Tips for cleaning engine bay with exposed alternator/electrical components...

[gr8gatzby]

As you can see in my sig, I likey to takey the Volvo where no man has been before. I've sprayed down the engine bay several times, but the mud and grime stains persist. Friggin mud is everywere in every little crevice. Should I leave the engine bay cleaning to a professional or am i just not approaching it right? Thanks for any advise!

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Well, let's start with this: What is/has been your approach up to this point? It could just be that you're being more gentile than you really have to be, out of fear that you'll screw up something electrical.

There are many ways to skin a cat where engine cleaning is concerned, that alot of it comes down to what equipment you have at your disposal, and your level of comfort. I personally use a vapor-steamer to blast gunk off of engines, but I've also had to use the old "degreaser and pressure washer/garden hose" method on some really bad engines.

As far as protecting the electrical stuff, the best advice I can give you is to wrap the alternator in saran wrap and cover it with aluminum foil, and do the same for any connectors that look particularly vulnerable. Remember the stuff was designed to be water resistant (since some moisture does get in there under normal circumstances) so as long as you aren't blasting full-force water into them you shouldn't have any problems.

Oh yeah, and make sure to dry off everything as best as you can before starting the engine back up

[gr8gatzby]

thanks for the quality info! where bout's would i get a steam cleaner?

[sneek]

probably avalable at your local hardware store but i cover every thing in my engine and use a presure washer

ps: if you dont know what something is ask some one who does or just cover it if in doubt, dont want to wreck any electrical componets it could be very pricy

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by gr8gatzby
thanks for the quality info! where bout's would i get a steam cleaner?

There's a great sale on them running through costco right now that a bunch of folks over on another forum have gotten: costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?prodid=11066580&whse=&topnav=&cat=&s=1 [edited for Commercial link; 2hotford]

Otherwise check eBay, hardware stores, Sears, etc. The unit I'm using is a EuroPro Ultra Steam Shark.... which is 3-4 years old at this point.

And as sneek said, you can always use a pressure washer or hose, too.... it just uses alot more water and you have to be a bit more careful with it.

You may find even with a steamer that you'll need to hit it with some all purpose cleaner or degreaser in the worst areas. Just hit those with some Super Degreaser or EXTRA! (both Meg's products... Super Deg. is from the "Detailer" pro line, EXTRA! is available in local autoparts stores (I think they're still stocking it...)
and agitate the areas with a brush (for tight areas I use a soft bristled toothbrush), let them dwell for a minute or so, and use the steam to rinse. You'll have to blot away residues with a shop rag or cheap "throw away" MF towel after rinsing.

Don't forget to dress the engine after it's all clean, too.... this will make subsequent cleaning easier since it'll be protected from much of that dirt/mud sticking as badly. I'd recommend Hyper Dressing, or Engine Kote if you can still find any. In lieu of those, either #40 or Natural Shine should be more readily available locally.

One final note, back on the topic of drying: If you have A LOT of water you've used (with a hose or pressure washer) I've found that an electric leaf blower and/or air compressor does wonders for forcing moisture out of the cracks and crevices.

[Don]

Another thing you can do as both a cleaning/protecting step is to spray the engine compartment with WD-40 both during cleaning and immediately prior to a non-paved excursion.

During the cleaning phase, the WD-40 is also a superb degreaser that cuts through even the nastier grime build-up. Spray it liberally into electrical connections, this has the twofold benefit of getting a 'safe' cleaner into these components as well as protecting them from the water you're going to be spraying around...helps keep the stupid things from corroding and causing electrical problems down the line.

As a pre-offroading treatment, spraying WD-40 all over the place helps prevent the mud & whatever else from sticking and makes it easier to wash off.

I personally hose my engine compartment, door hinge areas, truck lid seams etc with WD-40 once or twice during the winter to prevent rust. My wife's Jeep (1996, w/98,000 miles) is a great example that this works. There is ZERO rust in the areas I've kept coated during the winter. On the other hand, the floorboards, where I haven't sprayed (undercarriage), are gone.

[goixiz]

better than just wrap

Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
Well, let's start with this: What is/has been your approach up to this point? It could just be that you're being more gentile than you really have to be, out of fear that you'll screw up something electrical.

There are many ways to skin a cat where engine cleaning is concerned, that alot of it comes down to what equipment you have at your disposal, and your level of comfort. I personally use a vapor-steamer to blast gunk off of engines, but I've also had to use the old "degreaser and pressure washer/garden hose" method on some really bad engines.

As far as protecting the electrical stuff, the best advice I can give you is to wrap the alternator in saran wrap and cover it with aluminum foil, and do the same for any connectors that look particularly vulnerable. Remember the stuff was designed to be water resistant (since some moisture does get in there under normal circumstances) so as long as you aren't blasting full-force water into them you shouldn't have any problems.

Oh yeah, and make sure to dry off everything as best as you can before starting the engine back up

Disconnect the battery and remove it. You can clean out that nasty battery tray and top of the battery liquid. and If you have a 2nd car or someone to drop your battery of to the local auto parts store to get it checked and charged.

Yes still wrap the terminals and connectors while cleaning. By the time you are done cleaning go to the auto parts place to pick up your battery and reinstall it and vroooommm of you go.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Re: better than just wrap

Originally posted by goixiz
Disconnect the battery and remove it. You can clean out that nasty battery tray and top of the battery liquid. and If you have a 2nd car or someone to drop your battery of to the local auto parts store to get it checked and charged.

Yes still wrap the terminals and connectors while cleaning. By the time you are done cleaning go to the auto parts place to pick up your battery and reinstall it and vroooommm of you go.

Well, while I do agree I think two things should be mentioned:

1) Most batteries in modern cars are sealed-cell, you do not top off any liquids in them.

2) You can purchase an adequate charger if needed for $20-50.