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KenL_BayAreaM5s
Apr 1st, 2005, 03:22 PM
I had recently written the following write-up which outlines a step by step process for detailing the under-hood area for BMW E34 M5 owners specifically, as this in one piece of something much bigger that I am currently working on. That much bigger project is a complete step by step guide for detailing an E34 M5 to Concours standards which will basically walk anyone through this rigorous process covering every possible area/aspect of the car. All of this will obviously also be applicable on basically any car so you can simply ignore the references made specifically to the M5 in the process defined below.

Additionally, substituting NXT Tech Protectant in place of M40 will yield a much glossier look when compared to the M40. I have recently tried this when detailing several other BMW M5’s but have no idea as to how long the final results will last whereas I have achieved excellent results with the M40 which have lasted for approximately eight months now on my own cars. The two different products will yield two different looks when used so you have a choice based on your own personal preference. The M40 yields a nice clean “new looking� finish where the NXT Tech Protectant yields a more glossy almost fake looking finish in comparison. Personally I prefer the look of the M40, as it basically looks clean without going overboard on the shine which always screams that just been detailed look regardless.

I’ll refrain from adding the various photos here, as all of that will be rolled out in its entirety once I have completed this rather complex project of documenting an entire process used to thoroughly detail an E34 M5 specifically. After all, I’m simply adding all of this here since the topic of detailing the under-hood area has come up once again. Hope that it is helpful to all of you out there ready and or wanting to tackle this task with either your own or customers cars as well. Its obviously a bit lengthy but I wanted to make it as self explanatory as possible so that even someone that knows little about detailing could easily follow it and achieve excellent results without the headaches and or hassles that they could possibly experience otherwise.

Regards,

Ken Little
_________________________________________________

Cleaning & Detailing an S38 and surrounding under-hood areas:

Regardless of how your under-hood area looks currently following this rather simple process will yield excellent results towards making this particular area of your E34 M5 look just as it did when the car was brand new. Obviously the actual effort put forth during this exercise will correlate directly with the actual results achieved in either direction. Therefore making the extra effort is both highly recommended and should be a priority, as you will virtually ensure your complete satisfaction with your time and effort put forth once completed.

It will come as no surprise when I mention that the majority of the products I am recommending here are those from Meguiar’s. As always I am basing this information on my own use of and complete satisfaction with when using the products mentioned here on several locally owned E34 M5’s, mine included. Therefore using other products in substitution can yield different results when used in place of those I will mention here. You are on your own here and I cannot be held responsible for anything that may then happen as a result, as I am simply sharing this based on my own individual experiences which in other cases can perhaps vary for any number of actual reasons.

**Reminder**

Please use caution when spraying water around sensitive electrical component areas such as the coil, distributor and electronic control box on driver’s side of firewall. Covering these areas and then going back to clean/detail them by hand is recommended if you are not comfortable in regard to avoiding them otherwise. Use your own best judgment here, as you may have ignition problems thereafter if water is sprayed directly into any of these sensitive electronic component areas.

Now that all of that is out of the way here is a list of what you will need to get started:

A garden hose connected to a water source preferably with warm to hot water although cold water will also work. If using hot-warm water use caution in regard to the water pressure allowed to build up in the hose, as it can cause the hose to either balloon or burst if left unattended even if only for a brief period of time. Use common sense here and you should be fine. Also the use of warm-hot water for cleaning followed by cool-cold water for rinsing will always yield the best end results for obvious reasons. Hot water obviously removes any grime or buildup more quickly in comparison.

Several soft bristle brushes such as those sold at the local auto parts retailers for cleaning wheels, etc. since they are usually about 5� square with nice handles and are quite soft preventing them from scratching any painted surfaces, etc. Also grab a 1� wide soft bristle paint brush for use in the tighter areas where the larger brush is less effective.

Meguiar’s All Purpose Cleaner is excellent for cleaning away any grime build up without any fear of damaging any component found under the hood of an E28 or E34 M5. This is sold by the gallon and can be diluted with water in varying strengths depending on what you are cleaning when using it. I have been using it in a ratio of four to one for cleaning both under-hood areas and wheel-wells, as this mixture quickly loosens any grime buildup in either area allowing it to be easily rinsed away with water. Then also using less concentrated mixtures for door jambs, etc. depending on how much cleaning is actually required.

Meguiar’s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner for adding that just detailed look to everything under the hood once it is all cleaned properly beforehand. This is sold in 16 oz. spray bottles and is readily available at most retail auto parts stores. It can also be purchased by the gallon at locations such as California Car Color http://www.californiacarcolor.com here locally in the Bay Area.

