PDA

View Full Version : Chrysler specific headlight hints/tips



DEZERTSUB
Aug 24th, 2011, 12:44 PM
I've been having difficulty removing the clear protective coating from Chrysler/Jeep vehicles, which is the main reason any Chrysler vehicle has crappy looking headlamps. Working on a PT Cruiser right now, and getting the lens itself immaculate is cake (Using Meguiars Heavy Duty Headlight kit), it's getting the old protective coating off that's getting to me. Would using a strong solvent like acetone help me get that stuff off without damaging the integrity of the plastic that is the headlamp lens? Been going after it with 600 wetsand, and it's working, but it's just taking too long. Tempted to try lighter fluid, acetone, mineral spirits, even paint stripper (but can't screw up this customer vehicle). Curious to see if anyone else has any solutions for this to make the process simpler and faster.

If no one chimes in, on my next trip to the junkyard I'm gonna buy several old Chrysler headlights and try different things until I can determine what works the best with no damage to the lens. Yes, I will share my results.

Innovative Detailing
Aug 24th, 2011, 07:30 PM
My advise is to stay away from the "Chems"......they will do your customers lenses more damage than good.

What you need to do is take your level of resurfacing disc's down using the following Meguiar's "Unigrit" grades.....you need more bite in your initial cut to level off that failed OEM UV coating.

320>500>800>1000>3000 then polish or recoat.

DEZERTSUB
Aug 25th, 2011, 08:32 AM
You want me to sand a headlight with 320????

Yeah, right.

David, did you not see the last paragraph of my post? I'm gonna try some different chemicals on throw away lenses. You know, I'm gonna be "innovative" and look for new solutions and other viable options.

juliom2
Aug 25th, 2011, 08:40 AM
Go for the 320........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And of course the rest to follow...........Scottwax2
You will be amaized with David's innovative technique......
Good luck, have fun............
:hotrod2

Innovative Detailing
Aug 25th, 2011, 10:13 AM
Thats how its done.....start off with 500 first....if it doesnt cut it then drop down a grade.

Good luck in your attemps....been doing this for years now and I have restored over 500 sets. IMO there is only one way to do this type of service in which you get results that look as clear as a CD case when your done.

Invest in a Meguiar's Professional Headlight Repair Kit and you cant go wrong........everything you need (Except the compressor) to get the job done right the first time. Then if you decide to recoat down the road you have that option to offer this.

Here is a PT we recently did.....

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/Havasulvr/HLR Chrysler PT Cruiser/DSC_1210-1.jpg
http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/Havasulvr/HLR Chrysler PT Cruiser/DSC_0006-1-1.jpg

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/Havasulvr/HLR Chrysler PT Cruiser/DSC_1215.jpg
http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/Havasulvr/HLR Chrysler PT Cruiser/DSC_0010-1.jpg

http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/Havasulvr/HLR Chrysler PT Cruiser/DSC_1216.jpg
http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k448/Havasulvr/HLR Chrysler PT Cruiser/DSC_0009-1.jpg



Started off with 320
Finished off with 3000

Recoated

BTW if you think these are a tough coating, wait till you get your hands on a set of 996 lenses......tough as nails!

JoeDirt
Aug 25th, 2011, 10:17 AM
Agreed- why would you so easily disregard the advice of someone that does it for a living?

Jumper09
Aug 25th, 2011, 11:35 AM
I also had the same problem with the PT Cruiser. I did one last year about this time and I started with 800 but had to drop to 400 to get the level of cut I needed. after that, the rest was a breeze. I also noticed, This is my aunts car, that this year some of the yellow has come back. I don't know if this was my fault by not putting on enough sealer or what but now I have to touch them up again. Just something for you guys to look out for. I have also notice that some of the other cars I've done are still clear after about a year and a half. Thanks.

Michael Stoops
Aug 25th, 2011, 12:47 PM
You want me to sand a headlight with 320????

Yeah, right.Yes, totally and completely right. Don't be so quick to dismiss the advice of a seasoned pro like David. Our Professional Headlight & Spot Repair Kit comes with 320 grit sanding discs, specifically for use on headlights when they're really bad. Have a look at this thread (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?38703-Using-Meguiar-s-New-Pro-Headlight-amp-Spot-Repair-Kit) for proper use of the kit and sanding headlights in general.


David, did you not see the last paragraph of my post? I'm gonna try some different chemicals on throw away lenses. You know, I'm gonna be "innovative" and look for new solutions and other viable options. We're with David on this, too. Any solvent that's going to be potent enough to remove the coating is likely going to be potent enough to damage the lenses, too. Plus, it's going to be a lot messier than sanding and, well, we'd hate to see what a solvent strong enough to remove that protective coating might do to the surrounding paint should any get on it. Besides, why go out and buy a bunch of unproven chemicals, dig through a junk yard pulling lenses, etc when there's a solid, proven, repeatable process right at your fingertips? We're all for experimenting, but sometimes it's not worth the time, effort and energy.

Canada
May 24th, 2015, 09:16 AM
You want me to sand a headlight with 320????

Yeah, right.

David, did you not see the last paragraph of my post? I'm gonna try some different chemicals on throw away lenses. You know, I'm gonna be "innovative" and look for new solutions and other viable options.

the entire purpose of sanding is to remove defects.... the lenses are super thick 320 wont hurt anything

im super new to this and to so quickly dismiss someones advice and insist on using chemicals that can leach into the plastic is not smart thinking. to each his own though