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tn350z
Oct 2nd, 2004, 08:05 AM
I found what appears to be probable water spots under my tech wax on my new red 350z. Today I will try out my new pc first using the crystal clear cleaner, then cc polish and then the tech wax with another coat tomorrow. Would this be proper? Also what are the feelings out there in regards to the use of the California duster and the use of a quality car cover for outside day use? My goal is to really keep the car's appearence in top condition. Any thoughts or suggestions? I have never used the pc before, can I get into trouble and screw up a new car's paint job?

rdarwa
Oct 2nd, 2004, 02:22 PM
I think you should be fine in the direction you are taking. I start out washing with NXT, then clay if the surface feels rough, then I use the DC polish, and then NXT wax.

I have a CD and use it on my VETTE with no problems.

I have a car cover on my VETTE and 4runner from Covercraft. I love them and wouldn't buy anything else.

I hope this helps. I think everyone is out waxing today. :D

Mike Phillips
Oct 2nd, 2004, 08:35 PM
Hi tn350z,

Tentatively, I have an extreme makeover scheduled for Wednesday, October 6th starting at 9:00am

Perhaps you can swing by and we'll take a look at your finish?

Mike

Chris Nemlich
Oct 3rd, 2004, 04:26 AM
tn350z,

Regarding your question about the PC...As far as I know the PC is pretty much fool-proof. As long as you stick to the polishing pad and finishing pad and used products meant to be used by hand or with the PC (not rotary products). You should be fine.

The PC doesn't spin as fast as a rotary and therefore doesn't generate the high temperatures. Because of this, you will not be able to burn the paint using a PC.

I would highly suggest adding the G-100A (http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_detail.cfm?parentURL=index_pro.cfm&sku=G-100) to your collection!

Good luck!

:xyxthumbs

Chris

Superior Shine
Oct 3rd, 2004, 07:54 PM
tn350z,

I am not familiar with Meguiars retail line so I can't comment on their retail products.

Do start with a fine cleaner. Hopefully the "defect" is just superficial and is a stain on the surface of your finish. If a fine cleaner doesn't work then a below surface defect is possible.

Here is a pic of hard water etching. This is where the defect has "eaten" into the finish.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/184water_spot_etching1-med.jpg

If you can meet up with Mike he will help you diagnosis your problem.

As far as the "duster", here is a pic of a black BMW that had the "duster" used on it. It is now in the trash. (the duster not the car)

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/184ccduster-med.jpg

The PC is pretty easy to use but if used improperly you will get less than satisfactory results. If you do mess up your paint with a PC it will probably be pretty easy to fix so go for it!

Scottwax
Oct 4th, 2004, 12:27 PM
Try washing down your paint first with water and vinegar. I've found that using vinegar (normally I add 1 pint per gallon) will remove the hard water spots and save you from heavy polishing or claying. Heavy spotting may require up to 50/50 ratio of water to vinegar. You will need to rewax, even if all the hard water stains are removed. You should also try to find the source of the spotting, usually it is someone's sprinkler system. If you don't figure out where you are getting the spotting, you risk having it happen over and over.

I don't know about the consumer line's ability to remove hard water spots, but #80 Speed Glaze works very well. It also finishes down nicely enough you can go straight to your last step product. #80 and NXT are a great 2 step combination.

If you only use a California Car Duster to remove light dust accumulation and don't apply any pressure, they are pretty safe. Where people get in trouble with them (like in the picture Joe posted), is that they try to clean dirty cars with them and bear down pretty hard. I've used mine for years with no problems because I accept the limited use it has and don't try to get it to clean more than it is capable of. I also always follow with a quick detail spray.

IMO, car covers should only be used if the vehicle is being stored in an area where it is likely to get sap, bird bombs and other hazards dropped on the paint regularly. I have a customer with a limo and the car cover they use has scuffed the paint with its seams deeply enough that polishing won't remove them.

A PC is an outstanding tool and has a very quick learning curve.