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**Teak** · Feb 15, 2004, 04:42 PM

Where to start? Start with the least abrasive product. From what you have I would start with #4. If #4 is not producing results, try the #2. If you need to use #2 follow with #4 then #9, then #7, then #26.

What kind of orbital do you have?

Do you have any pictures of the truck and the oxidation?

Eric

**ebpcivicsi** · Feb 15, 2004, 04:48 PM

If you have never used a rotary I would personally recommend you not use it. Just my .02

I would use the orbital(is it a porter cable?) or do it by hand. For oxidation I would use (by hand or PC):

meguiars #66
medallion paint cleaner
colorX

My previous favorite of the three for hand use when dealing with oxidation is the medallion, but after using colorX and seeing what Mike did with it, that maybe the way for you to go.

Good luck!

**Mike Phillips** · Feb 17, 2004, 07:04 PM

Re: heavy oxidation

Originally posted by bigredtruck
I have a RED 1990 gmc k1500 and the hood and roof are especially bad the sides are no hell either. I have mirror glaze #4, #2 and #26. My question is I don't have a good knowledge about where to start. I know that i need a rotary buffer but what pads do you use for the different #'s. All I have is an orbital so I am looking for a rotary is there that much of a difference? Do I need #9 after or is #26 ok right after the 2 and 4. I thought that 4 would be needed on the hood and roof and 2 would be aggressive enough on the sides. Am I on the right track? Help is appreciated.
Patrick

Hi Patrick,

ebpcivicsi and 2hotford both offered some pretty good advise. I don't know your skill level, but you shouldn't learn to use the rotary buffer on something that's important to you

Does that make sense?

If you want to learn how to use a rotary buffer we have a video out for a measly $10.00 that will show you quite a bit of technique for using it.

Here's a link to a discussion on the video so you can see what others are saying about it.

https://<b>http://www.showcargarage....readid=348</b>

First question: Does this truck have a clear coat? It doesn't sound like it according to your description. This is important because contrary to common misconception, clear coats are much harder than traditional single stage finishes and therefore drastically more scratch sensitive and much less forgiving.

To test for a clear coat, apply a little of either the #2 or the #4 to a white cloth and rub on an inconspicuous area, like the lower part of a fender or door. If you're pulling off red color then you don't have a clear coat, (at least not where you tested!), if your cloth is the same color or dirty looking, then you probably have a clear coat.

If you have a clear coat then you should only apply the #2 and #4 by machine. If you have a single stage, then you can probably apply the #2 by hand with a terry cloth towel and do a pretty good job of removing the oxidation.

Follow that with a coat of the #26.

If you have a single stage, and don't mind purchasing and testing a new product, then I would recommend a trip to the auto parts stores, or stores like K-Mart, Target, Wal-Mart etc and pick up a bottle of ColorX.

It is a one-step powerful cleaner/wax that works great by hand on neglected finishes. Plus, it's a great deal at around $6.00 to $7.00 dollars a bottle.

Check out what forum member Patrick and I did in this thread, (different Patrick),

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88

Also check back here on Thursday, I will be doing another before and after to a clear coat finsih using ColorX on a black 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe.

Before shot of the front fender,

Mike

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