To obtain additional information and or locate a Meguiar’s retailer/Jobber in your area please visit http://www.meguiars.com, as doing so will provide you with anything else that you may happen to need or locate.

If you are also interested in removing cosmoline from the under-hood areas and motor pick up a spray bottle or two of a citrus based cleaner such as Citrus Cleaner & Degreaser from Zep Commercial or Greased Lightning’s Orange Blast, as both of these products yield excellent results when used properly. They will also quickly cut through any oil/grime that has built up as well yielding a spectacularly clean S38 and engine compartment. I found each of these products at Home Depo.

I have used both of these products and the one from Zep Commercial appears to be a bit more efficient at removing cosmoline from aluminum or non-painted surfaces when compared to Orange Blast. Either will also require some scrubbing since cosmoline becomes baked on and is not simply rinsed off as some out there seem to believe. Just as I have already mentioned your efforts put forth will directly influence your end result(s) so taking the extra time to do it right the first time is highly recommended.

Now that you have all of the needed supplies, etc. its time to get started with the project.

First, rinse the under-hood area and underside of the hood with water, a fine-medium spray and not a stream works best. This will loosen the lighter surface area grime and allow the All Purpose Cleaner to work more effectively when it is applied.

Next, using the appropriate spray bottle apply a good coating of the Meguiar’s All Purpose Cleaner to the entire under-hood area as well as the painted hood area immediately surrounding the hood liner. Also spray the painted radiator support area and hood hinges/shocks, etc. While you are at it this is also a great time to also clean the grille area around the headlights as well as inside the kidney grille area as well. Simply spraying the All Purpose Cleaner on/into these areas and then rinsing them when you rinse the rest of the area cleaned later yields excellent results. Especially when you also follow the similar process when applying the Meguiar’s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner to them later as mentioned as well. Please read the comment below just under the **Please Note** heading, as it directly pertains to the use of Meguiar’s All Purpose Cleaner on or around painted surfaces that have been either polished and or waxed.

Once you have coated the entire area to be cleaned down with the All Purpose Cleaner now go back with the soft bristle brushes and lightly agitate the areas that require a bit of extra cleaning. For the best results use the brushes over the entire area that you are cleaning, as this will then allow all of the grime and or buildup to be easily be rinsed away with water once you have completed the use of the brushes.

Now its time to thoroughly rinse the entire area that was just cleaned with the All Purpose Cleaner using water to thoroughly remove all of the cleaner and or residue removed during the process thus far. Again be sure to use a spray of water and not a stream, as it will rinse the area more thoroughly as well as limit your risk of soaking the more sensitive areas pointed out at the beginning of this detailing overview.

If you have a heavy amount of grime and or buildup to remove and or some cosmoline you’d like to also remove I would suggest using either the Citrus Cleaner & Degreaser from Zep Commercial or Greased Lightning’s Orange Blast first following the exact same process outlined just above. Simply substituting in the citrus based cleaner/degreaser where needed instead of the All Purpose Cleaner. I would however not use anything but the All Purpose Cleaner for cleaning in the outer grille and kidney grille areas simply as to not risk harming or damaging any exterior plastic areas. Read the instructions carefully on the citrus based cleaners, as they clearly state cautions in regard to not allowing them to remain on certain surfaces for too long, etc. In order to be powerful cleaners they must contain fairly strong cleansing agents which must be removed fairly quickly to eliminate the risk of damage to porous surfaces such as plastics specifically.

If you choose to follow this process and use the citrus based cleaner first I would also recommend that you then go back and use the Meguiar’s All Purpose Cleaner afterward to both neutralize and remove any remaining citrus cleaner that can become trapped in small crevices on the motor or surrounding areas. To do this, simply follow the process just as outlined above for using the All Purpose Cleaner. I mention this simply since its better to be safe than sorry and also since this will ultimately yield a cleaner finished result as well. You will be absolutely amazed at how this two-step process removes all of the grime and buildup from the firewall and strut towers all the way down to the frame rails and pan under the motor as well. It’s great to see that shiny aluminum pan under the S38 as well as the shiny heat shield that protects part of the firewall on the passenger side of the car, as most don’t realize these parts are aluminum to begin with due to the buildup covering them on most of these cars today.

Once all of the cleaning and rinsing with water is completed its time to lightly towel dry the larger surface areas under the hood of the car. Do not completely dry this area, as the next step requires the surface to be moist in order for the Meguiar’s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner to effective cover the entire surface yielding a like new finish on the entire area. Therefore simply blot the areas where water is left standing specifically in crevices and holes, etc. that do not tend to drain themselves.

