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JeepZJlover
Nov 16th, 2004, 05:49 PM
Howdy all i have a 96 grand cherokee and the headlights look awful and i was just wondering if theres a certain process on how to remove the yellow crud. [edited by: 2hotford :)]

superswamper
Nov 16th, 2004, 05:55 PM
I personally haven't used it yet, but I've heard good things about
http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_g123.gif

gman39120
Nov 16th, 2004, 06:18 PM
I have read posts of people actually using fine grade sandpaper followed by polishing with different products to bring back the clarity. If they were real bad, I would purchase some new ones depending on how much $$$ they were or perhaps searching a salvage yard for some in better condition that might require less cleaning if any.

Chris Nemlich
Nov 17th, 2004, 02:00 AM
It would be helpful if you could post some pictures of the problem.

For normal hazy headlights PlastX does an amazing job of clearing them up.

Chris

Mike Phillips
Nov 17th, 2004, 04:04 AM
Originally posted by JeepZJlover
Howdy all i have a 96 grand Cherokee and the headlights look awful and i was just wondering if theres a certain process on how to remove the yellow crud. [edited by: 2hotford :)]

Hi JeepZJlover,

Pick up a bottle of PlastX (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=G-123) and apply with a piece of terry cloth towel.

http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_g123.gif

If you look carefully at this motorcycle windshield, you will see a spot that is clear while the rest of the windshield is hazy looking. I sanded this windshield down with #2000 grit wet-sanding paper and then polished a small area crystal clear using ScratchX and a piece of terry cloth for my applicator.

ScratchX works great for removing defects and restoring clarity.

Mike

Tim Lingor
Nov 17th, 2004, 04:55 AM
Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Hi JeepZJlover,

Pick up a bottle of PlastX (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?sku=G-123) and apply with a piece of terry cloth towel.

http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/images/product_g123.gif

If you look carefully at this motorcycle windshield, you will see a spot that is clear while the rest of the windshield is hazy looking. I sanded this windshield down with #2000 grit wet-sanding paper and then polished a small area crystal clear using ScratchX and a piece of terry cloth for my applicator.

ScratchX works great for removing defects and restoring clarity.

Mike

Mike,

The motorcycle windshield is sooooo clear, I can not even see it in your thread!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :spot

Sorry Buddy, could not resist!!! :D

Tim

TOGWT
Nov 17th, 2004, 05:23 AM
~One man’s opinion / observations~

Application Methodology:
·Use a plastic polish Meguiar’s PlastX or Renovo Plastic Cleaner
·Plastic Cleaners can be used to clean and condition Perspex as well as flexible plastic but is not suitable for use on glass.
·Prior to application of a plastic polish ensure that the surface is clean and free from dust particles by washing with a soft cloth and warm water.
·It is not advisable to use cleaning detergents on plastic.
·Shake the bottle thoroughly. Plastic polish can be hand or machine applied
·Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (LC White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator
·Place a small dab (about ½-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator.
·Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4)
·Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern.
·Continue polishing until all the polish is gone
·Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel
·Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process i2-3 times as necessary

Plastic polish will not remove clarity defects that are within the plastic but it will remove external/surface scratching and oxidation (yellowing)

I prefer to use a polishing method before turning to 'wet-sanding'

~Hope this helps~

Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM

Mike Phillips
Nov 17th, 2004, 06:01 AM
Originally posted by 2hotford
Mike,

The motorcycle windshield is sooooo clear, I can not even see it in your thread!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :spot

Sorry Buddy, could not resist!!! :D

Tim

Whoops! Here it is,

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2RemovingScratcheswithPlastX.jpg

Note the time I posted that, 6:04am,, I was in a hurry as I was heading out the door... I'm actually going to snag a better picture today that will better show the ability of this product.

Mike

scrub
Nov 17th, 2004, 05:42 PM
Here's a pic of what PlastX can do. Of course your results may vary since some of the haze may be located on the inside of the light housing. This will limit your access to both sides of the lens.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/694DSC019421-med.JPG

Good luck! I think this pic is getting worn out, but the product works as advertised.

JeepZJlover
Nov 17th, 2004, 06:35 PM
I really truly think mine are bad enough that im going to have to do the wet sanding method. Any body have any instructions on how to go about doing that.

