomend if you haven't already, wash, clay, DC1, DC2, and Wax.

That combination should require no power tools, and fix very slight swirls, and hide the majority of the rest.

In addition, DC1 is storng enou gh to clean bird droppings, sap, and remove oxidation chemically.


I see no swirls, so I must say it looks quite impressive especially for the products used.

What Wax was used?


I also thought I would point out that the Smooth Surface Clay Kit may be helpful. You would be able to wash, then clay, and then apply the Cleaner wax, which would clean about as much as DC1, Polish much like DC2, and Wax. It is a highly multifunction product with a friendly bite.

For cleaning bird droppings and spot discolorations and scratches, I recomend having a tube of ScratchX available. You cna work it against the paint with a Terry Towel and a lot of effort.

You should get great results with it. I would still recomend DC1 over ScratchX for the entire car as you get twice as much product for half the price and the effort required to scratchX the entire car is insane.


In the future at say age 16 or 17, get a Porter Cable G100 or similar orbital, get some 8000 Series pads, and a 32oz bottle of #80.

You will then be able to wash, clay, and use #80 to remove swirls and polish, then wax.

You will truely be able to remove over 90% of defects with #80 on most paint, yet it is just about as safe as DC1 and with a Porter Cable, you could really work the stuff in.

Just thinking of the future.

[Veedub]

looks good

[RWayne]

That is a very impressive job. Great documentation with the photos and all.

I gotta ask....what did you use?

[vettemaniac]

Thanks for the complements, here's what we did:

Wash
DC 1
DC 2
DC 3 caranuba wax that came with it
2 coats of wax on the hood

We didn't clay bar it because we still need to learn how to do that, but there weren't any swirls or oxidations so I didn't think it was to big of a deal. It was just extremely dirty (the owner races it a lot). Everything was done by hand with the Meguiars gold class yellow applicator pads.

We do have Scratch-X on hand for heavy scratches and swirls that DC 1 does not get out, and that Scratch X works awesome!

The suggestion for clay is defineately one that I'm going to look into, and the porter cable in the future.

[SL1CK]

If you clay in the future, Meguiars offer the Smooth Surface Detail Kit, and the Quik Detail Kit.

Its actually not too hard to learn, you'll get the hang of it real quick.

[vettemaniac]

Originally posted by SL1CK
If you clay in the future, Meguiars offer the Smooth Surface Detail Kit, and the Quik Detail Kit.

Its actually not too hard to learn, you'll get the hang of it real quick.

Ok, thanks. I was actually just about to look at the clay kits, I guess those are my ways to go!

[Jbirk]

Definitely learn to clay real quick. It is very easy to learn.

Buy either the Quik Clay or Smooth Surface Clay Kit. Either way, the clay is the same as far as I can tell. The Smooth Surface Clay Kit comes with 2 bars that are half the size as the 1 bar in the Quik Clay Kit. It comes with a storage container to put it in when done too. It comes with 16oz of Quick Detailer and a 4oz bottle of Cleaner Wax that essentially does the same thing as DC1, DC2, and DC3 in one step.

Okay, well the DC system is better by a fine margin, but the Cleaner Wax will in a third the time yield 98% of the results. (80% of statistics are made up on the spot!)

You also get a great Micro Fiber that is very large and plush.



The basics are very simple.

1. Wash the car first and try to get it as clean as you can by removing dirt, bugs, and debris. You want to have only the bonded surface contaminates left to remove after washing.

2. kneed the clay a little bit. You can roll it up in a ball and flatten it out, you can stretch it, you can pull it, you can press it... Just make a flat surface that can slide across the paint.

3. Put a terry or microfiber towel ion your, clean, shoulder.

4. Spray the paint liberally with quik detailer. It doesn't mean you need to spray it to where it runs as you don't need it thick enough to bead up and run off the area. You only need a thin spray. Basically, you need enough to make the surface slippery. If in doubt, spray it more. You can't cause harm by having the surface over sprayed with Quick Detailer.

5. Spray the side of the clay that will touch the paint as you never want the clay or the paint dry. Both the clay and paint you are claying must remain wet with quick detailer.

6. Move the clay back and forth and apply pressure while it is moving. You can move it quite fast and apply quite a bit of pressure to pick up more bonded contaminates.