Now its time to finish the project by spraying a moderate-heavy coating of Meguiar’s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner by covering the entire under-hood area as well as the grille/kidney grille (spraying it inside as well) areas to protect all of the various surfaces that have just been thoroughly cleaned prior. This product is water based and will spread throughout the under-hood area when it mixes with the remaining moisture left behind after the last rinse with water. It will not harm or discolor any of the under-hood area surfaces including those that are painted. It leaves a nice matte-gloss finish on the entire area making it all look much like it did back in the early ‘90’s when these cars were new. This also eliminates having to apply any dressing/conditioner by hand otherwise if you were to not use the Meguiar’s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner as mentioned here.

Now you are done and can simply close the hood and walk away or proceed to wash the entire car if it needs it, as the Meguiar’s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner will shortly become dissipated and dry on its own if left to do so overnight. Starting the car afterward and allowing it to slowly come up to operating temperature at idle will obviously speed this drying process up but I would not rev the motor as it could cause the #40 to be blown off of some of the surfaces yielding a more dull finish in areas.

Phase II of this project will also include polishing the raised lettering and areas on both the valve cover and intake plenum and will be one part of the overall E34 M5 detailing process which I am currently working diligently on. This will all hopefully be completed in the first couple of months of the New Year, as that should be literally perfect timing for anyone wanting to completely detail their E28 and or E34 M5 for the upcoming summer driving and ///M-car enjoyment season.

**Please Note**

Also be aware that Meguiar’s All Purpose Cleaner does remove waxes and other paint protectants from any painted surface that has been waxed, etc. Therefore use caution when spraying it and or look for areas where the paint looks more dull than usual. If you end up with dull spots or streaks where the All Purpose Cleaner has run down fenders, etc. simply go back and apply another coat of your preferred wax once you have completed this detailing project.

As you can see from this small segment of the overall detailing process I am defining for our cars specifically, you will be able to pick and choose the area(s) that you happen to want to work on at any given time. Thus allowing you to go back and work on others at a later date or whenever time permits, etc.

I hope that this is useful to anyone out there that may want to achieve an end result such as the one in the photo I have shared recently in a prior post. I’d love to see some before and after photos from others out there after their having followed this process on their own cars, as I’m sure that many will be blown away with the results that can easily be achieved in a fairly short period of time with moderate effort.

Regards,

Ken Little
http://bayaream5s.com

’91 M5 Mauritius Blue
’91 M5 Alpine White

Mike Phillips
Apr 1st, 2005, 06:47 PM
and I thought I typed a lot!

Thanks Ken for the informative post. Looking forward to the completed article with the before and after photos.

Regardless, very well written how-to article with plenty of detail to help illustrate the nuts and bolts of engine detailing.

:xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs :xyxthumbs

scrub
Apr 1st, 2005, 07:35 PM
YES!!! :bounce :db: :bow

Lt1Corvette
Apr 1st, 2005, 07:57 PM
Wow. A lot of good information there.

rusty bumper
Apr 2nd, 2005, 01:24 AM
Nice article!

I'll have to copy & paste it for myself......

KenL_BayAreaM5s
Apr 3rd, 2005, 08:54 PM
Mike:

Thanks for the support. My objective was to write this in a manner that was more than a brief overview and thus allow others to both read and understand all of this whether they are a professional detailer or a complete rookie to detailing in general. This obviously required covering everything down to the most granular details so that even the newer detailers could tackle this task with as much confidence as possible.

It obviously appears as though we both tend to type a bit here. ;-)

To the others that have also replied this far I will simply mention that I’m glad that my documentation of this was appreciated. That’s exactly why I went ahead and shared it here, as it helps only one person out there it was well worth writing in my opinion regardless. Thanks.

Now for a few photos and a bit of a follow up:

Since a post or write-up like this also needs some visual documentation as well I’ve just uploaded/included a few of the after shots of each of my ’91 E34 M5’s. This will help to bring the results to life in regard to what you can expect when following the process I have already outlined here. Unfortunately I did not shoot any of the typical before photos mainly due to the fact that neither of these cars had been touched under the hood in regard to any form of detailing since they were new. I was actually embarrassed every single time that I had opened the hood of either car prior to completing the under-hood detailing's as documented here just above.

After covering every other possible aspect of each of these cars in regard to cleaning/detailing I had been quite reluctant to clean and or detail the under-hood areas since there is much concern of water/moisture causing damage to the various electrical components, etc. Considering that these motors are quite literally tuned on the ragged edge from the factory any moisture in the under-hood electronics could quite possibly lead to some serious problems. When a stock S38 rebuild costs around $16K on average its obviously better to err on the side of caution just as I had done for roughly five years since buying each of these cars. However, all cars today are quite waterproof under the hood and have been for a number of years now. Regardless the urban legends live on where many like myself had somehow feared that the worst could happen if you were to take a hose to the motor and its incorporated electronics, etc.