TOGWT
Nov 18th, 2004, 07:10 AM
Plastic Lighting Restoration - A Guide to... GSRstilez

http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38972&highlight=cleaning+headlights

~Hope this helps~

JonM

Tim Lingor
Nov 19th, 2004, 04:55 AM
Hey,

Be REAL careful what plastic you sand!!! As I have mentioned in posts before, some factory headlights have a coating on them. This coating does not respond well to sanding!! Trust me on this one!! Do a test spot in a hidden area. If the plastic starts to turn white, and does not respond to polishing, do not sand the lenses. Instead, use PlastX and buff them thoroughly.

Just IMHO! :)

Tim

JeepZJlover
Nov 27th, 2004, 06:53 PM
Here i finally got this headlight done heres a pic sorry its not very good my cameras cheap and catches to much light glare. And 2hotford just for the record i think i actually just sanded that coating you speak of off. Is it kinda like a clear coat.
http://image18.webshots.com/18/9/53/39/223395339xvIVfn_ph.jpg

Tim Lingor
Nov 27th, 2004, 08:45 PM
Hey,

The light looks great!!! :) If it had the coating, you would have found white blotchy spots as you wore through. I believe it is a UV film, that does look like clear coat. Sometimes, it can be polished back-off; other times, it can not. But if the lights were that bad, then any improvement is still an improvement! :)

Tim

Vicman17
Jan 12th, 2005, 05:44 PM
Originally posted by 2hotford
Hey,

Be REAL careful what plastic you sand!!! As I have mentioned in posts before, some factory headlights have a coating on them. This coating does not respond well to sanding!! Trust me on this one!! Do a test spot in a hidden area. If the plastic starts to turn white, and does not respond to polishing, do not sand the lenses. Instead, use PlastX and buff them thoroughly.

Just IMHO! :)

Tim

Looks to me like they coat it with an acrylic like substance. I've seen it on a scratched safety goggle that I used ScratchX on. It removed the scratches but it also took off this "film".

Buellwinkle
Jan 12th, 2005, 08:56 PM
I've polished a lot of plastic as I used to do a lot of polyester finish repair on pianos and polished keytops. What I used is my faithful Makita rotary but instead of using the flat part of a foam or wool pad like you would use on a large flat paint finish, I used the edge of a loose 10" cotton wheel (it looks like a metal polishing wheel but those are stiched, for plastic polishing they are loose or unstiched) and plastic rouge. You have to move quickly as the slightest heat build up can distort/melt the plastic and set the rotary buffer at the slowest settings. You will be amazed as to what that can do. For those that already have a rotary this is a small investment (about $10 for a good wheel and rogue is also cheap). Here's what the wheels look like -

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/loose.jpg

Here's what the rouge looks like -

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/buffin2.jpg

Tim Lingor
Jan 12th, 2005, 09:32 PM
Hey Buellwinkle

Thanks for the tip!

I know the green rouge is for stainless, the jewelers rouge--silver/gold, etc... Which bar do you use for plastic?

Tim

Buellwinkle
Jan 12th, 2005, 09:53 PM
Blue is recomended for polishing plastic. I would use white for cutting. Like Mike always says, use the least aggresive material that will do the job. Just like a bench mounted buffing machine, you dress the wheel with rouge and then polish lightly, let the rouge do the work. Like any buffing pad, use a different pad with different rouges.

I get my stuff from piano parts supply houses but here's a place on the net that has fairly inexpensive pads (I think they were 2 for $11).

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html

Tim Lingor
Jan 12th, 2005, 10:03 PM
Hey,

Again, thanks for the tip. I will have to try that out!! :)

Tim

FlaresideLariat
Jan 13th, 2005, 03:02 PM
Here's a tip that might save you some money.

If you have a PC, take some of your polish (Or maybe even PlastX) onto your polishing pad and polish your lights. My lights haven't got that yellow haze but it makes them clearer.

JeepZJlover
Jan 13th, 2005, 04:41 PM
i just recently got an idea on how to restore the clear crud [edited for langauge] on the head light and whatever little scratches i put in it filled i went and got deft wood finish with a brush and just aplied it to the lights its been on there for about 2 months now or whenever i started this post i had gotten this idea off the jeep forums that i love so much. Im sure your thinking im nuts but it really works very well.