7. Before moving the clay into an unsprayed area, you must spray quick detailer or a similar detailing spray on the area before moving the clay to that area, or else the clay will come to a seizing hault and stick to the paint like gum to carpet. It will all of the sudden just stop moving. If this happens, carefully, peal it back and spray the area. Clay that area a bit more to make sure you remove all of the bonded clay. Typically, no harm will be done unless you continue to force drag the clay without a lubricant such as quik detailer.

8. When you have done a large enough area to where the Quik Detailer will start to begin to dry, wipe it off with the towel. If the Quik Detailer has started to dray, spray the area you worked on with more Quick Detailer then wipe it away.

9. When the clay is dirty, simply flip it over squeeze it together and spray the new-formed clean side with a spray of Quick Detailer then continue.


Clay will not mar the finish unless you drop it, don't wash the car properly, or don't properly lubricate the surface.

You are bound to have at least one area where you don't spray enough detailer spray and the clay comes to a stop and sticks to the paint. Just spray that area and clay again. This happened to me 3 times the first time I clayed. It did not cause any damage except the third time it caused a very minor haze that was almost un-noticeable. It took only 1 ScratchX application and about 30 seconds of work max to undo the damage I caused by accidentally moving the clay about 6 inches on a dry car my first time.

My point is the car will be much smoother. I.e. it will feel smooth as glass in comparison to before claying. Second, claying is very easy to do and bubba proof provided you (1), don't drop it, (2) wash the car first, (3) use something slippery between the clay and car paint. Even if you accidentally get the clay stuck a few times, it peals right off and you can re-clay that area. If any damage occurred, ScratchX in seconds will undo the very slight damage the clay caused.

Give clay a try. Clay will work fine in your hands as I have already seen your work. I can already tell you have the motivation to do it right as I have seen the quality of your work. If you were in my area, I would trust you with clay on my cars. That being said, I have NO DOUBT that if I can do it you can too.

Go get some clay.

Now, if Meguiar's would get their act together and offer clay only, that would be awesome. I would really like to be able to buy the very mild Quick Clay without having to buy all the extra goodies that go with it. It would be wonderful to get one of the small 50 gram bars for about $3 to $5. However, for most people without all the serious detailing stuff, it is good Meguiar's includes Quik Detail Spray and the extras such as microfiber and cleaner wax.

One thing I find is people say to break it up in 3 or 4 pieces. They are talking about the Quick Clay, which is 100 grams. The Smooth Surface Clay Kit comes with 2 bars 50 grams each. This means the smallest you would ever want to go is 25 grams and at 33 grams, that would be a third of the 100. In other words, half of the new bar to 2 thirds is what most recommend.

I have found that it is easier for me to just use the entire 50 gram bar as it is reusable anyway. When I used to buy Quik Clay, I would break it in half. The job goes faster and easier for me when I have a larger surface area of clay sliding over the paint.

Seriously, give clay a try once. You will like it, find it easy, and get better results than ever before. Do it before getting a porter cable. Basically, move up one step at a time.

I would recommend you change your procedure from:

Wash
DC1
DC2
DC3

To

Wash
Clay
DC1
DC2
DC3

If you get the Smooth Surface Clay Kit, experiment with this:

Wash
Clay
Cleaner Wax (4oz in Smooth Surface Clay Kit or for sale for under $6 at Wal-Mart in a can of paste or bottle of liquid).

Basically, try doing a car without the Deep Crystal System. The results should be similar and possibly better since you clay and cleaner wax is no slouch.

The cleaner wax is just as good as DC1 but maybe not quite as good; since, it isn't a dedicated cleaner product.

Cleaner Wax will polish like just about every wax that makes the paint look brilliant.

Finally, Cleaner Wax will protect like all waxes.

Advantages:
Saves Time, 1 application VS 3, cheap at under $6 for the big bottle probably 16oz.

Disadvantages:
Possibly results may not be as good, and you cannot layer the wax like you can with DC3 (pure wax). If you try to layer, the cleaners will remove the previous wax and put a new layer down.*

* You can layer other waxes on top of cleaner wax. I.e. Nxt Tech Wax and Deep Crystal 3, or Hi Tech Yellow.

One thing is for sure. Liquids are easier to work with at least for me. You can get going and put some droplets of the liquid in a path to pick them up and smear it around and work it in a thin layer. Liquids are faster and later you can use them with a Porter Cable much easier than paste, which I know some have done by machine.