Well, as you can see from the photos just below all of the effort, etc. was worth it when the detailing task(s) was/were completed. Lifting the hoods on these cars is now no longer an embarrassing situation. Go figure…

Two freshly detailed E34 M5 under-hood areas:

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_001.jpg

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_002.jpg

The Mauritius Blue M5 looking sweet under the hood. This however there was a bit of remaining cosmoline (also visible in photos) that has become literally baked on to the valve cover over the years and virtually impossible to remove at this point. Rather than risking any potential damage to the original black powder coating on the valve cover I opted to leave well enough alone when attempting to remove the dreaded cosmoline. Considering that this car was one of only eleven US E34 M5’s produced in this color and one of only two such cars with the black leather interior I’ll take the safe route and live with the remaining cosmolene rather than risk any potential damage to the underlying surfaces.

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_003.jpg

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_004.jpg

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_005.jpg

The Alpine White M5 also looking sweet after following the complete process defined here already including the use of the recommended citrus cleaner (Zep Commercial) to remove the pesky cosmoline. Well, as much as possible that it sine it almost always becomes all but impossible at some point to actually remove all of it from the painted surfaces especially. The remaining cosmoline on the raised lettering and surrounding accent areas was not of concern since the next step was to remove it during the polishing of these raised areas as shown in the last two photos below.

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_006.jpg

Now that’s the end result that I initially set out to obtain, as polishing the raised lettering and areas surrounding it really accented the entire under-hood area very nicely. The actual polishing process will follow a bit later, as it is yet another piece of my more comprehensive overall Concours detailing process/documentation that I’m currently working on.

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_007.jpg

http://bayaream5s.com/Underhood_Detailing_Photos_for_Meguiars_Online/Underhood-Detailing-MO_008.jpg

Regards,

Ken Little

Atterspug106gti
Apr 6th, 2005, 07:17 AM
thats a great write up there!!

When spraying with the dressings following cleaning, is it advisable to wipe with a terry cloth after washing the remainder of the car, or will the products dry streak free??

Will it depend on which product you use as to how they are best applied & finished?

e.g. hyper dressing and the #40?:confused:

scrub
Apr 6th, 2005, 04:29 PM
Mike,

Please make this a sticky sir.

quikzilver
Oct 3rd, 2005, 11:02 AM
Doesn't Meguiars have something in a smaller size for the average consumer user. A gallon of APC is too much (don't forget too expensive) for me.

In the car detailing video, starring our guru Barry M :bow , it shows the EXTRA STRONG All Surface Cleaner in a nice 16 oz. spraybottle. This would be the perfect product for me. Doesn't Meguiars sell this product anymore? If not, is there a replacement product (besides APC)?

Please advise.

Mike Phillips
Oct 3rd, 2005, 11:11 AM
Originally posted by quikzilver
Doesn't Meguiar's have something in a smaller size for the average consumer user. A gallon of APC is too much (don't forget too expensive) for me.

In the car detailing video, starring our guru Barry M :bow , it shows the EXTRA STRONG All Surface Cleaner in a nice 16 oz. spray bottle. This would be the perfect product for me. Doesn't Meguiar's sell this product anymore? If not, is there a replacement product (besides APC)?

Please advise.

Extra has been discontinued and nothing has really been introduced to take its place. You can get sample sizes from Rick over at AutoDetailingSolutions.com

Chris Nemlich
Oct 3rd, 2005, 12:12 PM
A gallon of APC only costs about $15 and is the best money you will ever spend. I currently own 3 gallons and use it detailing, cleaning the house, and even cleaning my chemistry lab at school. The stuff is absolutely amazing.

Superior Shine
Oct 3rd, 2005, 12:35 PM
Great write up. Now I need an BMW M something --

Teak
Oct 3rd, 2005, 02:29 PM
Nice write-up.

Eric

quikzilver
Oct 5th, 2005, 12:58 AM
When looking on the Meguiars Site, there are 3 products for engine bay cleaning in the Detailer brand line:

-All Purpose Cleaner
-Safe D-Greaser
-Super Degreaser

I am sure, all of these products work, but which would you recommend for using on a 2 year old car (ran 60.000 km)? It is not, that there are big chunks of oil and dirt, but the engine just looks not clean.

Please advise

Jeff Brown
Oct 5th, 2005, 05:19 AM
All are great options. If you would like to take the least aggressive approach like Meguiar's recomemends, I would use All Purpose Cleaner 4:1. It works great at dissolving grease, and more importantlyin your situation road grime. It rinses clean without leaving any white residue behind. Great for door jambs and wheel wells too.

Hope that helps
JB:coolgleam

Hyper Dressing mixed 4:1 is probably the best engine dressing I have ever used. Spray it over the motor after you have rinsed the degreaser off. It will play well with water.

Mike Phillips
Oct 5th, 2005, 07:24 PM
Creating a thread with a lot of pictures and commentary takes a long time. We always appreciate it anytime a forum member takes their time wade through their photos, pick the right ones, crop them, resize them, rename them, upload them into a gallery and then create a thread and insert them. I can speak from first hand experience this takes a lot of time, energy and work to do.


http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/22womanspraying.gif

I've removed a couple off-topic posts per our forum rules, Meguiar's Forum Rules (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3080)

Let's everyone work at keeping this thread focused on the discussion of engine detailing.

Thank you! :)

dino
Oct 8th, 2005, 08:58 AM
Heres mine as of today's detail session :D

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/7071/dscn2594i4ab.jpg

sneek
Oct 8th, 2005, 03:32 PM
Wow thats really nice
im about to clean my accord but im waiting to buy meguiars naural shine my local canadian tire is out of stock

sneek
Oct 8th, 2005, 03:34 PM
Wow thats really nice

1998Stang
Oct 19th, 2005, 02:37 AM
Hello everyone!

Glad to be able to join you on these forums! I'm a new Meguiars user, and found this site based on a search for engine detailing.

The write-up was very nice, but what would you suggest to use to cover up areas that you don't want to get wet? For my 1998 Mustang (engine has never been cleaned before), I was thinking of covering up the "distributor", the air intake, and the fuse box with aluminum foil.

Some questions:

Would it be advisable to disconnect the battery first?

Would aluminum foil work?

Would the #40 Vinyl and Rubber cleaner have any negative effects on the serpentine belt? (e.g. make it slippery)

Also, the engine should be cold before you spray it, right?




All best,
Joe

rusty bumper
Oct 19th, 2005, 05:42 AM
Hi 1998Stang!......Welcome to the forum. :wavey

I'm not an expert on engine detailing, but I don't think the belt manufacturers would recommend applying any kind of dressing to the outside a drive belt.

Murr1525
Oct 19th, 2005, 06:41 AM
Hello,

Aluminum foil is good for areas that need molded around.. Just watch electical connections if you start the engine... might want to remove the foil if you need to start the engine. Plastic bags work fine for other areas.

The battery should be OK connected, and dont get foil across the terminals.

I wouldnt go about dressing the belt... I wouldnt worry about a little overspray or a drip, but not directly applying. Dont want to add any slickness.

The engine need not be stone cold. Just mildly warm can make things easier to remove. You dont want it so hot that it dries the liquid onto the surface, just mildly warm.

1998Stang
Oct 20th, 2005, 02:29 AM
Thank you, Murr and Rusty!


As I have been reading back and forth through these Forums, I have indeed been noticing what you guys have been doing.

I guess I should have read through all the posts before posting my questions! :o

I see that I'm not the only one here who is a little nervous about spraying liquids around under the hood, and that makes me feel a bit better! :xyxthumbs

I'll spend the next few days reading everything on these Forums. My compliments to everyone who has done such a great detailing job on their cars! It's really inspiring.


All best and thanks again,
Joe

sneek
Oct 21st, 2005, 01:30 PM
quick question
can i use meguiars natural shine on the plastic top part of the engine the engine or should i just use it on the hoses?
(detaler line not avalable in canada)

rusty bumper
Oct 21st, 2005, 04:21 PM
Originally posted by sneek
quick question
can i use meguiars natural shine on the plastic top part of the engine the engine or should i just use it on the hoses?
(detaler line not avalable in canada)
I've used it on tires before, and the dash of a car can get pretty hot, so I don't think it would be a problem using it under the hood.

Just my opinion here.

quikzilver
Oct 22nd, 2005, 06:46 AM
What would be the best product to use on the damping "carpet" that is attached on the inside of the bonnet? Products that come to mind are All Purpose Cleaner and Carpet & Interiour Cleaner. The "carpet" is made of pressed fibers and has a black finish on the visible side. I am not gone rub it, since it will probably damage the carpet. Neither would it be a smart thing to get this thing soaking wet, since this will damage the structure. The thing does not get realy dirty, but it grays out over time.

Any suggestions?