Later in the future, you may wish to pick up a bottle of ColorX and do:

Wash
Clay
ColorX

This will provide excellent cleaning abilities and probably exceed those of the Deep Crystal System easily. In addition, it has the ability to remove swirls, and Oxidation like you would not believe. Mike once did a vehicle that was discolored and it looked like the vehicle was repainted after being treated with ColorX

For that matter, you can always add ScratchX where needed or do ScratchX on the entire car if you have the energy. I think it would be too costly though as it would take about 2 tubes of ScratchX to do one car.


After doing all of the above and getting more experience, get a Porter Cable G100 or 7xxx oscillating sander of some sort and buy just the 8000 series foam and #80. Keep the cord over your shoulder and work the product in until it is fully worked but not dry. #80 is easy to play with. Always keep the porter cable flat on the paint. I.e. don't tilt it even though it is quite forgiving. Just don't work to a dry buff and you will be fine.

The results of this simple procedure will knock the socks off of owners when they get their vehicles back. Their cars will look better than they did when new after # 80 in most situations.

This is the procedure I use:

Wash
Clay
#80
Nxt Tech Wax

I still do the wax by hand with the Yellow Hi-Tech applicators. However, I am going to get some 9000 series foam discs, and a wool disc and an ultimate bonnet, so I can put on and remove wax with my Porter Cable.

Also, buy plenty of Blue Painters Masking Tape. Get a good brand that doesn't leave any residue at all. I use Scotch. Buy a lot of it, so you have extra. Use trash bags to cover antennas, windows, tires, et cetera.

You basically want to tape up the entire car as I do. I spend about 45 minutes taping the car before pulling out my porter cable.

Obviously, after doing all of these things, you will be ready to learn to use a rotary, polish glass with #4, use wool pads, wet sand, et cetera. I have never done these things.

The strongest abrasive I have ever used is #83 with an 8006 on a porter cable oscillating sander. Basically, it feels like sunscreen.

Last thing, SHAKE WELL before using any Meguiars liquid except for maybe the soap. It is always beneficial to have all the chemicals in perfect solution or suspension or emulsion. I know some things separate slightly. Any abrasive like #80 #83 et cetera must be shook well too. If you do not, you risk not having perfectly even amounts of the abrasive through the product. Worst of all, you can't even feel the abrasives, but they are there.

[vettemaniac]

Wow! Great info, now I know just what to get and do. Thanks a whole lot Jbirk! I will defienately make sure to get pictures of the next car we wax, and I'll have a clay bar by then. We actually do have a bottle of cleaner wax that we accumulated from buying a small kit with things we needed. Would you recommend putting down a wax after using it, and if so, what type?

[SL1CK]

NXT Wax is nice, and I've heard good things from the Gold Class Wax also.

[Jbirk]

The steps are broken down by the previous experts into 5 steps.

I don't have a link, but basically:

1. You wash, dry, and remove the bugs.
2. Clay the car to remove bonded contaminates (This is the step you skipped previously)
3. Paint Cleaner such as Deep Crystal #1, ScratchX, et cetera.
4. Polish to enrich depth and color. I.e. #7 and Deep Crystal 2 are excellent.
5. Wax Nxt Tech, #26 Hi Tech Yellow, #16 if you can find it, Gold Class..., #20 or #21 (I have never used #20 or #21, but they are sealants or polymer based products)

Finally, you switch over to maintenance to keep the paint looking good.


Now, let me discuss the 5 steps in more detail.

1. You already know how to wash a car. Very clean wash mitt that is never dropped, 2 buckets, large volumes of water, wash mitt never touch ground or bottom of bucket. I.e. grit guard prevents this as does a collider turned upside down in the bucket. (Some people will scream at me but I don't think a grit guard is necessary just put something in the bucket) Basically, this is preventative maintenance. Use 3 to 5 gallon buckets. I like 5 gallon buckets as it is much harder to get dirt trapped in the mitt. It makes washing less damaging.

2. Clay the paint to remove stuck on contaminates. Use the mild clay such as the Quick Clay, Mild Pro Stuff, or Smooth Surface Stuff.

3. Remove Oxidation and Chemically Clean and remove swirls. This is where Deep Crystal 1 (pure) or something like ScratchX (diminishing abrasive), perhaps #9 comes in.

4. Polish with something like #7 or Deep Crystal #2. This is most awesome on dark color cars as they become deeper and darker.

5. Wax to protect/seal. This means using carnauba, or Polymer, or other sealant. It can be just about anything you want. You can layer it provided you layer with a pure wax. Waxes like cleaner wax and ColorX do not layer as they have cleaners. Waxes like Nxt Tech, Gold Class, #26, #16, and others layer well. Deep Crystal #3 that you already have layers well too.


Here is where it gets interesting.

Now that you have the 5 steps, some products do more than one step.

Washing always does step 1. Claying is always step 2.

ScratchX, #9, and Deep Crystal 1 only do Step 3 (they for the most part are only paint cleaners)

However, #80 will do both steps 3 and 4 of the process. It is a paint cleaner/swirl remover and polisher. In other words, it will remove the swirls, remove oxidation, and it will add polishing oils. (Steps 3 and Steps 4). Only thing it doesn't do is protect.


Waxes such as #26, #16, Nxt Tech Wax, and Deep Crystal #3 only protect. Sure they may have a trace amount of something in them to make them clean the paint well enough to stick, but they are mostly pure waxes. That said, they only do Step 5. Nxt Tech wax is my favorite. It looks great.


Gold Class Wax can in theory be layered and has no more cleaning ability than Nxt as far as I can tell. It appears that it has quite a bit of polishing abilities though. I.e. it seems to take the place of DC2 or #7 as well. IT appears as if Gold Class will do steps 4 and 5.


Cleaner Wax will Clean, Polish, and Protect. As will ColorX. (Steps 3, 4, and 5).


That said, you can do just about anything you want provided you do all of the steps the results should be good.

The only thing is you cannot layer a wax with a cleaner wax because it will strip the existing wax; therefore, the layer will not be any thicker.

Take for instance

Wash (step 1)
Clay (Step 2)
DC 1 (Step 3)
DC2 (Step 4)
DC3 (Step 5)

or

Wash (step 1)
Clay (Step 2)
Cleaner Wax (Step 3, Step 4, Step 5)

Or

Wash (Step 1)
Clay (Step 2)
ScratchX (Step 3)
Gold Class Wax(Step 4 and Step 5)

or

Wash (step 1)
Clay (Step 2)
ColorX (Step 3, Step 4, Step 5)

or

Wash (Step 1)
Clay (Step 2)
#80 (Step 3, Step 4)
Nxt Tech Wax (Step 5)

The list goes on and on. With the combinations you can do. Just make sure to start by washing and claying, and using some combination of products that have a cleaner, then something to polish, then a wax/sealant. Cleaners should always come before polish or wax because they strip polish and wax. Polish should always come before wax because it needs to get deep into the defects to hide them, and wax needs to seal it all in.

So far your process has been:

Wash (Step 1)
DC1 (Step 3)
DC2 (Step 4)
DC3 (Step 5)

Just adding clay to your procedure would be great.


With the products you have, to save money, I would do this.

1. Buy quick clay kit if you already have microfibers and a cleaner wax. Otherwise buy the Smooth Surface Clay Kit and get these things.

2. Using your current products and newly purchased clay:

Wash
Clay
Spot treatment of ScratchX for bird droppings and serious scratches and discolorations.
DC1 Everything including ScratchX areas
DC2
DC3

-OR-

Wash
Clay
Spot treatment with ScratchX you have
Cleaner Wax everything.


After you get comfortable with the 5 Step system and clay, it will be time to move up to a Porter Cable and #80 with W8006.


Shake everything well and experiment with different products. Basically, add a new product after every couple details you do and spend the time to learn how to get the best results from each procut. On a scale of 0 to 10, your work is about an 8 or 9.

When I was 14 years old, my work was about a 1 or 2.

You will get a perfect 10 by the time you learn to properly use a Porter Cable with #80 and #83 as needed.

At that point, you will be able to win awards at car shows. That Corvette would probably already win an award for looking better than most of the other show cars. An 8 or 9 is nothing to laugh at. Many professional detailers never do work that is better than a 5 or 6.

It is often that a professional or self-proclaimed pro will wash, then use some compound that grinds away paint and leaves swirls, then wax/polish with a product that fills. The quality of that work is a 5 or 6 for many professionals. You already are beating people who are twice your age and have been in business for 5 years.

Plan on Getting a Porter Cable G100 or 7424 in the next year if you are interested. I guarantee you will be able to win awards and charge $200 or more easy for a detail.

[The Doctor detailer]

good job on the corvette and jbirk you sure type a lot more than Mike jeeje

[vettemaniac]

Thanks again Jbirk for taking the time to write everything up for me. I'll make sure to post pictures of the next car that we do with clay and the wax we choose. I think I'll probably go with NXT tech wax, people really seem to like that.